Captiva

I couldn't locate a dipstick of the appropriate length that remains in the vehicle. The current one is too long, but I now know where the full mark is. I agree that the design is quite impractical, particularly as substantial disassembly is required before inserting the dipstick.

As far as I know, there is no certain dipstick designated as "correct." The dipstick does not fully insert and remain in the tube like the om642 one. Therefore, you must determine the entire mark position on your own.

The optimal approach is to empty the sump via the drain plug, replenish it with the appropriate amount of oil, and then check the oil level on the dipstick to determine the exact level.

Standing in front of my C43 and 5.0 E500 cars, you would hear significant drive belt whining sounds, but the muffled V8 audio only becomes noticeable beyond 4k. The 5.0 engine has a long-travel throttle and lacks the immediate torque characteristic of a diesel engine. The 5.5 overcomes that issue; when you lightly press the throttle at low engine rpm, it accelerates quickly. It has much greater power than the 5.0 engine over the whole range of revolutions. It reduces the 0-60 time by over a second and the 0-100 time by two seconds. When comparing acceleration times from 0-100 for 5.0, 5.5, and 5.5k, they are around 13.5s, 11.5s, and 9.5s respectively. The 5.5 is positioned nearly precisely midway between the other two in terms of performance. An E500/CLS500 is more akin to a mini-S Class in terms of character rather than an AMG, as discussed in previous forums. If the AMG is equivalent to an RS6, then the E500 might be compared to the S6. You would get a somewhat newer 500 and/or one with less miles per unit of weight if that is significant to you. A few years ago, I found that an E63 was around 25-30% more expensive than an identical E500, considering vehicles of the same age with similar mileage. I would choose a well-maintained version of either a 5.5 or 55K model with a comprehensive service record. It is beneficial to have evidence of maintenance done on the Airmatic system, SBC pump, gearbox flushes, ball joints, and recent disc replacements. Some are treated luxuriously, while others are neglected, and by making wise purchases, you may save spending thousands on upkeep.

Disregard me

As the title suggests. After reading extensively and seeing several evaluations, my mind is now clouded.

5w - 30 completely synthetic oil is OK. Did you use Mobil 1 to refill? Not sure of your expertise in engine oils, so please forgive me if I'm mentioning something you already know. There are three primary types: Fully Synthetic, Semi Synthetic, and Mineral. Manufacturers often suggest fully synthetic oil for its superior protection and ability to lengthen service intervals. There are two varieties of Fully Synthetic oil for diesel engines: one for engines with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) that requires low-ash oil, and another for cars without a DPF that is also good for petrol engines. If you are uncertain about whether your vehicle has a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) installed, provide your 17-digit VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) located on the bottom left side of the windscreen and on the sticker attached to the driver's door 'B' post. Someone will then examine the data card for you. Your mechanic will likely be able to inform you. This page may clarify the selection of MB Approved lubricants for your automobile.

The guidebook does not include capacity, however the USA models should have the same specifications. You may get a UK version on eBay. You may visit one of the oil producers' websites to get the amounts you need. Simply input your registration number, and they will provide you with the capacity. The link provided is: http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_gb/c/search Select the appropriate oil for your vehicle. Shell LubeMatch is a service provided by Shell in the United Kingdom.

You may safely add a further 0.5 litres to reach a total level of 6.3.

Have you considered trying the service mode? It is far more precise than waiting for the phrase "Add Oil" to appear. Refer to the information provided below: Procedure for Checking Oil. Caution: Allow the car to rest for about 5 - 10 minutes after the engine has been running before beginning this operation. 1. Ensure that the display in your cluster is set to the default Mileage and Trip distance, then switch off the ignition. 2. Proceed to position 1 3. Quickly press the 'Reset' push button located on the far left side of the instrument cluster 3 times. The device will emit a sound and display the battery's voltage. 4. Rotate the ignition key clockwise from position 1 to position 2. Press the 'Up Arrow' on the left side of the steering wheel one time. It should display 'Oil level _._l' in the middle display area. Wait about 10 seconds for the oil reading to occur. The measurement will be shown in litres. It is optimal to maintain the level between 6 and 6.3 litres in a C220 CDI. The capacity is 6.5 litres. It is advisable to maintain the level slightly below the maximum to avoid triggering a "Remove Oil" notice

The original poster may have made a mistake by suggesting to the local dealer that the issue existed from the beginning and that the providing dealer recommended resolving it under the Australian warranty. Dealers dislike this situation when certain dealers provide insufficient Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) and then attempt to pass the issue on to other dealers. The amount the OP was charged could have been a punitive cost. If the OP had just brought the vehicle with the defect and not provided the background narrative, the dealer may have prioritised earning a new client for future services above resolving the issue with the supplier dealer.

If someone suggests that you should have stopped the repair after learning it wasn't covered by warranty and contacted them instead to pay your local dealer directly, you can respond by saying that no one instructed you to do so.

