Hypabl

Thereafter, he can attach a larger turbo.

Swapping out the engine with the 30lt is less expensive and simpler.

Did you ask about going up there to see it yourself? Usually if a company has nothing to hide they won’t have an issue with you viewing or even collecting in person If they try to dodge that question, that’s when I’d start worrying

Here we have 17-inch wheels with plenty of tires. What exactly is a pothole? (Since I don't have a Mini Cooper like Ms. Cooper's, I don't know anything about that...)

As soon as I get a new car, whether it's a front or rear-mounted one, I remove the plinth and attach the plate to the bumper using extra-strong 3m or something similar to hide the mounting screws. The removal of those unsightly plastic pieces always makes a car seem better, in my opinion. Important Notice! The front plate on my current car is held on by two screws. The tape wasn't able to adhere the hard perspex plate well enough to follow the curves of the bumper, but at least the plinths are gone!

Presumably purchased from a dealer? If that's the case, the Consumer Rights Act will pay for repairs for up to six months after the purchase, when the defect was first noticed. The validity of whatever warranty you may possess is moot. It is the dealer's responsibility to either fix it or give you your money back

Surprisingly, there is no database for fault codes. Was Star /Xentry the tool the specialist was utilising?

🫡

🙂

I see what you mean about how close the throttle body is to the oil filter. This post was born out of my anxiety, but I've calmed down now that I have the donor vehicle's VIN: WBAUR32030VL28468. Based on my research on Realoem, it appears to be the same setup.

I've placed an eBay harness order, but I can't shake the feeling that there might be some subtle discrepancies. This 2009 320d [E90 with N47 engine, model code PN32] is the vehicle in question. This 2012 120d [E82 with N47 engine, model code UR32] gives us the harness that we need. The original harness (the one that attaches to the main plastic box between the rocker cover and intake manifold) has the number 850720902, whereas the donor harness (also with the number 1251 850 7209) has the number 850720903. When it comes to both automobiles, RealOEM just gives you an 11-digit number without the 02 or 03 suffix and says it's the right part number. Is anyone aware of any major distinction between the two?

Thank you once more; I am almost there.

Is there anyone who can provide some useful guidance regarding fuel efficiency?

The hue is great for your car, my friend. The armrest gets dirty fast, so you might want to invest in a cover.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=fog light&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X40651e66f5166e91f75c7870e1cd262e&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

There should be a rear fog light, right? Beloved vintage bus 😍

Thank you. Is the sole method to eliminate that possibility to replace it?

Automatic

I do perceive smoke, but it appears ordinary to me. Nothing superfluous? I have not rescanned it for codes. If the coolant were at full capacity, the tank would likely be entirely depleted by approximately one month after covering around 150 miles.

I possess a 330D M Sport E90 and believe I have maintained it rather diligently. It has 140,000 miles and has undergone numerous preventative maintenance procedures in recent years. I observed a decrease in my engine coolant level, although there were no discernible leaks on the driveway. I had it pressure tested, and they verified that there were no exterior leaks. I presume this likely indicates a head gasket issue. If that is the case, then I am profoundly disheartened! What actions may I undertake to verify whether it is the head gasket?

Recently replaced the 12v battery on my device without seeing any issues during disconnection. I had to re-enter my phone and Toyota account information on the main page, but the vehicle retained most other settings.

It is beneficial to be informed. Thank you for the elucidation.

I encountered the identical issue with my ALFA 156 V6 Veloce 2.5 Busso. It required some time for me to comprehend it. Under typical driving conditions and loads, it functioned adequately; but, at elevated RPMs and loads, when attempting to circulate the water more rapidly, it overheated until I reduced speed, contrary to expectations given the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. The issue was identified as the water pump. The plastic impeller of the water pump was slipping on the shaft under load, obstructing the water flow. Upon replacing the pump, I was able to manipulate the impeller on the shaft using merely firm finger pressure. It appears to be a prevalent problem, as the new ALFA authentic replacement pump had a metal impeller affixed to the shaft by soldering. While it may not apply to your situation, I felt compelled to mention it because of the same symptoms. Have you attempted to bleed it to ascertain the presence of an airlock? Have you disassembled any components of the cooling system recently?

I possess the PHEV and regret not selecting the inline 6 instead. I have encountered no problems, except for a recall, but I do not consider the fuel efficiency to justify the trade-off regarding price and resale value. Prior to the expiration of the tax advantage, they offered absurd lease options for anyone wishing to experience the product before making a purchase. I am pleased to be merely leasing my. I appreciate the vehicle but would prefer to forgo the powerplant.

Indeed, that is my apprehension. I am unaware of what they towed. If they were towing an inappropriate load, it could have exerted additional strain on the gearbox. Do you believe that the fluid change is warranted?