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Located adjacent to the parking brake cable.

The thread for the brake calliper in my offside rear knuckle is damaged. I have been attempting to get an additional knuckle on eBay, but I am uncertain which one is compatible with my vehicle. The knuckle does not seem to have a part number. Aside from A203 04 05 The nearside is A203 05 05. I have located one from an R171 SLK that seems to be labelled A203 04 05. The 04 is ambiguous, although that is its apparent appearance. I have contacted the vendor to verify that it is a 04 in the centre, but they just provided me with the part number A2033501408, which is uninformative to me. I dispatched a second message accompanied by an image of the number in question and promptly recognised that I was communicating with an individual seated at a desk and unable to verify the information. The vehicle is a 2006 A209 equipped with the AMG sports package. The brakes are worn, and the bolts seem to be 10mm. According to my observations online, some callipers utilise 10mm bolts while others employ 12mm bolts. I presume that I cannot simply apply any knuckle. My inquiry is if I must align it with the one designated a203 04 05, or if any variant will suffice. Provided the bolts measure 10mm?

It will likely enhance the accuracy of your speedometer, since they often underreport from the factory. The clearance of the front wheel arch liners at full lock is my primary worry.

Thank you, everyone! I was not informed that I need one, nor was there any endorsement for it. I presume everything is OK; I was enquiring to ensure there is not an issue that may unexpectedly arise.

This morning, my BMW X5 40i was taken in the UK. Intruders entered my home, searched, and located my key, which was stored in an anti-theft wallet. I do not believe the car is equipped with a dedicated tracker; however, it was outfitted with technology upon purchase. It includes a Thatcham 1 Alarm System with Remote Control and Engine Immobiliser, a M Sport Pro Package, a Technology Package, and the BMW app, which, while not a tracker, provides real-time location updates and features 360-degree cameras. Despite my explicit decision not to install a tracker on the insurance vehicle, my inquiry is whether my insurance necessitates the use of a tracker, given that my policy lacks an endorsement mandating it and the insurer has not requested one. The terms explicitly state: You will not be covered if Your vehicle was either unlocked or a window or sunroof was ajar. Your keys were left in or on your vehicle. Your vehicle lacks a functional security or tracking system. Thank you for any comments!

Greetings to everyone I am now seeking my first Audi R8 in the UK. I have just sold my 2011 Lotus Evora S and am seeking a Gen 1 facelift R8 V10 or V10 Plus. I have conducted extensive study and am now prepared to proceed; nevertheless, I have a possible concern with ground clearance. I have a significant elevation at the entrance of my garage, and I am concerned about the front nose or splitter making contact. Is there anybody who can ascertain or measure the approach angle for a Gen 1 V10? What is the difference in approach angle between the V10 Plus, which is somewhat lower and has a more aggressive splitter? Here is a schematic I created upon purchasing my Evora. I have measured the garage's approach angle to be around 9.5 degrees. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you

I concur. For a brief while, I anticipated some images...

I own a 2020 Excel and only use Android Auto with the AAwireless adaptor, encountering no troubles. For your information, Toyota is providing a complimentary tracker. I have recently updated my insurance, which was £690 with Quotemehappy, and is now via Go.Compare IM with AA £335 and a TopCashback rebate of £42.

can have Halfords do the service for a little fee. Years ago, when I had a W203 C-Class, the lighting was inadequate, so I purchased the highest quality bulbs available at Halfords and paid a little fee for installation. They will not service all vehicles, since some are quite intricate, and the bulbs must be purchased from them. It is suitable while you wait, but verify before to proceeding.

I performed four oil changes on my vehicle, in two sets of two, and found it sufficiently clean. It did enhance the fluidity of the gear transitions, however.

Is the problem persisting after the battery replacement? I had the same problem with my 2021 CX30, and the battery was replaced, only to have another failure two weeks later. The user's text consists of an emoji depicting a rolling eyes expression. I was informed that I must have inadvertently neglected to turn off my lights. I am incredulous that I left my lights on!

Understood, I will not search for the pull cord. Do the same principles apply to regular mode, which is the mode I mostly use? When the battery hits a certain low level, the controls in the sport mode activate the charging mode.

