Sumoto

Can you upload an audio file?

If it is an Aisin automatic gearbox, it is likely that the gearbox is defective, since it is notably substandard. Before exploring choices, I will definitely have another individual connect BMW diagnostics to get a second view.

My A5 is a normal Coupe, not a Convertible. The vehicle remains still, and hence, no water is emanating from the wheel wells or splashing. I suspected the huge rubber stoppers that cushion the boot lid from slamming, so I applied sealant around them, as well as the little rubber skirts on the lip of the boot at the rear lights, in case water runoff was entering there. However, after a little rainfall, more water accumulates in the side compartments of the trunk. The investigation into the flooding was temporarily suspended while the issues with the EPB and airbag faults intensified, resulting in many fault codes, malfunctioning lights, and a key lodged in the key-fob socket. It is undoubtedly water runoff from an external source that is infiltrating the area. I am also persuaded that the water served as the trigger for these events, while it may not have been the primary cause of the EPB and airbag malfunction; rather, it undoubtedly contributed to the subsequent problems. I will be working on Christmas Eve but will be available on Boxing Day to further investigate and attempt to limit down the options. I will also use the emery paper technique on the fuses to check for any changes in symptoms. Is there anybody who knows what regulates the lighting? I have not seen any fuse description that corresponds to a connection for headlights or information on the relay and its location. Or is it everything only processed via the central convenience module? Identical inquiry about the Ignition... From whence does it get the authority to release the key? Fuse/Relay for the solenoid. Am I correct in recalling that a single click down on the key fob initiates the car's ignition? Is it unnecessary to maintain pressure on the key until the device initiates? I am very certain that my need to keep the key engaged is a recent development. Additionally, when the ignition is switched off, do I recall properly that the steering lock engages, preventing the wheel from turning beyond the two designated locking points? Due to the absence of a distinct "click" and the wheel's failure to "lock," it becomes very rigid without any discernible point of resistance in either direction. However, it may be rotated with considerable force. This may pertain to my key fob not disengaging from the ignition, since I suspect that the use of the steering lock is necessary for the ignition solenoid to release the key fob. It is possible that the ignition is not the issue, and the steering lock may be the culprit. My head is throbbing; I apologise if yours is as well. 😄

It seems so; however, my amplifier, satellite navigation system, and radio are positioned much above any water level, therefore I am very certain that water cannot be responsible for the abrupt communication failure. Two days ago, the MMI activated briefly, allowing me to choose between radio stations and use the satnav, however it remained in silent mode permanently. It has not been fried, despite its appearance suggesting such. Two days later, the screen would not power on again. puzzling conundrum

I will certainly attempt this straightforward task! The connections exhibited little discolouration, although there were no evident indications that would impede the passage of current; still, it is certainly worth attempting! In the meanwhile, please continue to provide me with recommendations.

Greetings, everyone! Opted to register rather than remain a prolonged observer. My vehicle is a 2009 Audi 3.0 TDI Quattro Automatic. A little problem has developed into a significant one. I was transporting my small daughter to the hospital due to her respiratory distress when I received a warning for an electronic parking brake failure, accompanied by an airbag warning light on the dashboard. It is noteworthy that the doors simultaneously unlocked. I suspected potential dampness or an imperfect connection in one of the EPB motors, since I had replaced the rear brake pads three months before. Upon deactivating the ignition at the hospital, the warning light extinguished for around ten minutes upon restarting the vehicle, only to reemerge thereafter. Subsequently, it would manifest with each engine start, but only after I had driven for 30 to 60 seconds. Subsequently, that day, my sound system entered a "mute" state, with none of the standard buttons functioning to restore sound to my MMI devices. I purchased VAGCOM for diagnostic purposes. During my diagnostic fault-finding process, I examined all accessible fuses but identified no issues. I detached the 32-pin connection at the passenger side door hinge corner to ensure it was correctly positioned in the connector. After inspecting each fuse with the ignition off and reseating them, I attempted to start the engine. However, instead of just inserting the key fob into the dash socket and pressing once to initiate the engine, I had to hold the key fob down for the starting motor to engage. I currently have 11 distinct "light malfunctions" shown on the dashboard, and my MMI screen is permanently nonfunctional. The Vagcom scan revealed several "under voltage" issues. I opted to recharge the battery as it was depleted, necessitating a jump start from the front booster connectors using my wife's vehicle, which is also a 3L model, therefore the batteries are comparable in amp-hour capacity. Upon installing the new flooded lead acid battery, it lacked a BEM code. I researched many forums and discovered that the vehicle will automatically recognise the new battery. Anticipated that the new battery would resolve all the concerns; nevertheless, it proved ineffective and made no discernible improvement. I am seeing a little battery drain, as this new battery depletes from 100% to 20% after around 4 to 5 days. The key remains in the ignition and cannot be removed; over ten bulbs are nonfunctional despite being in good condition. The airbag warning activates simultaneously with the EPB failure. I discovered a little accumulation of water in the side panels of my boot, where the electrical components are located. I removed the bungs to prevent water from collecting temporarily and inspected the amplifier assembly and navigation slot for water damage or loose wiring; everything seemed to be in order. Today, I removed the wires tied to the driver's side boot panel, since that was the location of the water intrusion. I examined the wires for any cracking or corrosion of the wire sleeves, but found no issues. I am utterly exasperated by this situation. This has persisted for five weeks. I get one day off each week, and it is consistently dark when I go out on that day to investigate the matter. I will provide my whole vehicle scan findings below and seek guidance or suggestions on how to proceed, since I like to avoid visiting a dealership; the vehicle is likely better suited for scrapping. The automobile is great, and I have maintained it diligently over the years, encountering no troubles apart from wear and use. I would be disappointed to lose my vehicle due to an unforeseen and likely trivial matter. The central convenience module consistently appears with the airbag control module on various issues in the VCDS scan. Assistance required urgently! I appreciate any forthcoming ideas.

