
Sumoto
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Everything posted by Sumoto
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The dome-shaped plastic should simply detach. Ensure it is unobstructed and that the little arm behind the cover is not ajar.
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A thorough cleaning may also be beneficial.
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Allow your wife to operate the vehicle and get a superior option for yourself.
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Did you acquire the vehicle with diminished power, or did you have the DPF and EGR systems reprogrammed, resulting in satisfactory performance thereafter?
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Variations in tire tread depths exceeding a few millimeters between the front and rear tyres, as well as between tyres on the same axle, may lead to comparable troubles, since the transfer box is adversely affected by such discrepancies.
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X drive versus conventional rear-wheel drive?
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I was bewildered as I saw the continuous release of each subsequent model from 2010 forward, including the GT LMX Le Mans, among others.
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Such is the consequence of cutting-edge technology: chain malfunctions, injector failures, and engine components of inferior durability in diesel engines.
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"I am uncertain about the specific services performed prior to purchasing the vehicle from Sytner." It is likely that insufficient effort was expended, since merchants often do the minimal necessary to sell old inventory. It may have had an oil change, oil filter replacement, and air filter replacement, but likely not much more. This inevitably brings up the contentious issue of the seven-year warranty. If it was sold with an active warranty and you paid a premium for this condition, ensure you possess an updated document of proper service under the Kia schedule. Kia is stringent on this matter and will reject any warranty claims for service issues not addressed promptly. They have also been known to advocate for any other things, even if they are not serviceable, despite the fact that non-serviceable objects are intended to be covered anyway. An instance of this might be an ECU or a door actuator, which is often anticipated to last for 7 years without maintenance.
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My 2012 Venga with a 4-speed automatic gearbox now achieves 23 mpg or less during this season. The Sportage's greater weight renders sub-20 mpg unsurprising. I mostly engage in urban driving, with trips often under 2 miles, save for a monthly travel of 30 miles (15 miles each way). We typically drive around 3,000 miles annually, so it is not an issue for us. Due to disability concerns, I am unable to walk, and public transport is not a viable option in my area. I would be pleased to adopt a hybrid or electric vehicle, but it is financially unfeasible for me. I recommend examining common culprits such as sticky callipers or the handbrake, if you have not done so before.
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My 2017 Chevrolet Orlando 1.8 LS is experiencing issues with the infotainment system; first, the volume control panel became unresponsive, and subsequently, the whole system intermittently powers on or remains off upon engine start. What may the issue be?
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Fractured pipe it seems
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you need to replace abs
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Is it typical for a turbocharger to malfunction after 70,000 miles?
Sumoto replied to NarrativePsych's topic in General
I think they got broken after 100k miles -
Diagrams may not always accurately depict the components, therefore use caution in placing excessive trust on them.
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Can you upload an audio file?
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If it is an Aisin automatic gearbox, it is likely that the gearbox is defective, since it is notably substandard. Before exploring choices, I will definitely have another individual connect BMW diagnostics to get a second view.
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My A5 is a normal Coupe, not a Convertible. The vehicle remains still, and hence, no water is emanating from the wheel wells or splashing. I suspected the huge rubber stoppers that cushion the boot lid from slamming, so I applied sealant around them, as well as the little rubber skirts on the lip of the boot at the rear lights, in case water runoff was entering there. However, after a little rainfall, more water accumulates in the side compartments of the trunk. The investigation into the flooding was temporarily suspended while the issues with the EPB and airbag faults intensified, resulting in many fault codes, malfunctioning lights, and a key lodged in the key-fob socket. It is undoubtedly water runoff from an external source that is infiltrating the area. I am also persuaded that the water served as the trigger for these events, while it may not have been the primary cause of the EPB and airbag malfunction; rather, it undoubtedly contributed to the subsequent problems. I will be working on Christmas Eve but will be available on Boxing Day to further investigate and attempt to limit down the options. I will also use the emery paper technique on the fuses to check for any changes in symptoms. Is there anybody who knows what regulates the lighting? I have not seen any fuse description that corresponds to a connection for headlights or information on the relay and its location. Or is it everything only processed via the central convenience module? Identical inquiry about the Ignition... From whence does it get the authority to release the key? Fuse/Relay for the solenoid. Am I correct in recalling that a single click down on the key fob initiates the car's ignition? Is it unnecessary to maintain pressure on the key until the device initiates? I am very certain that my need to keep the key engaged is a recent development. Additionally, when the ignition is switched off, do I recall properly that the steering lock engages, preventing the wheel from turning beyond the two designated locking points? Due to the absence of a distinct "click" and the wheel's failure to "lock," it becomes very rigid without any discernible point of resistance in either direction. However, it may be rotated with considerable force. This may pertain to my key fob not disengaging from the ignition, since I suspect that the use of the steering lock is necessary for the ignition solenoid to release the key fob. It is possible that the ignition is not the issue, and the steering lock may be the culprit. My head is throbbing; I apologise if yours is as well. 😄
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It seems so; however, my amplifier, satellite navigation system, and radio are positioned much above any water level, therefore I am very certain that water cannot be responsible for the abrupt communication failure. Two days ago, the MMI activated briefly, allowing me to choose between radio stations and use the satnav, however it remained in silent mode permanently. It has not been fried, despite its appearance suggesting such. Two days later, the screen would not power on again. puzzling conundrum
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I will certainly attempt this straightforward task! The connections exhibited little discolouration, although there were no evident indications that would impede the passage of current; still, it is certainly worth attempting! In the meanwhile, please continue to provide me with recommendations.
