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I will comply.

The plastic link pipe connecting the thermostat housing to the water pump is prone to cracking at the point of insertion. This issue does not often provide any warning signs and may result in a hidden leak while the vehicle is in motion. It is crucial to identify and address this problem before driving, since these engines do not perform well when overheated.

It is becoming more difficult to find...

Simply take a ride and see real-time sensor data with the inserted spacer. This is the optimal method for testing.

Insert a diminutive spacer between the sensor bolt and the bolt hole. If there are no more codes, it indicates that the distance between the sensor and the ring is appropriately or too sensitive.

Yes, it works well at all temperatures. Initially, during the early stages of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), it was common practice to disable it at low temperatures due to the potential for combustion stability issues. Following the dieselgate scandal, which is seen as a method of manipulating emissions tests, manufacturers are required to use exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) unless it can be shown that doing so is not feasible.

The LFA and Carrera GT sound is determined by the number of cylinders, crank configuration, and firing sequence. Not to mention the exhaust, especially if it is a straight pipe configuration.

I was undecided about choosing BC, but ultimately, Signature's customer service convinced me. The process of balancing necessitated the inclusion of little weight, and the wheel quality is exceptional.

The object fractured into three fragments, exhibiting a high degree of fragility and evidently remaining affixed to the vehicle till the present day. I severely taxed my patience by disassembling everything to address the issue, without breaking a single clip, and then this. As you said, investing in a new item results in reduced cleaning requirements and the assurance that it is completely new. It is essential to use caution while affixing the motor to the newly introduced intake manifold.

While I am reluctant to remove the flaps, as Finestey said, it would be more convenient to replace them. It is logical given the amount of miles, and it is evident that it need significant cleaning.

Thank you for your assistance. However, I realised that my explanation was incorrect. The little plastic arm that attaches to the rod of the swirl flaps is barely visible in the picture... Pardon me, but is the diminutive arm or bracket located at the extremity of that? If that is really the case, do they also provide a V6 version?

I just disassembled the intake manifold of my 530d F10 in order to thoroughly clean it, since it has been accumulated 133,000 miles and is now 14 years old, resulting in a noticeable obstruction. Although the polymers used were not excessively damaged, the little plastic arm connecting the swirl flap actuator and intake rod shattered when I detached them. Would it be foolish to believe that I can just replace one arm, or do I need to repair the whole intake manifold at this point? The issue arises as to whether the aftermarket alternatives are satisfactory at a price range of 100-150 quid, as opposed to a second-hand replacement.

Is the parking brake stuck and causing it to bind?

A voltage reduction on a fresh battery the following morning after a 3-hour run is unexpected. Consider testing for a parasitic current draw using an amp metre. Be cautious while doing so. Vehicles may take some time to completely shut down. Ideally, there should be no more than a 30mA draw when the vehicle is totally shut down.

The battery voltage should be around 14 volts while the engine is operating. If it is not, then the battery is not being charged.

What are your future plans, Angurita?

What are your future plans, Angurita?

Today, I took the automobile to the garage, and they thoroughly inspected it to identify the source of the vibration. The ATF was inspected and found to be clean and fresh, which is reassuring. The engine and gearbox mounts have been inspected and found to be in good condition. However, attention is now directed on the pulley at the front of the engine, which seems to be shaking and might be the cause of the issue. Hopefully.

I trust that "sealed for life" has not been completed yet.

Hello everyone, I would appreciate any input from the group. Our 2009 W211e280 sport has just reached 100k miles and had been problem-free until yesterday. After driving 40 miles, I got home and noticed a minor clunk when I placed the vehicle in reverse. While reversing, it seemed like the brakes were sticking at low speed. Upon starting the engine, the vehicle experiences mild jolts and judders while moving at lower speeds. Additionally, there is a sensation of the engine surging slightly while in park. It operates smoothly when driving and changes through the gears adequately. Choosing the opposite option allows me to detect a binding noise. If it were a front-wheel-drive automobile, I would suspect that the drive shafts could be deteriorating, but obviously, this is not the case. The garage where we have it serviced is closed until Monday. I will attempt to use a code reader on it. Does it seem like the torque converter is failing? I would appreciate any guidance or tips. Cheers

Churchill requested £386, a significant increase over the previous year's £241. Purchased with Saga for £279 I have a GT Line S RWD with 6,000 kilometres, and my retired wife is the second driver. In my experience, LV consistently demands excessive amounts in the second year.

Refer to the 'money saving suggestions sticky' article by R8-Stuff with the Denso reference number 471-1505. The component is inexpensive. As Trev said, the costly aspect is the labour required for removing and reinstalling the compressor.

Greetings The heater is functioning well. In my opinion, the moment when the thermostat completely opens is also the time when it takes a considerable amount of time to reach the desired temperature. Not indefinitely, but for a duration that exceeds my accustomed experience with our previous vehicles. I will inspect for a leak by tactile examination, but the subsequent course of action involving the use of fluorescent liquid may be deliberated with the garage. I am hesitant to spend a substantial amount of money on a head gasket repair. One could have expected that pressurising the system with positive air pressure for 15 minutes would have detected a leak. Does anybody have any other thoughts?

Although it is not a Mercedes-Benz, my daughter's Pug 207 from 2012 is otherwise in fine condition. It has a full service history and is a basic but sufficient vehicle that is affordable to operate and insure. 1.4 litre 8-valve petrol engine It is mostly used for short, localised trips. It utilises a coolant. During the first four months of ownership, there were no problems with the vehicle. However, in early December, when she drove it to Reading, which is around 50 miles away, the coolant tank was almost empty. There were no obvious leaks seen on the drive after it remained stationary for many days. Subsequently, I have refilled it on two occasions and entrusted it to the nearby automobile repair shop that I often rely on for servicing my daughters' vehicles. 21 days ago Upon our purchase, a new thermostat housing was installed in the vehicle as part of the servicing it was due for. The garage conducted a pressure test on the housing and confirmed that there were no leaks. Subsequently, they conducted a series of three heat and cool down cycles in their yard, during which there was no decrease in the level of the expansion tank. They did not bill me as it did not consume any of their time and it seemed to need no more resources. An air lock or bubble was detected but resolved on its own, and there have been no issues subsequently (the vehicle has been used for brief trips since then). I went on a little excursion today, and upon my return, the temperature of the object was almost at its optimal level. Surprisingly enough, something noteworthy occurred... The coolant has decreased by half from its original level. The car is satisfactory in all other ways. Given the current state of the coolant, it is probable that the head gasket is the next likely culprit. I would appreciate any guidance prior to contacting the garage on Monday for a discussion.

thx SlayNeo