Captiva

I need to determine the appropriate size of the bit required to re-cut the injector seat when replacing the injector seals. The vehicle in question is a 2010 Mercedes E class with a 3.0 litre V6 engine. Thank you very much

For some unknown reason, on the icarsoft CR Max, there is a presence of SBC information under the EPB menu. There are on-screen directions detailing what actions to take. However, similar to the last situation, I neglected to follow any of those suggestions. A conventional pressure bleeder functioned effectively.

A malfunctioning exhaust bracket might result in a resonant buzzing noise.

The appearance is impressive, despite the use of filtered pictures. It is really remarkable.

A CLK refers to a W203 model. If the CLK is equipped with the standard Thermomatic temperature control system, it will only have one active charcoal filter located in the engine bay. However, if it has the (rare) Thermotronic climate control system, it will have an extra filter situated within the cabin, namely beneath or below the glove box. The Datacard will indicate the specific system installed in your automobile.

...and Knecht.

Which do you prioritise more - a fully operational AdBlue system or keeping the remap? If you choose the older NOx sensors, they are less dependable and will fail earlier or again, but they do not need updated software. However, they are less reliable compared to the newer NOx sensors, which do require a software update.

If an engine or engine module has undergone remapping, when connected to an MB diagnostic system, the screen will display a flashing red indicator or similar signal, indicating the presence of a remap. If you have just installed the newest versions of NOx sensors, it is necessary to load updated software into the Engine ECU. This task can only be performed by authorised dealers, and maybe by an independent technician who has a full MB STAR membership.

We drive on the other side of the road.

The image shows a seam sealant called "moudling" applied to the inner arch to prevent chipping and corrosion. It is painted over during the manufacturing process. There is a problem and it has been tainted. I would be amazed if it's an aftermarket fix since aftermarket body shops often do not re-seal seams in that manner.

I couldn't locate a dipstick of the appropriate length that remains in the vehicle. The current one is too long, but I now know where the full mark is. I agree that the design is quite impractical, particularly as substantial disassembly is required before inserting the dipstick.

As far as I know, there is no certain dipstick designated as "correct." The dipstick does not fully insert and remain in the tube like the om642 one. Therefore, you must determine the entire mark position on your own.

The optimal approach is to empty the sump via the drain plug, replenish it with the appropriate amount of oil, and then check the oil level on the dipstick to determine the exact level.

Standing in front of my C43 and 5.0 E500 cars, you would hear significant drive belt whining sounds, but the muffled V8 audio only becomes noticeable beyond 4k. The 5.0 engine has a long-travel throttle and lacks the immediate torque characteristic of a diesel engine. The 5.5 overcomes that issue; when you lightly press the throttle at low engine rpm, it accelerates quickly. It has much greater power than the 5.0 engine over the whole range of revolutions. It reduces the 0-60 time by over a second and the 0-100 time by two seconds. When comparing acceleration times from 0-100 for 5.0, 5.5, and 5.5k, they are around 13.5s, 11.5s, and 9.5s respectively. The 5.5 is positioned nearly precisely midway between the other two in terms of performance. An E500/CLS500 is more akin to a mini-S Class in terms of character rather than an AMG, as discussed in previous forums. If the AMG is equivalent to an RS6, then the E500 might be compared to the S6. You would get a somewhat newer 500 and/or one with less miles per unit of weight if that is significant to you. A few years ago, I found that an E63 was around 25-30% more expensive than an identical E500, considering vehicles of the same age with similar mileage. I would choose a well-maintained version of either a 5.5 or 55K model with a comprehensive service record. It is beneficial to have evidence of maintenance done on the Airmatic system, SBC pump, gearbox flushes, ball joints, and recent disc replacements. Some are treated luxuriously, while others are neglected, and by making wise purchases, you may save spending thousands on upkeep.

Disregard me

As the title suggests. After reading extensively and seeing several evaluations, my mind is now clouded.

5w - 30 completely synthetic oil is OK. Did you use Mobil 1 to refill? Not sure of your expertise in engine oils, so please forgive me if I'm mentioning something you already know. There are three primary types: Fully Synthetic, Semi Synthetic, and Mineral. Manufacturers often suggest fully synthetic oil for its superior protection and ability to lengthen service intervals. There are two varieties of Fully Synthetic oil for diesel engines: one for engines with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) that requires low-ash oil, and another for cars without a DPF that is also good for petrol engines. If you are uncertain about whether your vehicle has a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) installed, provide your 17-digit VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) located on the bottom left side of the windscreen and on the sticker attached to the driver's door 'B' post. Someone will then examine the data card for you. Your mechanic will likely be able to inform you. This page may clarify the selection of MB Approved lubricants for your automobile.

