engrol

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Here are a few pictures of the car; it is rather lovely. You can't refute the smooth ride, low center of gravity, and rapid cornering abilities—I still like my ML63, haha.

Sure thing: - The EGR was dirty, but not completely clogged. I cleaned it anyhow and checked to see if it had any mobility. It does, and after I replaced it, it still didn't help. Even though someone else has previously modified the resistors, I decided to replace it because the connector looked a little oily and because I have 5w rated 4.7kohm resistors. I also taped it with high temperature silicone tape just in case. Regrettably, the issues remain; I am experiencing fuel cut incidents at random with the code 2616-02 and no EML during power outages. Does anyone have any suggestions on whether the actuator needs additional testing or if it should just be replaced?

My friend, Approximately six years ago, when my rear Sam was water damaged and I was scrambling to fix it because the Mrs was about to deliver birth any minute, you offered to assist me out; I hope you're doing well now. I believe that the Mercedes parts team ultimately demonstrated empathy and may have coded it because it was strangely described as "been taken out of its packaging but brand new and put back on the shelf" and didn't require any coding. Thank you, but I'm getting off topic. I'm waiting for the 4.7k ohm resistors to arrive from Amazon, and if they do, we'll move on to EGR instead of tinkering with the actuator. Over the past six years in the ML, I've managed to get by with an average of 12mpg, but as I was writing this, it hit me: the only time I look for an economy car is when something urgent demands it.

Hi there, We still have the ML63, but we're planning to do frequent 560 mile trips, so we figured it was time to get a mile muncher. So, we added a 2009 CLS 320CDI to our fleet. Someone I bought the car from mentioned that it can be a little of a stutter if you're not careful, but that it'll be alright if you're heavy-footed, haha. I knew I was getting a problematic kid since the price reflected that. Everything is fine. The issue: Once warmed up, the car isn't a fan of light footing; doing so causes it to jerk and hit fuel cut. However, you can feel it turning on, and with a reasonable amount of power, it blasts through without jerking. When it's warm, it despises light throttle. My accomplishments thus far: – After applying Stardas, I received code 2616-02. I viewed the live data and noticed that the b60 sensor reads approximately 1 bar at idle, which climbs when boost ramps up, as anticipated. This being said, I went ahead and replaced the sensor with a new one. Up until the car warmed up, it solved the problem... huh. - Checked the intake pipes for air, discovered a split in the MAF pipe at the turbo connection, sealed it with high-temperature silicone tape, and replaced the orange gasket that had chips. - After inspecting the actuator, I can confirm that it operates at 90% at idling and decreases as expected across the rpm range. The actuator appears to be operating as intended. Observed and verified using Stardas real-time data. Various other findings: I don't think the turbo blades ate the gasket because there is very little flexibility in the shaft and no traces of burnt gunk; nonetheless, the blades do exhibit wear and are far from flawless. I have 137k miles on my automobile. The vehicle still shows code 2616-02 and stutters under mild acceleration; it almost seems like it has stopped boosting correctly; it drives like a NA diesel; and only when you apply more throttle does it accelerate like a dream. I'm going to try connecting a 4.7k ohm resistor to the swirl flaps connector to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't work, I'll probably look at the actuator's electronics and physical gears. Apart from that, the car is in excellent shape; no other codes have come up, it pulls strongly and hesitates at full throttle. I can replace the matched actuator and turbo if necessary, but I'd rather check everything on my own first. Do you have any suggestions, fellow Mercs?

Good thread this Always useful seeing real experiences rather than just guessing Not everything online is a scam, just need to be a bit switched on with it

Same as before, base your purchase of a used car on how good you think it is, even if it is 20 years old. Transmission type shouldn't be your main concern. One vehicle may be in excellent enough shape to be considered a "keeper" while the other may be more suited for "parts" even though they are both the same age and specifications.

Thank you. I tried that and even had the two lines connected for 15 minutes to clean the system, but now the malfunction light is back...I don't think there are any bugs in the system, so I might try it again.

Currently, I'm receptive to any and all suggestions, m80! The malfunction light has returned after I cleared the codes and finished the full diagnostic—I'm back to square one!

Thanks for getting back to me. The suspension is functional, but it only works in sport mode; I can't get it to switch to comfort or manual. I get that when something goes wrong, as with the damping sensor, the system will automatically switch to sport mode to prevent further damage. Maybe Icarsoft just doesn't have what it takes to remove the error code, therefore I'll run the diagnostics again.

Hey there, I am to the point where I am tearing my hair out. The Airmatic suspension is functioning well, but it remains stuck in Sport mode and displays a historic damper solenoid error on Icarsoft. Despite deleting it, the fault keeps reappearing. Can I clear all my data and start over?

It doesn't make much noise, and the main problem is that the RPMs dip suddenly before they level out again. Which is illogical because, as you point out, the revs should increase before lowering when clutch slip is present. At some time in the future, I will probably meet with a mechanic, but until then, I should try to record it happening so I can study it better. The vehicle has a clean service history at an MB garage and very little mileage, so it's a real bummer.

This is a six-speed manual gearbox truck. The clutch is sliding, I apologise. With a little more force, it reaches about 3,000 rpm, then abruptly decreases before continuing. The dashboard is error-free, and the car should have been maintained before being handed to me, but I can't verify the exact details.

Salutations Everyone, A 2016 C200 SE with a mere 59,000 miles on the odometer is now mine. It usually drives smoothly and quickly when you want it to, but there's a problem I've been noticing. (I will return to the independent garage from whom I purchased if anyone can suggest a possible solution to my problem.) As I accelerate to around 3000 rpm, I see that the rev counter decreases and then shoots back up, giving the impression that the gears are slipping. Additionally, you could notice that the gear change indicator thing momentarily appears. You can get past the strange hesitancy, but it won't inspire much confidence if I want to overtake you. If I'm in third gear and want to get on the highway, but I don't shift up, the car will stall between 2500 and 3000 rpm. It does the same in fourth and fifth gears as well. The automobile forces you to take short shifts, so the rpm don't reach very high anyway, even though it seems fine on normal driving. I understand that I need to contact the seller, but I would appreciate it if someone else could provide more information so that I can get a better diagnosis based on my inadequate description.Please let me know if anyone can assist; I'm happy to provide additional information if necessary.