It depends; if you have invested a substantial amount and want to retain it, then I would recommend having it serviced, similar to the maintenance of the gearbox and transfer case.

This is often seen in older vehicles equipped with a distributor. Have you confirmed that you have not reversed the coil pack loom, causing the bank one to be connected to bank two? I cannot definitively ascertain the feasibility of this situation, but I am finding it challenging to comprehend the potential occurrences, given the meticulousness with which you seem to have approached the matter. It seems that the position of the crank trigger wheel has shifted, however this scenario is quite unlikely.

I am astonished that such an incident occurred during a test drive, but you still want to purchase the vehicle. If I were to have any uncertainties about an automobile, it would preoccupy my thoughts and detract from the pleasure of owning a new vehicle. The age-old cautionary saying 'buyer beware' remains valid; I would recommend distancing oneself and seeking alternatives. Nevertheless, it is important to note that the statement I made is subjective and may not be universally agreed upon.

If the substance is really the appropriate one, then make use of it. The comma is of satisfactory quality.

The alphanumeric code A2102700296 corresponds to the specific component number. Additionally, the accompanying picture is associated with item 30.

Currently, I possess the knowledge that I previously lacked, and I am unsure of the reason for my previous oversight. Thank you.

I own an E430, which I have really enjoyed having for a duration of four years. Presently, it is inoperable and causing me significant distress, for which I need assistance. After recently spending a significant amount of money on maintenance and welding to pass the MOT, I am now facing a difficult situation. The car is unable to return to the road since it lacks a single radiator pipe, which is presently not accessible from either Mercedes or other suppliers. If I am unable to get this pipe, I will have to discard it...and it is of significantly high quality to do so! The children have been subject to limited access. If you are able to assist me in locating the origin of this pipe, either by obtaining it from a damaged E430 vehicle or by identifying a skilled professional who can create it to order, kindly inform me. Regrettably, due to my failure to reach the threshold of 30 posts, I am unable to respond to any postings, therefore ensuring that I am not intentionally disregarding your messages. Thank you, I am hopeful.

There is no doubt that the engine is of German origin. Who possesses whom? The ownership of Lamborghini is held by the VW Group. The VW Group is of German origin. Therefore, the engine is of German origin.

I also replaced my Yaris; everything went smoothly, and my mechanic performed an excellent job.

I am referring to the socket located at the front of the cooler, not the converter on top of it. The breather pipe allows unmeasured air to enter, disrupting the air and exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) balance. The DDE system relies on a certain quantity of air based on the mass airflow (MAF) measurement and a specific amount of EGR based on the opening amount. However, if the system pulls in unmeasured air, it leads to operational problems and triggers plausibility codes. It is possible that you have a valve or converter issue, however it is not possible to precisely evaluate due to the divided pipe.

Is the plug at the front the one you are referring to? If such is the case, it is often due to the use of a pressure converter for the cooler bypass. I can identify the difficulty you are experiencing. The split breather pipe is causing issues with the engine's operation and is affecting the plausibility of the EGR and MAS air flow. I would suggest replacing the breather pipe, clearing any error codes, and then assessing the situation to determine its effectiveness.

Could you please provide a photograph of your item so that I may better understand its appearance, since I am having difficulty visualising it based on your description. The previous version of my vehicle, the n47d20a, was equipped with an electronic exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, but also featured a vacuum-controlled cooler bypass. In some older models, a vacuum EGR valve was also included.

Those are the ones! Yes, I do attach extra pieces to the upper edge of them, allowing them to be placed wherever. I was previously only familiar with Heko, then I came across Ispeed, which had positive ratings. I decided to give it a try, and so far, it has been satisfactory.

The ones I purchased, which I believe are speed line or a similar brand, included metal clips. However, the heko ones I previously had on both my Astra's (Mk3 and 5) did not come with clips. Instead, I used double-sided tape to secure them and kept the windows closed for 24 hours to ensure proper bonding of the adhesive. I never encountered any problems with them shifting or moving. I have used the same procedure to my insignia and, so far, I have not encountered any problems (hopefully, that will continue to be the case).

I have had no problems with mine. If the window sashes are properly positioned in the window channel, they will not interfere with the operation of opening or shutting the windows.

Considering the possibility of acquiring someone else's issues.

Requesting a new coat of paint! Laugh out loud, flee. Consider this a cautionary notice.

This is the issue. The lock you installed is not an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) product, but rather a poorly built Chinese imitation. As said before, I would always choose a used OEM item over low-quality Chinese alternatives.