Captiva

This vehicle was formerly owned by a member of the forum. I could only locate a PistonHeads topic, suggesting he may not have been a member here.

Remarkable, that was sold at such a low price! This must be the least expensive S65 sold to date. It is fortunate that I did not encounter it, or I would have acquired another S65. 😆 Interestingly, I purchased an additional plate for the S65 yesterday.

In my opinion, a comprehensive main dealer service history is more pertinent when purchasing a vehicle than when selling or trading it in. As long as the car has undergone regular servicing, that is what truly matters. Regarding trade-ins, the vehicle will typically command a price close to the book value, with some flexibility to incentivise the acquisition of the new automobile. Many individuals regard an independent dealer as highly as a main dealership, as my observations over the years suggest that the former frequently provides superior service compared to the latter. However, exceptions do exist. The challenge lies in distinguishing the competent from the incompetent, and personally, I would prefer to rely on recommendations when possible. Assuming the role of devil's advocate, I understand your perspective regarding the assertion of rear subframe rust, particularly if you were still affiliated with Mobilo, which is responsible for addressing manufacturer defects. However, I highly doubt they would fulfil such a claim for a 13-year-old vehicle, as you are aware of the tendencies of warranties and insurance policies; if they can evade responsibility, they will. Additionally, consider your intentions for your 'baby,' such as whether you expect to retain her for a few years or indefinitely, as well as the anticipated yearly mileage, and I will explain the rationale for this statement. I drive my Bentley very seldom each year and have no intention of selling it until I am carried out of our cottage in a coffin, which implies: * I am unlikely to need road or home help and would like not to incur exorbitant costs for a service like Mobilo. I have been with the AA for almost 25 years, and they have always provided reliable service on the few occasions I have required assistance. * I am not concerned about obtaining a primary dealer's stamp in the service book, which also eliminates the need for trip to locate one. I can visit an Indy for specialised repairs and when I need their Bentley diagnostic equipment, which our local garage lacks. * I may visit our reliable local garage that maintains all our vehicles and Transit, so saving a considerable amount of money. I am curious about the financial implications and potential savings associated with selecting different garages in my situation. Labour Charge for Bentley Indy Full Service, January 2020 - £562.25 Local Garage Comprehensive Service Fixed Labour Fee October 2024 - £119

Smart tops provide extensive recommendations for DIY installation; nonetheless, I acknowledge that some individuals may lack the requisite skills or materials for self-installation.

Upon searching for 'trolley jack rubber pad,' they appear about fourth in the results list.

On the real jack, they are of varied sizes.

A often neglected detail is that the circular volume knob in the heart of the infotainment system functions as an on/off power switch. Pressing it will deactivate the infotainment system. Power cycling the device by removing the fuse will reactivate it, or alternatively, you may just click the volume button again. This button may be inadvertently activated when operating a vehicle. Clearly, there may be an alternative problem with your system; nonetheless, I recommend verifying this first. 👍

I decided to experiment with some inexpensive puddle LEDs. Ultimately installed them into the doors today. I believe it was a worthwhile expenditure of 10 pounds.

Compromised beading surface, undetected hairline fracture, or leaky valve...however, that should be substituted with each tire replacement. Porous wheels can occur, but seldom, and are often associated with significant bubbling and corrosion.

Thank you for that. An really beneficial instrument. My subsequent inquiry is to the stated increase in ride height of 12mm, which poses no issue for me. My speedometer's accuracy will be -3.5%. If the speedometer indicates 30 mph, my real speed is 28.9 mph. Do you believe this little alteration will result in any complications? Thank you for your assistance.

Greetings everyone, I own an E400 Cabriolet equipped with 19-inch wheels. The experience is horrible. The front tires are 235/35/R19. I want to increase the profile of the tire. Is it OK to go to 235/40/R19? The rear tire is 255/30/R19. Am I able to modify them to 255/35/R19? My tire technician agrees, but he also advised checking the forum as well. I prefer not to switch to 18-inch alloys, since I have just had these wheels refurbished. Any guidance would be welcomed. Thank you, everyone.

The only recommendation is to get written confirmation (by email or letter) of coverage and/or excess.

Renovo offers high-quality items. Halfords offers an Autoglym kit for sale. I use Grangers Gold Tent Fabric Proofer due to its cost-effectiveness over time.

