Spiderer

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In your opinion, what should I do? Do I need to get a replacement plastic surround or can I just put a new number plate on the car? Would love to hear your comments on this.

The plastic casing for the license plate that fastens to the front of most cars is what I'm curious about. Due to a damaged spigot or clip, it can only be fastened securely on one side of the corner.

I removed it earlier today and realised I'll have to acquire a replacement license plate.

Hi, Somehow, yesterday I managed to bang my CLK's front end. The damage is slight, but the number plate was hit the hardest.

A "Nissan thing" seems to be at the root of the inaccurate mpg indications. My petrol gauge is currently reading 24 mpg (or it was yesterday; however, I have been on a number of brief shopping excursions recently). My claim that my gets an average of 35mpg is based on the amount I have filled up the tank over the course of several months and the miles I have driven. Since I'm no longer employed, my annual mileage is just around 5,000 miles. I like my car because it allows me to do decent runs with my caravan on the back without having to top off as often as I would ordinarily. There must be the same wind resistance because the frontal area is as vast as a big twin-axle caravan, even though it isn't a particularly large caravan. Just keep track of your gasoline consumption and mileage; I doubt I would give any credence to the mpg indicators. That is my profession. You are likely getting more miles per gallon than you realise if you are relying solely on the gauge.

I realise this doesn't add much, but I was simply expressing my astonishment that a vehicle of this recent era isn't significantly more fuel efficient than mine. It seems to be significantly less so.

Holy cow! Unsatisfactory fuel economy in the 20s! In my mind, these newer ones should be far more frugal. With mostly local journeys during this time of year, my 18-year-old T31 diesel auto gets around 35mpg on average. Also, it has travelled 144,000 miles.

... not yet. The temperature gauge should remain stable until it reaches the appropriate temperature; thus, any fluctuations indicate considerable variance. My initial action would be to substitute the thermostat and purge the radiator. The pump presents a compelling option; perhaps an expert will arrive shortly to verify whether this is a recognised issue with the engine.

The first character from the left is a letter. It represents a month of the year. A represents January; B denotes February; C signifies March, and so on. The second number from the left denotes the year the battery was sent from the plant. 4 corresponds to 2004, 5 corresponds to 2005, 6 corresponds to 2006, 7 corresponds to 2007, 8 corresponds to 2008, 9 corresponds to 2009, 0 corresponds to 2010, 1 corresponds to 2011, 2 corresponds to 2012, and so forth.

Examine your primary 12v battery as well. When my device reached eight years of age, it failed to maintain the auxiliary battery's charge.

Many smaller manufacturers excel at scavenging components from parts bins. Years ago, I had a buddy who had an ancient Maserati—though I cannot recall the specific model—that required a clutch replacement. The authentic piece from Masser was, undoubtedly, exorbitantly priced. However, after doing some investigation, he found that it was, in fact, the same unit that was installed in the Bedford CF van.

I currently have one available for sale.

Outcome. It is unfortunate that you did not check there before to purchasing new batteries; nonetheless, you are assured of sufficient longevity in that regard for many years.

Cold conditions will consistently deplete an aged battery.