I have not yet achieved a 0% discharge level for our CX-90 PHEV and I am curious whether, at that time, the vehicle would automatically transition to using the petrol engine and begin recharging the batteries via the engine. I have observed that there is an auxiliary battery present in the automobile, in addition to the standard 12v battery located under the hood. Thank you

Thank you, that is positive information. It seems that the issue is related to the reluctor rings. Can something be accomplished as a do-it-yourself task?

Ah, tyres are a wise suggestion, thank you. The current tyre size is 225/45/ZR17. The new rear tyres have a size of 255/40/ZR17. My knowledge regarding tyres is limited. Will the difference between the 45/40 measurements cause any problems?

The DSC lights have begun to illuminate, and I experience a momentary loss of power during regular driving. Initially, there were just a few isolated incidents of encountering a roundabout, but last night on the road, the warning lights on my vehicle were blinking rapidly, like a brightly lit Christmas tree, even though I was driving on a straight path. Based on my research, it seems that the problem may be related to a reluctor ring. I have many inquiries, then. The problem arose the day after my vehicle's maintenance, during which two fresh rear tyres and brake pads were installed. Could this plausibly be the cause or is it really a chance occurrence? Can I resolve this issue independently using a Haynes manual or instructional videos on YouTube? Am I pursuing the incorrect course of action? Salutations!

Both options are applicable. It is challenging to make a decision. Perhaps a silver colour would be suitable to enhance the silver tones and showcase the automobile in its intended "originality" as per its design. They possess an air of sophistication and elegance. The gunmetal colour option also has an appealing aesthetic, albeit with a somewhat more contemporary and assertive appearance. Both options are equally good.

Identical. I did not even install new tyres on my new wheels.

The cost for mine is 8,700 units, and a tune may easily provide you with more revolutions per minute. For instance, the maximum engine speed of my B7 RS4 was increased from 8,250 rpm to 8,800 rpm with the Jackal tune.

I was anticipating communication from you on this matter. I have seen your name prominently featured across the forum. Rebuilt vehicles are completely unacceptable to me, thus I insist on a clean title as a necessity. However, I am undecided about minor accidents, since I recently incurred some costs while selling one of my existing cars. I share the same perspective on the tendency for incidents like this to be exaggerated online. However, I am curious to know if this problem has intensified with time or not. I agree that if it were a prevalent problem, one would expect it to manifest more often on this platform. I value the feedback. My intention is to persistently search for the optimal opportunity. I will refrain from disposing of an older vehicle solely based on this apprehension. I will certainly develop a routine of inspecting the area behind the frunk as I gaze.

To what extent is there a stigma attached to the older automobiles that lack frame strengthening before to 2011? I am aware that there have been discussions about the possibility of frame cracking difficulties. However, I would appreciate receiving comments that takes into account the additional time that has passed since the vehicles have been in use. I am now looking to purchase a first-generation V10 and have came across many options. Some are older, while others are newer. I am uncertain about whether or not I should consider purchasing an older model due to concerns about potential frame fractures. Due to my economic constraints, I will likely have to purchase a used vehicle with high mileage, unless I choose to buy an automatic automobile, which I am strongly trying to avoid. To provide more background, I want to purchase the automobile for the purpose of driving and deriving pleasure from it. While I do hope that it maintains its worth in the future, my main focus at the moment is not on reselling it. As an additional hypothetical question for additional credit, assuming all other factors are the same, would you prefer a 2012 model with a little blemish on its history report or a 2010 model with no negative history? As a newcomer to the Exotic market, I want to gather as much information as possible before becoming involved.

I am intrigued by the question. What is the rationale for seeing 2008 as a superior option? A 2008 vehicle with 20,000 kilometres, which has restricted access, would have an approximate value of $70,000 to $75,000. A 2015 vehicle with 20,000 kilometres would have an approximate value of $100,000 to $110,000. However, if financial considerations are not an issue, it is recommended to choose the 2015 option. Upon reaching a price point of $110k, you will be faced with the ongoing and never-ending discussion on which version of the R8 to choose. At this price, you will have access to the exclusive 2012 V10 model, as well as the 2014-15 S-Tronic V10 variant. Ultimately, your decision on the automobile will depend on your own objectives and budgetary preferences.

I am inclined to mostly stick with the Kline, but sometimes I have the want to experiment with something more audacious while I am riding with my friends who drive roaring GT3s.

You will really like it as it has exceptional auditory qualities. Moreover, if you need a more subdued experience, it is absolutely ideal. This is the way the automobile should have been delivered from the manufacturer.