The batteries in the key fob for keyless entry/go have a short lifespan. I am uncertain as to the reason. I needed to replace the battery biannually.

Excellent selection of vehicle. I continue to long for mine. A number of owners are available to assist with any concerns you may have. It is advantageous that the warranty will address the leaks. A substantial labour invoice must be settled.

MB Automotive located in Loughborough or Mercland situated in Nuneaton

Thank you. I have a pre-owned replacement OCP en route. I will be able to definitively ascertain whether the ambient LED resumes normal functionality, as it currently exhibits a persistent problem (i.e., it remains continuously illuminated).

Does anyone possess knowledge on how to effectively detach these connectors without causing additional damage? I cannot see a lever or a clip, yet they are quite difficult to remove.

I have previously completed this process and established that the draw occurs through the OCP circuit. I demonstrated that disconnecting the fuse in position 9 of the boot fusebox eliminates the continuously illuminated ambient light and normalises the power usage. My enquiries now pertain to whether the error is probable in the OCP or in another component, such as one of the SAMs. And how I may diagnose. Thank you.

Affirmative. One of those items. Switch placements are irrelevant since the ambient light is non-switchable, and the switchable ones function correctly.

sold as seen; therefore, I believe there is no recourse. Furthermore, I cannot ascertain with certainty if the defect existed before the important individual performed his actions.

This morning, the vehicle was entirely unresponsive to the remote unlock; yet, I successfully unlocked and started it, so alleviating the issue without addressing the underlying cause. Therefore, my enquiries are as follows: - Is it plausible that the pull responsible for the flat battery was not present during the first week, considering I experienced no power concerns until that time? - Could the unidentified transient EIS have triggered a malfunction in the electrical system? - Do we believe that the OCP is defective? - I have encountered information regarding a SAM that may also be involved. Is it possible that a SAM is defective? - Could someone inform me which SAM it may be, as I suspect there are several possibilities. - Can someone provide guidance on how to test the SAM, considering I lack access to any STAR or Autel devices? - Additionally, please include any other relevant information I may have overlooked. Thank you in advance.

Greetings everyone Recently acquired a CLC180 coupe. [EDIT: It appears that this model is actually a CL203, not a W203 - my apologies] I have a matter on which I would appreciate your pooled expertise. I have conducted a search. I apologise for the length of the post; I prefer to offer comprehensive detail. I purchased this automobile a few weeks ago. Week one, no complications. On Friday, at the conclusion of the first week, I will have an auto-locksmith fabricate and program a new key, as the car was supplied with only one key. He encountered difficulties reprogramming the keys to my original ignition module (EIS), so to facilitate my mobility, he installed a temporary spare EIS until he procured a new. This could be pertinent to the narrative. On Saturday, I completed many long runs; nevertheless, on Monday, I awoke to a depleted battery. I observed that the ambient light beneath the rearview mirror is perpetually illuminated, regardless of the circumstances. It does not deactivate upon removing the key from the ignition, nor does it cease operation after a delay. The onboard computer lacks possibilities to modify the behaviour of this light. All other internal lights function properly and deactivate as anticipated when the doors are closed or the vehicle is locked. My wife possesses an SLK, and its ambient light deactivates immediately upon turning off the ignition. The locksmith returns with the new EIS, and I recount this narrative to him. I request that he reinsert the original component to determine if the ambient light deactivates. It does not. He installs the new replacement EIS. The ambient light remains lit. He proceeds on his path. I am currently in parasitic draw mode. At steady state, once all doors are closed and a period of time has elapsed, the current draw is approximately 0.17 amps. I begin removing fuses, and ultimately, the system ceases operation when I extract fuse 9 from the fuse box in the trunk. This fuse is likely intended for the overhead control panel (OCP) control box. Upon removal, the ambient light extinguishes, and the current draw decreases to approximately 0.08 amps. I have heard that 0.05-0.08 amps is permissible, hence it is at the upper limit. Meanwhile, I consulted a Mercedes-Benz dealer regarding this matter, and they recommended disconnecting the ambient light from the OCP. I successfully disconnected two connectors, one for the ambient light and another of uncertain use, so significantly decreasing the power usage. I have disconnected these two. The white object on the right corresponds to the ambient light in the mirror.

Please provide the first six digits of your VIN if you own a different model.