Captiva

Affirmative, I have replaced the condenser on my W212. I am unable to identify your photographs, thus I will provide a description based on my recollection. Apologies for any inaccuracies resulting from my imperfect recollection, but here is my attempt. All of this was accomplished with the bumper removed, allowing for easy access. My recommendation is to avoid attempting to replace the condenser yourself while the bumper is still attached. The condenser is positioned between the intercooler and the radiator. By removing all the undertrays from the automobile, you will have a satisfactory perspective of the placement of various components. The pipes made of metal and rubber that are connected together seem to resemble air conditioning pipes in my observation. The condenser had a rubber/metal pipe positioned at the upper section, most likely on the driver's side. This pipe remained in satisfactory condition mostly because it was elevated and not exposed to the road. The detachment from the condenser occurred without any problems. The condenser is equipped with a pipe that is connected to the lower passenger side of the condenser, along with a pressure sensor. This pipe runs down the wall of the engine compartment and connects to a component whose specific identity eludes my memory. It is possible that the issue lies with either the compressor or a connection point with another section of pipe. The positive aspect is that I remember that this can be altered rather easily by accessing the condenser connection from below and removing the passenger side air box and related components from above. The task is somewhat challenging due to limited space, but it is readily achievable. The only difficulty arises when your hand and a tool obstruct your view, but this can be overcome by just looking beforehand, allowing for simple visualisation and tactile awareness. The bolt was easily loosened in this protected and arid engine bay area. The cost of this hose was around £50. An unfortunate aspect is that this hose experiences significant corrosion, particularly in the lower section near the road or front of the vehicle. Consequently, I had to use a pipe cutter to remove the hose from the condenser in order to extract the condenser. The thread located in the lower part of the condenser has been entirely severed. Well done, I am glad that you were replacing the condenser rather than simply a pressure sensor! If you completely remove the passenger airbox and bottom trays, you will be able to definitively determine if this pipe is the cause. If you want to make the modification, it is advisable to use a pipe cutter. It is important to note that wearing a watch may hinder your ability to reach the area due to limited space. Additionally, it is recommended to get a replacement pressure sensor and Mahle condenser for the task. Refer to my post for a compelling endorsement on which condenser to get.

Yes, it is advisable to disconnect the battery and wait for a minimum of 20 minutes as a precautionary measure. There are several online resources available that provide detailed instructions on how to accomplish this. Although the required instruments are not extensive, if you are not experienced in auto repairs, it may be wise to have an independent professional do the task.

Is there a problem with the 7th generation box? I am aware that it was on the 5-speed gearbox... I had it completed on my SL.

As said, your automobile is equipped with the 7G gearbox, which is experiencing a condition known as limp mode. To get the most precise diagnostic information, it is recommended to use the MB STAR system. My vehicle, which was the same model, also had this issue, but only on rare occasions. However, I found that just restarting the car always resolved the problem, thus I never took any action to address it. The OM272 V6 engine in this vehicle, as well as in numerous other Mercedes-Benz models from that time period, is susceptible to balancing shaft issues. The components underwent modifications throughout time, allowing you to determine which of the three distinct problems your engine may encounter depending on its serial number. The automobile requires an engine-out rebuild to replace the balancing shaft gears, which will cost more than the current value of the car. The EML is activated and requires new adjustment solenoids, with a range of 2729 to 30759427. The total number of occurrences is 2729 to 30895140, and there are no instances of electromagnetic interference (EML) or oil leakage. However, new adjustment solenoids are required. Complete information may be found here: The Complete M272 Engine Thread | Engine My vehicle fell into the second classification and managed to reach around 120,000 kilometres without any incidents, although... In addition, they are susceptible to problems with the variable length intake manifold. This component becomes more rigid with age and finally the plastic actuator arm fails, triggering the Engine Malfunction Light. Mercedes-Benz only offers a fully assembled replacement intake manifold for sale. Aftermarket metal arms are available, however it is highly recommended to first remove and clean the manifold of carbon deposits before installing them. Due to the impending expiration of my MOT, I decided to trade in my vehicle for a W205 at this juncture.

That would be logical. The insurance business is unable to allocate funds towards a programme that just leads to a decrease in income. The manner in which they promote it is really absurd. Will some individuals see a decline in rates? I have a suspicion. However, it might be likened to a casino which promotes the notion that its purpose is to provide monetary rewards. Likewise, the majority of individuals must experience a loss in order to justify the expenditure.

Indeed, I have long held the belief that one must possess a high degree of gullibility in order to engage in such behaviour. Insurance Company: "We will allocate substantial funds, ranging from tens to hundreds of millions, towards the development and operation of a programme that tracks your driving behaviours... with the aim of reducing your premiums and minimising our revenue." Indeed, such assertion seems to be both plausible and precise.