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Greetings, everyone! Opted to register rather than remain a prolonged observer. My vehicle is a 2009 Audi 3.0 TDI Quattro Automatic. A little problem has developed into a significant one. I was transporting my small daughter to the hospital due to her respiratory distress when I received a warning for an electronic parking brake failure, accompanied by an airbag warning light on the dashboard. It is noteworthy that the doors simultaneously unlocked. I suspected potential dampness or an imperfect connection in one of the EPB motors, since I had replaced the rear brake pads three months before. Upon deactivating the ignition at the hospital, the warning light extinguished for around ten minutes upon restarting the vehicle, only to reemerge thereafter. Subsequently, it would manifest with each engine start, but only after I had driven for 30 to 60 seconds. Subsequently, that day, my sound system entered a "mute" state, with none of the standard buttons functioning to restore sound to my MMI devices. I purchased VAGCOM for diagnostic purposes. During my diagnostic fault-finding process, I examined all accessible fuses but identified no issues. I detached the 32-pin connection at the passenger side door hinge corner to ensure it was correctly positioned in the connector. After inspecting each fuse with the ignition off and reseating them, I attempted to start the engine. However, instead of just inserting the key fob into the dash socket and pressing once to initiate the engine, I had to hold the key fob down for the starting motor to engage. I currently have 11 distinct "light malfunctions" shown on the dashboard, and my MMI screen is permanently nonfunctional. The Vagcom scan revealed several "under voltage" issues. I opted to recharge the battery as it was depleted, necessitating a jump start from the front booster connectors using my wife's vehicle, which is also a 3L model, therefore the batteries are comparable in amp-hour capacity. Upon installing the new flooded lead acid battery, it lacked a BEM code. I researched many forums and discovered that the vehicle will automatically recognise the new battery. Anticipated that the new battery would resolve all the concerns; nevertheless, it proved ineffective and made no discernible improvement. I am seeing a little battery drain, as this new battery depletes from 100% to 20% after around 4 to 5 days. The key remains in the ignition and cannot be removed; over ten bulbs are nonfunctional despite being in good condition. The airbag warning activates simultaneously with the EPB failure. I discovered a little accumulation of water in the side panels of my boot, where the electrical components are located. I removed the bungs to prevent water from collecting temporarily and inspected the amplifier assembly and navigation slot for water damage or loose wiring; everything seemed to be in order. Today, I removed the wires tied to the driver's side boot panel, since that was the location of the water intrusion. I examined the wires for any cracking or corrosion of the wire sleeves, but found no issues. I am utterly exasperated by this situation. This has persisted for five weeks. I get one day off each week, and it is consistently dark when I go out on that day to investigate the matter. I will provide my whole vehicle scan findings below and seek guidance or suggestions on how to proceed, since I like to avoid visiting a dealership; the vehicle is likely better suited for scrapping. The automobile is great, and I have maintained it diligently over the years, encountering no troubles apart from wear and use. I would be disappointed to lose my vehicle due to an unforeseen and likely trivial matter. The central convenience module consistently appears with the airbag control module on various issues in the VCDS scan. Assistance required urgently! I appreciate any forthcoming ideas.
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It depends; if you have invested a substantial amount and want to retain it, then I would recommend having it serviced, similar to the maintenance of the gearbox and transfer case.
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This is often seen in older vehicles equipped with a distributor. Have you confirmed that you have not reversed the coil pack loom, causing the bank one to be connected to bank two? I cannot definitively ascertain the feasibility of this situation, but I am finding it challenging to comprehend the potential occurrences, given the meticulousness with which you seem to have approached the matter. It seems that the position of the crank trigger wheel has shifted, however this scenario is quite unlikely.