Hypabl

Is the problem persisting after the battery replacement? I had the same problem with my 2021 CX30, and the battery was replaced, only to have another failure two weeks later. The user's text consists of an emoji depicting a rolling eyes expression. I was informed that I must have inadvertently neglected to turn off my lights. I am incredulous that I left my lights on!

Understood, I will not search for the pull cord. Do the same principles apply to regular mode, which is the mode I mostly use? When the battery hits a certain low level, the controls in the sport mode activate the charging mode.

I have not yet achieved a 0% discharge level for our CX-90 PHEV and I am curious whether, at that time, the vehicle would automatically transition to using the petrol engine and begin recharging the batteries via the engine. I have observed that there is an auxiliary battery present in the automobile, in addition to the standard 12v battery located under the hood. Thank you

Thank you, that is positive information. It seems that the issue is related to the reluctor rings. Can something be accomplished as a do-it-yourself task?

Ah, tyres are a wise suggestion, thank you. The current tyre size is 225/45/ZR17. The new rear tyres have a size of 255/40/ZR17. My knowledge regarding tyres is limited. Will the difference between the 45/40 measurements cause any problems?

The DSC lights have begun to illuminate, and I experience a momentary loss of power during regular driving. Initially, there were just a few isolated incidents of encountering a roundabout, but last night on the road, the warning lights on my vehicle were blinking rapidly, like a brightly lit Christmas tree, even though I was driving on a straight path. Based on my research, it seems that the problem may be related to a reluctor ring. I have many inquiries, then. The problem arose the day after my vehicle's maintenance, during which two fresh rear tyres and brake pads were installed. Could this plausibly be the cause or is it really a chance occurrence? Can I resolve this issue independently using a Haynes manual or instructional videos on YouTube? Am I pursuing the incorrect course of action? Salutations!

Both options are applicable. It is challenging to make a decision. Perhaps a silver colour would be suitable to enhance the silver tones and showcase the automobile in its intended "originality" as per its design. They possess an air of sophistication and elegance. The gunmetal colour option also has an appealing aesthetic, albeit with a somewhat more contemporary and assertive appearance. Both options are equally good.

Identical. I did not even install new tyres on my new wheels.

The cost for mine is 8,700 units, and a tune may easily provide you with more revolutions per minute. For instance, the maximum engine speed of my B7 RS4 was increased from 8,250 rpm to 8,800 rpm with the Jackal tune.

I was anticipating communication from you on this matter. I have seen your name prominently featured across the forum. Rebuilt vehicles are completely unacceptable to me, thus I insist on a clean title as a necessity. However, I am undecided about minor accidents, since I recently incurred some costs while selling one of my existing cars. I share the same perspective on the tendency for incidents like this to be exaggerated online. However, I am curious to know if this problem has intensified with time or not. I agree that if it were a prevalent problem, one would expect it to manifest more often on this platform. I value the feedback. My intention is to persistently search for the optimal opportunity. I will refrain from disposing of an older vehicle solely based on this apprehension. I will certainly develop a routine of inspecting the area behind the frunk as I gaze.

To what extent is there a stigma attached to the older automobiles that lack frame strengthening before to 2011? I am aware that there have been discussions about the possibility of frame cracking difficulties. However, I would appreciate receiving comments that takes into account the additional time that has passed since the vehicles have been in use. I am now looking to purchase a first-generation V10 and have came across many options. Some are older, while others are newer. I am uncertain about whether or not I should consider purchasing an older model due to concerns about potential frame fractures. Due to my economic constraints, I will likely have to purchase a used vehicle with high mileage, unless I choose to buy an automatic automobile, which I am strongly trying to avoid. To provide more background, I want to purchase the automobile for the purpose of driving and deriving pleasure from it. While I do hope that it maintains its worth in the future, my main focus at the moment is not on reselling it. As an additional hypothetical question for additional credit, assuming all other factors are the same, would you prefer a 2012 model with a little blemish on its history report or a 2010 model with no negative history? As a newcomer to the Exotic market, I want to gather as much information as possible before becoming involved.

I am intrigued by the question. What is the rationale for seeing 2008 as a superior option? A 2008 vehicle with 20,000 kilometres, which has restricted access, would have an approximate value of $70,000 to $75,000. A 2015 vehicle with 20,000 kilometres would have an approximate value of $100,000 to $110,000. However, if financial considerations are not an issue, it is recommended to choose the 2015 option. Upon reaching a price point of $110k, you will be faced with the ongoing and never-ending discussion on which version of the R8 to choose. At this price, you will have access to the exclusive 2012 V10 model, as well as the 2014-15 S-Tronic V10 variant. Ultimately, your decision on the automobile will depend on your own objectives and budgetary preferences.

I am inclined to mostly stick with the Kline, but sometimes I have the want to experiment with something more audacious while I am riding with my friends who drive roaring GT3s.