Fortunately, Gen-1 does not pose any danger. The Gen-1 R8 will not meet the criteria for automobiles equipped with modern telematics systems that are linked to the Internet. While it may be intelligent to assume that nothing is private, it is not appropriate to accept this as the actuality. These corporations are becoming more deceptive in their assertion that you are "opting in" - the majority of individuals are unlikely to carefully examine the details to understand that their data is being sold and used against them only for the purpose of unlocking their automobile via an application, for example. That is flagrant and deceitful. It is possible to deactivate all connected vehicle services; however, it is not a straightforward process. Thorough investigation is required to ascertain the methods and timing of data collection, the unintended terms of agreement, and the potential association between these terms and subscription to said services. While I typically do not support further regulation, it is imperative to address the issue of data privacy. The ability to outwit corporate lawyers who conceal their rights to collect and sell user data within lengthy contact details is limited. Therefore, it is necessary to implement a framework similar to the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) in order to clearly identify user data and grant them enhanced rights, such as the right to be forgotten, which entails the deletion of their personal data.

Perhaps we own the solution! https://edition.cnn.com/2023/05/21/africa/west-africa-benin-used-cars-climate-intl/index.html

Invert the pipe at the other end and extract the pipe containing the injector. Regardless, you will need to reverse the other end as the pipe will not deform enough to remove the injector. Once the head is removed, it will be possible to attach a spanner to it without any obstruction.

Hello, I apologise, but could you perhaps clarify what you meant by "checking the seal I removed"? The only item I removed was the copper washer. Indeed, I saw the YouTube video he suggested about the Honda washers. However, I must promptly assemble them in order to pass the MOT retest. Thank you.

I need to determine the appropriate size of the bit required to re-cut the injector seat when replacing the injector seals. The vehicle in question is a 2010 Mercedes E class with a 3.0 litre V6 engine. Thank you very much

For some unknown reason, on the icarsoft CR Max, there is a presence of SBC information under the EPB menu. There are on-screen directions detailing what actions to take. However, similar to the last situation, I neglected to follow any of those suggestions. A conventional pressure bleeder functioned effectively.

A malfunctioning exhaust bracket might result in a resonant buzzing noise.

The appearance is impressive, despite the use of filtered pictures. It is really remarkable.

A CLK refers to a W203 model. If the CLK is equipped with the standard Thermomatic temperature control system, it will only have one active charcoal filter located in the engine bay. However, if it has the (rare) Thermotronic climate control system, it will have an extra filter situated within the cabin, namely beneath or below the glove box. The Datacard will indicate the specific system installed in your automobile.

...and Knecht.

Which do you prioritise more - a fully operational AdBlue system or keeping the remap? If you choose the older NOx sensors, they are less dependable and will fail earlier or again, but they do not need updated software. However, they are less reliable compared to the newer NOx sensors, which do require a software update.

If an engine or engine module has undergone remapping, when connected to an MB diagnostic system, the screen will display a flashing red indicator or similar signal, indicating the presence of a remap. If you have just installed the newest versions of NOx sensors, it is necessary to load updated software into the Engine ECU. This task can only be performed by authorised dealers, and maybe by an independent technician who has a full MB STAR membership.

We drive on the other side of the road.

The image shows a seam sealant called "moudling" applied to the inner arch to prevent chipping and corrosion. It is painted over during the manufacturing process. There is a problem and it has been tainted. I would be amazed if it's an aftermarket fix since aftermarket body shops often do not re-seal seams in that manner.

I couldn't locate a dipstick of the appropriate length that remains in the vehicle. The current one is too long, but I now know where the full mark is. I agree that the design is quite impractical, particularly as substantial disassembly is required before inserting the dipstick.

As far as I know, there is no certain dipstick designated as "correct." The dipstick does not fully insert and remain in the tube like the om642 one. Therefore, you must determine the entire mark position on your own.

The optimal approach is to empty the sump via the drain plug, replenish it with the appropriate amount of oil, and then check the oil level on the dipstick to determine the exact level.

Standing in front of my C43 and 5.0 E500 cars, you would hear significant drive belt whining sounds, but the muffled V8 audio only becomes noticeable beyond 4k. The 5.0 engine has a long-travel throttle and lacks the immediate torque characteristic of a diesel engine. The 5.5 overcomes that issue; when you lightly press the throttle at low engine rpm, it accelerates quickly. It has much greater power than the 5.0 engine over the whole range of revolutions. It reduces the 0-60 time by over a second and the 0-100 time by two seconds. When comparing acceleration times from 0-100 for 5.0, 5.5, and 5.5k, they are around 13.5s, 11.5s, and 9.5s respectively. The 5.5 is positioned nearly precisely midway between the other two in terms of performance. An E500/CLS500 is more akin to a mini-S Class in terms of character rather than an AMG, as discussed in previous forums. If the AMG is equivalent to an RS6, then the E500 might be compared to the S6. You would get a somewhat newer 500 and/or one with less miles per unit of weight if that is significant to you. A few years ago, I found that an E63 was around 25-30% more expensive than an identical E500, considering vehicles of the same age with similar mileage. I would choose a well-maintained version of either a 5.5 or 55K model with a comprehensive service record. It is beneficial to have evidence of maintenance done on the Airmatic system, SBC pump, gearbox flushes, ball joints, and recent disc replacements. Some are treated luxuriously, while others are neglected, and by making wise purchases, you may save spending thousands on upkeep.

Disregard me