Cincoon

will include the following items that any competent person would perform automatically: 1, bleed system; 2, sniff tester will indicate whether there is CO in the header tank, which is a symptom of a head or gasket failure; third, make sure the water pump is operational 4, use live data to watch the temp rise so dont do more dmage, 5 oil pressure test, and pull inlet cap sensor out and check for grey sludge , ie sign of crank wear i have found, 6 check all pipe are on correct way around, 7 use coolant pressure tool to pressurise system with plugs out, 2bar leave over night any coolant in cylinders or sump its done, how i bleed these is open bleed screw on thermostat housing fill with coolant until just coolant flows out, i then put pressure tool on it and press

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Cooper+S&linkCode=gs3&tag=verticalscope-21

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Prince+engine&tag=vs-pl-mini2-com-20&rel=nofollow

I have a 2012 Cooper S outside that was severely overheated and will eventually post it here with crank damage from overheating and a badly cracked head. The engine is probably cracked, and I would assume the system is bled before condemning it. You may believe what you want; I just post what I discover online. I'll be posting that one in a few weeks. An indicator of trouble is low oil pressure and a lot of grey stuff at the sump's base.

Firstly, it might be helpful to consult someone who has experience with these engines. In my opinion, the cylinder head should be discarded first because these engines tend to crack when heated. Pressure testing is done when the engine is cold, not when it is hot, because the heat expands the cracks. I learned the hard way that skimming and testing the head was an ineffective method, and I would have priced the job as a refresh plus used cylinder head. Additionally, I would have taken extra precautions to avoid overheating the crankshaft and sump, checking for bearing damage caused by oil thinning out, etc. If you are stuck and want it fixed properly at a fraction of what most garages would charge, please send it my way.

Do not engage with Mr. Shouty-man at any costs.

Do not expect a gentle hybrid. Yes, I did look. I have also mentioned three times that the 12v battery discharge message appears almost every time I turn it on. In other words, "it's one of those things" again. I am prepared to trade it in right now.

My vehicle was purchased in June of 2025. The energy save feature activates maybe once or twice a month. If not, the power button remains amber at all times. During the week, I travel 30 miles one way. Extended trips, during vacations and weekends. The technicians at the dealership, with whom I've spoken three times now, have informed me that "it has to meet certain conditions in order to engage." Over the years, I've logged countless miles behind the wheel, both long and short, on highways and A/B roads. No pattern has been apparent to me. It is uninvolved. How can I fix this?

Will you tell me the brand of head gasket set you use? I'm now in the process of gathering the necessary parts.

Thank you, however I don't see much progress, but I will try nonetheless 👍.

Thank you. I was under the impression that it wasn't exhibiting all the common signs of FRM failure that are discussed on websites like YouTube. Since the vehicle is parked, I'll need to secure the driver's door window using tape. Once again, I am grateful.

My sincere appreciation.

Hello there! I just acquired a Mini One R56 1.4 petrol and, after reading some excellent tips from @Bitxx, began dismantling the engine in preparation for a refresh. However, I bungled the process and accidentally shorted the heat shield against the alternator connection. I have activated the wipers, but the electric windows won't turn off (there's a 2-inch gap on the driver's side 😱). Have I damaged a module? Would much appreciate any assistance. This vehicle has a backstory; we purchased it new for my wife in 2009 and sold it in 2015. The same woman had owned it until we repurchased it a few weeks ago!

Hi there, It should be easy for you to replace the relay, which is located in the fuse box.

There's enough smoke to make you wonder if anything is wrong, but the dealer insists it's normal. They've already promised to return the vehicle to them if it passes inspection as sound and problem-free, adding they're tired with choices and have tried everything. I suspect they are attempting to avoid doing any more repair or diagnostics on it since it was returned to them weeks into ownership over worries about smoking under warranty. Originally, the warranty was for three months, but I believe I am protected under the Consumer Rights Act — In the event that a problem is reported within the warranty term and the repairs are unsuccessful or take too long, the warranty will often continue to cover that particular, continuing issue. This is to prevent recurring faults. "One Shot" at Repair: The Consumer Rights Act states that if a seller fails to fix or replace a defective car, the buyer has one chance. It makes no difference whether the warranty has already expired; if the repair doesn't work, you may be able to get your money back or have your car rejected. It has been about ten months since I purchased the automobile, give or take a little. The problem was detected rather quickly—within a few weeks—but the garage has been giving conflicting reports and has been throwing parts at the problem without really fixing it.