You will really like it as it has exceptional auditory qualities. Moreover, if you need a more subdued experience, it is absolutely ideal. This is the way the automobile should have been delivered from the manufacturer.

I have a strong affection for my Kline Inconel exhaust system, but sometimes I want a louder sound, despite its already impressive tone. Therefore, I am curious in the RYFT exhaust system.

Does anybody have firsthand experience with RYFT exhausts for the v10 facelift? I have seen that there are racing and performance versions available. I am interested in hearing from anyone who have personal experience with either of these editions.

How will future generations acquire knowledge in the coming years? There will be a shift in market needs throughout that period. In my opinion, it is too pricey considering the current market conditions.

Regarding the 36 K miles, the price of $65 K is rather favourable. Ensure that the front frames are undamaged and the air conditioning system is operational.

The item is aesthetically pleasing and I would feel a sense of pride in owning it.

To replace the item, it is essential to determine the root cause of the first failure. For instance, if water infiltration was the issue, preventive measures should be taken to avoid recurrence. One approach may be to encase it in a plastic bag with an air vent at the top, while sealing the areas where cables and plugs are inserted. The poor design of the vehicle caused water damage to the radio, amplifier, and Bluetooth module located beneath the seat due to water pouring from the hood. The repair cost £1750 at BMW.

The issue was evident upon delivery. The next day, I informed the salesman. I scheduled an inspection for the vehicle at my independent shop 6 days after it was delivered. The automobile was inspected by roadside assistance the next day, and they recommended taking it to the closest dealership for repairs covered under warranty. The Mercedes-Benz dealership has kept my car for four business days, and I have not received any updates. I am strongly considering returning the automobile due to my lack of interest in dealing with any delays that might impact my statutory rights.

I upgraded the warranty to a 2-year term. The local Mercedes-Benz dealer has not reached out to me in 2 days, leading me to suspect a potentially significant problem. If necessary, I would purchase another B Class automobile to use my legal right to return the current one. I am worried that a vehicle experiencing a significant gearbox problem at 2 years old may not be dependable by the time it reaches 10 years old, which is typically how long I like to keep my cars.

I purchased a pre-owned Mercedes B Class, B200, AMG that is two years old online from a prominent Mercedes Dealership in England. When the automobile was delivered, it emitted an unusual noise when the engine was idle. A trusted local garage, not affiliated with Mercedes, conducted a vehicle health inspection. They commented: A loud noise is heard while the automobile is moving slowly, indicating an internal issue inside the gearbox that has to be addressed by a dealer. I contacted Mercedes about the warranty. They said that it probably wouldn't be covered by warranty and I would need to pay GBP 150 for them to inspect it. Subsequently, I attempted to resolve this issue with the dealer located 200 miles away, thus, I drove the vehicle small distances on local roads. The banging intensified, first only occurring while I was decelerating when the engine was running at a standstill. It began even at speeds below 30 mph. The dealership recommended contacting roadside help. The roadside assistance recommended promptly bringing the automobile to Mercedes. The vehicle has been in my local Mercedes Dealership for 2 days, however they have not given any updates. I consider a problem with the gearbox to be significant and probably costly to repair. I typically retain my vehicles for 10-12 years and I'm questioning whether I should anticipate that this automobile will not last for that duration. Would you want to retain the automobile if the issue can be fixed, or would you prefer to return it to the dealership and search for a new car without any known problems?

Thank you,MutanX . I will definitely pursue your suggestion.

My 2015 V8 vehicle, equipped with the S tronic gearbox, has accumulated a mileage of 34,000 miles. Approximately 1,000 miles ago, while travelling from San Diego to Los Angeles, I had an issue where the engine excessively revved when attempting to transition from first to second gear automatically. Despite my attempt to manually shift using the shift paddle, the second gear failed to engage. I had the automobile sent to the Audi dealership, where they conducted a thorough examination and found no problem codes. Additionally, during their test drive, they saw that the gearbox was functioning properly. Subsequently, I covered around 900 miles without encountering any issues with the vehicle until this month, when I had four further instances of the inability to enter second gear. From my observations of those four occurrences, I have discovered that by turning off the engine and allowing both the engine and gearbox to cool for a duration of time, which might vary from 20 minutes to overnight, the issue will resolve on its own. The vehicle will resume regular operation, provided that I only drive for short durations, such as less than 30-45 minutes. It seems that the issue is really linked to temperature, since the vehicle operates properly for a period of time following a specific event, until the engine and gearbox have adequately cooled down. After doing an extensive search on the site, I discovered a limited number of discussions about issues with the S tronic gearbox. Therefore, I kindly request any recommendations on the potential problem or, alternatively, the most effective approach to investigating the issue in the absence of error codes. Thank you for taking the time to read.