Tactical

Issue with the thread's title. Completely recorded cam/followers. The sound of an engine cranking or ticking. Later models have upgraded parts. Metal of low quality or perhaps not lubricated enough. The German automaker Mercedes is aware of the issues. It is not common practice to change the oil and filter every 4,500 miles on vehicles with such low mileage.

I made the problem public. Myocardial infarction expert recommended giving it a go. Serviced every 4300 miles due to mechanical failure at 43,000 miles. Can you believe it? It's terrible. It seems to be a widely recognized and recorded failure.

My 2016 Mercedes-Benz was serviced at a Mercedes specialist in Bradford when it had 43000 miles. Around 4,300 miles per year. The specialist has three vehicles in for the same purpose. One has 85,000 miles on it, two have high mileage, and one has missed a couple of service appointments. Given the vehicle's low mileage and service history, they suggested contacting Mercedes-Leeds to inquire about a possible cost reduction. In order to accomplish this, I must bring it to the main dealer for diagnosis. Now I understand why. However, with Mercedes Germany's high likelihood of refusing assistance, is it worth spending £190.00 on a diagnostic? The self-reliant should be the one to carry out the tasks. Warm regards

Yeah, my 24-register PHEV nearly ran me over and into a parked car.

Will turning the plugs on again (I mean, letting them light twice before ignition) do anything? Nothing changed after I tried this. The sound and sensation are constant, and I can't tell that the weather is changing either. Regarding the coolant temperature sensor, I used the diagnostic program I mentioned before to check all of the sensors' readings; upon cold start, every single one showed the same reading as the outside temperature. It simply doesn't idle at high enough RPMs; when I mentioned that it felt rough, I didn't mean that it coughed or sputtered. It usually hovers around the 1000 mark. It typically gets by on its own when I press and hold the accelerator for three or four minutes, which brings it up a bit. I need to restart the tool and collect all the values before I can share them with you.

Hello, I appreciate your recommendation. That Partsouq even existed before I knew it. I am impressed by your discovery.

Hi there, My Kia C'eed has had this problem with idling smoothly for years, and I only just noticed it a few weeks ago. At first, I attributed it to the bitterly cold mornings, but now that the mercury is higher, I can't get it to rev up to idle smoothly. Occasionally, it sounds normal again, but like I mentioned, it's the exception these days; to help it along, I have to rev it up a bit to prevent that rough idling. One of the sensors on my diagnostic machine read 108C, which is obviously wrong when I start the car from a cold start. Maybe this is the root of the problem. I tried turning off all the visible and accessible sensors to see if their live data would go awry, but none of the three did manage to alter the 108C. "Exhaust gas temperature valve pre particulate filter" is the name of the sensor to which you may be referring. Is this one plugged in but hidden from view? If you have any suggestions on where I might look for the issue, I would be eternally grateful. Just so you know, the MAF sensor is one of the most blatantly responsible parts of this. I took it apart to clean it with the right stuff, but it's designed so that we can't get a spray nozzle near it; I prayed it would do the trick, but alas, it didn't.

The 0w 20 has been standard on Kia vehicles for a while now, although I doubt it was an option when yours was being manufactured. It was created for hybrid vehicles (0w 20). The dealer probably installs it in most of the cars they repair because of how outstanding the specs are. While 5w-30 would work, it could be more cost-effective to use 0w-20 to avoid altering the oil's characteristics if that's what the dealer is recommending (go to your service invoice for confirmation). The thinner oil is designed to protect smart stream direct injection engines from heat buildup and to lubricate stop-start engines, so you shouldn't worry about it not being healthy for yours. I have used Pretronus to top up my previous two sportages because it was reasonably priced and excellent enough for Lewis Hamilton's vehicle.

Missed EML, floored it again tonight, and everything appeared to be fine. About 180 xxx km. Have a day or two off, so I'm going to go for a nice drive. Just lately, I cleaned the injector. It misfired severely during that process, as if it were about to stall or stop but then turned off.

My 2004 C180K m271 is fine up until I let go of the handle, at which point it starts misfiring and won't stop till I switch it off. Once it starts up again, I'm not sure what to check first. Any suggestions? The lowlifes just busted my door window in an attempt to take my radar detector. I'm upset with them.

Yes, mine was opening and then gradually drooping down, making it so that I hit my head almost every time, and it got worse over time. never worried my five-foot wife, though.

In your picture on the right, you can see the inset plastic panel. That pops off. Under it, you can access the connection. Simply use a plastic trimmer or anything thin and flexible that isn't made of metal. Additionally, you don't have to touch the duct at the bottom of your picture. The wires at the top carry all of the control wiring.

It's completely plug and play and very simple to install. 1) Tailgate 2) Of course, support it. 3) Remove the plastic coverings on both sides of the tailboard (the connection is behind them). 4) Feed the wire out the sides and unplug the old ones. 5) The strut itself comes out with a little tug when the retaining metal spring clip is removed. 6) For the new ones, the same in reverse 7) finished—no programming and everything is in order.

After a year, the replacement struts I installed from an eBay provider are still in fantastic condition. incredibly simple. And up until the original ones failed, they were on par with the OEMs. The only problem is that I pre-wrapped the wire in an extra shroud or tape before installation because I thought the wiring shroud was flimsy and prone to splitting.

I have possessed an E92 320i equipped with 17-inch run-flat tires. I installed regular tires after the run-flats required replacement. The riding was satisfactory on the highways of UK towns. I believe that equipping the car with 16-inch wheels would render it aesthetically unappealing, given its coupe design. The E92 was offered with 17-inch wheels as an option, hence they would not provide any complications. The 17-inch tires I possessed were of a square configuration, perhaps 225/45/17, and those tires were significantly less expensive than the staggered setup on the rear. The ride in my current 420i Msport with 18-inch run-flat tires is considerably firmer. I anticipate the day I can replace them with standard tires.