Grundysp

southwest region

When it comes to these cars, I only use high-quality brands like FAI, Frii, and Peirburg. If you're replacing the chain, FAI offers a comprehensive kit that includes all the hubs and bits, similar to a master kit and oil pup chain kit. I perform engine refreshes frequently, and I always take the head and sump off the pistons, swap out the oil rings for better ones, and use FAI for the labour and parts. If you want to see how my previous refreshes turned out, just type in "mike1967 refresh" and you'll see examples of what I've done.

A plethora of wiring diagrams can be found in the Haynes.

Indeed, I encountered the same issue, but it is functioning properly now. This occurred approximately a week prior, so I understood to be patient and attempt again later. I am uncertain if this is connected to the same server issue, but the navigation feature (route calculation) was also malfunctioning for me earlier.

sure enough. It slipped my mind. So far, I've had success with pedaling.

Amazon.co.uk : brake fluid

Have you made sure that there is no brake fluid leaking at the point where the brake pipes attach to each tire? Wetness or discoloration will be visible there if a leak is present. Leaks in the brake vacuum hose or the brake fluid are the most common causes of a sagging brake pedal.

If cared for properly, these will last forever; however, the later Motronic injection is the better choice due to its superior technology and dependability. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order; otherwise, the alloy head will be goosed, thus it's best to stick to the service schedule from the E30 and E34.

On rare circumstances, yes, if the Pin Code is what you mean.

Is that the short line that I've drawn here connecting the bypass valve's vacuum actuator to the horn side of the valve?

It seems like the engine is going straight onto boost, and I'm worried the bypass valve is stuck closed. The hoover connection might have been knocked off, so I should go see. It seems to be in line with it since I also received identical problem codes. Is it feasible to you?

I see. Is it possible that it can take in air too easily? It will be interesting to see what the code reader shows, which I borrowed today.

Last night I replaced the head gasket on my R52 Cooper S. The engine started up without a hitch, however it went into overdrive almost instantly (I neglected to check the engine rev limit). From what I can tell, it could be vacuum lines or low voltage levels; however, I have not been able to locate this specific issue on the forum; could you perhaps point me in the direction of a good starting point?

It is quite costly, and I would surely like not to replace it a second time. I would like to ascertain the prices charged by other mainstream brand dealerships for the same service in 2026, regarding the claim of being 'very costly.'