The guidebook does not include capacity, however the USA models should have the same specifications. You may get a UK version on eBay. You may visit one of the oil producers' websites to get the amounts you need. Simply input your registration number, and they will provide you with the capacity. The link provided is: http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search Select the appropriate oil for your vehicle. Shell LubeMatch is a service provided by Shell in the United Kingdom.

You may safely add a further 0.5 litres to reach a total level of 6.3.

Have you considered trying the service mode? It is far more precise than waiting for the phrase "Add Oil" to appear. Refer to the information provided below: Procedure for Checking Oil. Caution: Allow the car to rest for about 5 - 10 minutes after the engine has been running before beginning this operation. 1. Ensure that the display in your cluster is set to the default Mileage and Trip distance, then switch off the ignition. 2. Proceed to position 1 3. Quickly press the 'Reset' push button located on the far left side of the instrument cluster 3 times. The device will emit a sound and display the battery's voltage. 4. Rotate the ignition key clockwise from position 1 to position 2. Press the 'Up Arrow' on the left side of the steering wheel one time. It should display 'Oil level _._l' in the middle display area. Wait about 10 seconds for the oil reading to occur. The measurement will be shown in litres. It is optimal to maintain the level between 6 and 6.3 litres in a C220 CDI. The capacity is 6.5 litres. It is advisable to maintain the level slightly below the maximum to avoid triggering a "Remove Oil" notice

The original poster may have made a mistake by suggesting to the local dealer that the issue existed from the beginning and that the providing dealer recommended resolving it under the Australian warranty. Dealers dislike this situation when certain dealers provide insufficient Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) and then attempt to pass the issue on to other dealers. The amount the OP was charged could have been a punitive cost. If the OP had just brought the vehicle with the defect and not provided the background narrative, the dealer may have prioritised earning a new client for future services above resolving the issue with the supplier dealer.

If someone suggests that you should have stopped the repair after learning it wasn't covered by warranty and contacted them instead to pay your local dealer directly, you can respond by saying that no one instructed you to do so.

"What are my rights after 30 days?"If an issue arises within 30 days and six months after purchase, you are eligible to ask for a repair or a replacement car. The seller of the automobile must establish that the issue did not exist when the car was sold. If they can do so and it is probable that you were aware of the fault, you will not get a refund. Requesting a new vehicle in this situation would have been excessive, however you should definitely seek reimbursement for the repair costs from the providing dealer, since they advised you to take the car to your local dealer. I would recommend sending an email to the company stating that you followed their advice and had the car inspected by your local dealer. The repair needed was not covered by warranty, and you are requesting a refund for the cost as they are responsible for the repair under the Consumer Protection Act 2015. Attached is the repair bill for reference.

a. They are only permitted to charge you an inspection fee if you have given prior consent. It is probable that you signed certain papers when you rented the automobile, and the fine print may include an inspection price. Request a copy if you have signed any documents. If you did not provide your signature, you are entitled to request a refund as you should have been given prior notice on the possible expenses. If you made a payment using a Credit Card and the dealer is unwilling to cooperate, you may request a refund from the Credit Card issuer after attempting to resolve the matter with the dealer. If a vehicle was bought within the last 6 months and a defect appears within this time, it is presumed to have been present at the time of purchase until proved otherwise. According to the Consumer Rights Act 2015, the dealer must repair the issue at no cost to the consumer. You may still make a claim under this section after the first 6-month term has ended if you can demonstrate that you reported the matter to the dealer before the initial 6-month period elapsed. This issue is not related to the manufacturer's warranty but rather to consumer protection laws. Therefore, it is only a problem between you and the dealer who sold you the product. No other Mercedes-Benz dealer or the Mercedes-Benz Approved Used warranty is included. Insist that the supplying dealer reimburse you for the amount you paid to the local dealer, using the Consumer Protection Act 2015. The supplying dealer technically has the right to ask you to return the car to them. However, in this situation, they actually recommended you to go to a local dealer. They made this suggestion under the mistaken assumption that the local dealer would fix the issue for free. This mistake is the responsibility of the supplying dealer. If the supplying dealer refuses to repay you and you have paid with a Credit Card, you may seek the refund from your Credit Card issuer. This illustrates the risks of purchasing a Mercedes-Benz vehicle from a distant Mercedes-Benz dealership. The MB Approved Used warranty does not cover defects that should have been identified and fixed before delivery. Your local dealer may have waived the inspection cost if you had purchased the automobile from them. However, dealers get upset when they are requested to fix warranty issues that should have been addressed by other dealers before the sale. Good luck.

Undoubtedly, diesel is more expensive than petrol, a factor to consider when evaluating fuel efficiency in terms of miles per gallon. What matters to me is that a 7-year-old petrol Mercedes with low mileage is a well-established choice in terms of expected dependability and future longevity (considered to have been little used), whereas a first-generation hybrid of the same age is significantly riskier.