RosaStyle

Welcome back! I'm happy to hear that you're feeling better again. PS How do we recognise you when someone impersonates you and makes statements that make us think it's you? 🤔

Thank you. I've taken that step, so I know it will work. Thank you very much.

Sure, I'm grateful for the information. A fair amount of "rolling out" occurred at Tesla.To guarantee smooth compatibility with incoming electric vehicles, Tesla updates the hardware and software of its Supercharger network. I wanted to double-check that they are compatible with EV2s before I set out on my first several hundred-mile trip, since neither the Tesla app nor the Kia app shows the EV2 as a vehicle. You can be sure that everything will be resolved in due course. By the way, I figured I'd pop the question out into the daylight for now.

Amazon.co.uk : Tesla

Amazon.co.uk : Tesla app

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWSK35WH?ascsubtag=v1-7e312b-89714-f4f29824ad-d

Although I understand that the EV2 F.E. isn't the quickest charging electric vehicle, I'd become accustomed to charging my MG4 at the Tesla stations that were accessible to non-Tesla vehicle owners. Looks like EV2 is still missing from my app update. Since every other KIA electric vehicle is in stock, I've settled on "other kia" for the time being. The Tesla app claims it is compatible with the chargers, but it also suggests using the Kia charge app to find them. The Kia app does not include Tesla as an option. Does anyone know if it worked in the EV2 and if anyone has tried it yet? 😁👍

Altering the oil brand will not eliminate oil consumption; examine components such as the CCV for blockages.

Twenty millilitres is typically the maximum amount to add unless you're flushing the whole system, which can take a long time.

The body/engine relationship is negative.

There have been reports of unusual noises coming from the area around the intercooler, which is also where the water pump is located, according to the garage.

It seems that the cylinder head gasket was the culprit when my Cooper S Sidewalk May 25th overheated during the MOT and began leaking water from the header tank. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. No garage was willing to work with me since their prices were too high. Fall to Spring I had a hard time doing the head, but it seemed to have gone smoothly; the engine started, but it was harsh. I had to fix the slave cylinder since the clutch went when I was seated. Seized were the rear callipers; they were April 26th, scheduled maintenance appointment Unfortunately, the front left spring snapped before reaching the road. Finally lost since I don't have impact tools and had to have it collected (which took three weeks because the truck that was supposed to perform the collecting broke down). It has spent the entire day in the garage now.... Because the harsh flowing won't go away, water is being forced out of the header. Is there anything else that this sounds like? The garage is still going to look at it tomorrow, but other than "the head gasket swap didn't work" (it was all followed to the letter), is there anything else? If the water pump is pressurising the header, it can be because the coolant is obstructed. Is it possible that the tank cover is just not sealing? Is it possible that there are air leaks causing it to rev up at startup and run rough afterwards? Over the previous eight months, I've endured nothing but misery and wasted time trying to restore my beloved automobile. A broken spring prevented me from getting it to the shop in time, but I clung to the hope that I had salvaged my beloved vehicle by fixing it myself. Perhaps not now 😭😭😭😭 I would very appreciate (need) any recommendations.

That's to be expected; you'll usually see greater wear on their exhaust side.

You can reach the positive terminal of the battery with relative ease. A body ground wire is fastened to the fender immediately in front of the battery, while the negative terminal is concealed beneath the windscreen cowl. This is the location that the owner's manual suggests for jump starting, and it should work perfectly for a charger or tender.

That renovation or repair seems like it would cost a significant penny. Also surprising to me was the fact that, by default, pin 10 was not powered (this applies to both authentic and counterfeit wiring kits).