Ledgerciao

Recalling (I think there's a comparable thread on the forum somewhere) An Audi is the way to go. Ask yourself this: how many contemporary Audis had steel wheels?

Due to the PCD's utter mistake, the Nissan and Ford option cannot be pursued.

I'm in the market for a new vehicle and am prioritising durability and dependability. Which is better, a petrol or diesel? I can't make up my mind. On my way to work, I appreciate a diesel's torque and fuel efficiency, but I'm anxious about DPF and other breakdowns because: 30 minutes to cover 9 miles on A roads In the evening, I have a five-mile trek to the gym, which takes twenty minutes more. The mileage is 7,000 miles per year. Once a week, I'm willing to put in the extra effort to drive 45 minutes to an hour on the highway. Is this going to make up for the earlier brief trips? Is this not a certainty, though? I have also heard that diesels may have trouble meeting emission standards in the long run due to soot building up in the intake manifolds, but I'm not sure if this is true or not. I am considering the following engines: (These will be relatively fresh) 1) CLA 200 1.3 L (I know this one from Renault!) Model 282 At high rpm, though, I've heard nothing but bad things about this engine. The CLA 220d 2.0 L OM654 I've heard that they're dealing with problems with their timing chains and diesel engines. 3) 2023 plate CLA 35 AMG M260 I'm not sure if the cylinder head issues have been resolved in the 2023 model or if there is still a risk of them. I've heard that these have problems. Whenever possible, I've stayed away from models that use 48-volt mild hybrid technology. Do you think these will be costly and troublesome in the long run? Would you say that mild hybrid technology or diesal technology is the more problematic of the two? Which poison should I use? I'm not sure.

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My sincere appreciation

I need to know the best way to change the radiator hoses on my 1996 Geo Tracker 1.6 engine.

It is difficult to even see, much less reach, the lower hose on the engine block. Which components of the engine must be removed?

The lower radiator hose on my 1996 Geo Tracker 2-door has blown. I need to know how to replace them.

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I had to use three hands to get the valve body out of its housing and make sure the gear selector pin engaged with the plastic gear selector while I laid flat under the car and replaced the conductor plate, and I lost roughly 5.5 litres of gearbox fluid doing so. The specification calls for a torque of 8 Nm for the bolts that hold the body in place, which worries me because I've never thought they were tight enough. I have done some road testing, and everything seems to be in order. Now I just need to bring the gearbox to 80C (using the scan tool on the passenger seat), which takes an incredibly long time, so I can check the fluid level. Hopefully it's done, but I hope we won't have to talk too soon.

Since the aftermarket parts are only around £80 extra, I opted against ordering them and instead ordered them from the dealer. They should arrive on Tuesday. Good idea about the torque converter; I'll remove the rubber bung and take a look. I doubt it has one, though. I will let you know how it turns out.

From what I can tell from my quick Google search, the 200K's conductor plate simply needs a scanner to clear the code—the one I already have. Does anyone else have any confirmation on this? If that's the case, I'm considering getting a Febi replacement because I don't want to put too much money into my 23-year-old car. So, say goodbye to a couple curse words, hello to £120 for fluid, filter, and gasket, and £200 for the plate.

I wanted to start a new thread to talk about some problems I've been having with my 2003 CLK 200K. Problems with higher-than-usual rpm during changes have been plaguing me recently. To make a long story short, I opted to check the pilot bushing because I knew this car had a history of leaks. Sure enough, I found leaks, so I replaced the bushing and cleaned the wiring loom and connectors on the TCM. Still no joy; the EML light is on and a P2203 code appears, meaning that the speed sensor 3's internal check failed. I have a question: it seems like the conductor plate or maybe the TCM has failed because of the oil invasion. Do you have any opinions on what you think is most likely? Can someone suggest a reliable independent in the Essex area? I'd prefer to do the work myself (and am more than capable), but I'm afraid I'll need to learn code first. I would greatly appreciate any information you may have.

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For that task, a Dremel would be the right tool to use. Just like I mentioned before, wait to attach the wiper arm after you've let the vehicle run and park before installing the replacement. Otherwise, you might find yourself wiping the number plate again, haha.