"What are my rights after 30 days?"If an issue arises within 30 days and six months after purchase, you are eligible to ask for a repair or a replacement car. The seller of the automobile must establish that the issue did not exist when the car was sold. If they can do so and it is probable that you were aware of the fault, you will not get a refund. Requesting a new vehicle in this situation would have been excessive, however you should definitely seek reimbursement for the repair costs from the providing dealer, since they advised you to take the car to your local dealer. I would recommend sending an email to the company stating that you followed their advice and had the car inspected by your local dealer. The repair needed was not covered by warranty, and you are requesting a refund for the cost as they are responsible for the repair under the Consumer Protection Act 2015. Attached is the repair bill for reference.

a. They are only permitted to charge you an inspection fee if you have given prior consent. It is probable that you signed certain papers when you rented the automobile, and the fine print may include an inspection price. Request a copy if you have signed any documents. If you did not provide your signature, you are entitled to request a refund as you should have been given prior notice on the possible expenses. If you made a payment using a Credit Card and the dealer is unwilling to cooperate, you may request a refund from the Credit Card issuer after attempting to resolve the matter with the dealer. If a vehicle was bought within the last 6 months and a defect appears within this time, it is presumed to have been present at the time of purchase until proved otherwise. According to the Consumer Rights Act 2015, the dealer must repair the issue at no cost to the consumer. You may still make a claim under this section after the first 6-month term has ended if you can demonstrate that you reported the matter to the dealer before the initial 6-month period elapsed. This issue is not related to the manufacturer's warranty but rather to consumer protection laws. Therefore, it is only a problem between you and the dealer who sold you the product. No other Mercedes-Benz dealer or the Mercedes-Benz Approved Used warranty is included. Insist that the supplying dealer reimburse you for the amount you paid to the local dealer, using the Consumer Protection Act 2015. The supplying dealer technically has the right to ask you to return the car to them. However, in this situation, they actually recommended you to go to a local dealer. They made this suggestion under the mistaken assumption that the local dealer would fix the issue for free. This mistake is the responsibility of the supplying dealer. If the supplying dealer refuses to repay you and you have paid with a Credit Card, you may seek the refund from your Credit Card issuer. This illustrates the risks of purchasing a Mercedes-Benz vehicle from a distant Mercedes-Benz dealership. The MB Approved Used warranty does not cover defects that should have been identified and fixed before delivery. Your local dealer may have waived the inspection cost if you had purchased the automobile from them. However, dealers get upset when they are requested to fix warranty issues that should have been addressed by other dealers before the sale. Good luck.

Undoubtedly, diesel is more expensive than petrol, a factor to consider when evaluating fuel efficiency in terms of miles per gallon. What matters to me is that a 7-year-old petrol Mercedes with low mileage is a well-established choice in terms of expected dependability and future longevity (considered to have been little used), whereas a first-generation hybrid of the same age is significantly riskier.

If the automobile is classified as a Mercedes 'Approved Used' vehicle, the guarantee provided is of exceptional quality and will protect you against any issues that may arise during the first year. In essence, it is comparable to the 3-year warranty offered for brand new cars. However, I would refrain from purchasing one for long-term ownership due to the increasing likelihood of malfunctions with age. If I had the option, I would not purchase a 7-year-old EU6 diesel vehicle that is equipped with AdBlue, much alone one that is connected to a first-generation hybrid system. It is important to note that Li Ion battery packs deteriorate with time, not merely with consumption. This particular item will reach the age of 8 years at the time when the guarantee ceases to be valid. I distinctly recall a price estimate of £14,000 being mentioned for a potential replacement, and there is some uncertainty over the availability of such replacements from Mercedes. If the HV battery dies, the vehicle will not be able to drive at all.

Historically, early Mercedes hybrids such as the C300h and C350e were not renowned for their dependability. A cursory search will reveal several accounts of battery malfunctions and other related problems. In my opinion, it was not a wise decision to combine a sophisticated EU6 diesel engine, which is notorious for its AdBlue issues, with a sophisticated hybrid system. Regarding the economy, we offer a more streamlined 2019 C300 (petrol) that achieves a fuel efficiency of 45+ mpg throughout a satisfactory journey.

I do not own any photographs that might be of assistance. If you lack confidence in your ability to interpret anything, it is advisable to refrain from further examination and instead seek the assistance of a competent specialist.

Have you already extracted the pumps? It is not necessary to remove the tank in order to do so. You elevate the backrest of the bench seats and get entry via the service covers. The pump units themselves are responsible for transferring the gasoline over the saddle. There seems to be a malfunction with these.

Have you physically removed the pump/senders to verify the presence of fuel? Given that there are 26 litres of fuel in the tank, I would anticipate the gauge to display a greater number of bars than only 3. It is possible that you have an inaccurate fuel gauge reading, and the vehicle is simply running out of petrol. During the era of the OM 646, we had a problem related to the collapse of the venturi in the fuel tank, which prevented the proper swirling of gasoline from the left side to the right side of the saddle. The issue occurred inside the senders.

Delivery pressure refers to the condition where the system will initiate as long as the high pressure side is functioning. Is it correct to believe that the engine is turning over but not igniting?

I have not seen this issue on the 213 model, but on the prior 211 and 212 versions, the pumps located in the tank were responsible for venturiing the gasoline over the saddle. If one of the pumps malfunctioned, the venturi also failed, causing the car to exhaust its fuel supply since it was no longer able to extract gasoline from the tank. Have you conducted a direct measurement of the current fuel pressure originating from the tank? For instance, if the minimum required delivery pressure is 3.8 bar, the pump may continue to operate, but if it only produces a pressure of 1.5 bar, it will not be able to provide the appropriate pressure.

The price of £200 for the motor is acceptable. Labour prices for MB vehicles are accessible to all customers prior to purchasing an MB vehicle. "Proper maintenance is not an expense, but rather an investment that yields returns." That is an MB strapline.

Considering the price, I would engage my Member of Parliament to address the situation. The exorbitant cost set by MB is endangering air quality.

The flaps being kept open is the only cause of it. Poor combustion that may or may not be beneficial for your DPF. The optimal approach is to rectify it thoroughly. Disregard the bodgers.