tr4s

It should not be burdensome to elevate. OEM dampers from eBay cost approximately £60 and may be easily installed using a flat blade screwdriver, provided that another person keeps the lid open. Numerous videos are available on YouTube. It is a normal maintenance procedure for a 13-year-old SL and estate vehicles. No cause for concern.

Historically, the Pre-facelift R230 experienced water intrusion issues due to the design of the boot lid. Consequently, both the designer and the user would have been apprehensive about the object unexpectedly opening and allowing water to enter the boot while the bootlid was damp. Consequently, on your 13-year-old SL, the dampers may be somewhat fatigued and may not elevate the lid as originally designed. They should raise the lid sufficiently and effortlessly complete the task with your hand.

NEGATIVE

It is peculiar that the advertisement displays them inverted. Ensure that the protruding 'top hat' component, which fits into the sill slot of the vehicle, is sufficiently elongated; I previously purchased one online that was inadequate in length. I just purchased items with a substantial base (the 'hockey puck' component) designed for forked axle supports, which are quite durable.

Upon reading the original post, I contemplated just that—always get an email confirmation for any discussion or agreement. If I recall correctly, until a few years back, Aviva provided coverage for the panoramic roof of our vehicle, however there was an excess despite my having comprehensive insurance. Always enquire and get written confirmation, since I recall some other majors did not include panoramic roofs or classified them under "glass," which typically incurs an added charge.

That seems to resemble the vanos solenoid, does it not?

Indeed, I suppose, and thank you. 🙂

Thank you; it will undoubtedly be worthwhile. 🙂 Not pursuing excessive power, since it must remain practical for road trips and similar uses. The turbo and injectors are suitable for around 280 horsepower.

This evening, I visited an individual and his workshop, where he can rebuild my engine with whole new internals and do head skimming. Subsequently, consider a hybrid turbo, enhanced injectors, a 4-bar map sensor, a straight-through exhaust, a ported and polished cylinder head, followed by a remap. Considering an upgrade for the clutch and dual mass flywheel.

I want a trade of this kind. However, I would be grateful to have the Audi operational again with a standard engine. Interestingly, Kev has an A6 C5 equipped with a 2.5 TDI AYB 150 horsepower engine, which may be compatible provided all components are transferred from the source vehicle.

Audi RS6 C5 equipped with RS6 C6 V10 engine

B7 A4 Avant with a W12 engine swap. Operating D3 A8 W12 and B7 A4 TDI 6-speed 0A3

I want to create a thread featuring Audi vehicles with engine swaps.

as above or below the tray.

I just had an excellent run, maintaining 4th gear for perhaps 40 minutes to an hour while applying significant throttle. The engine management light extinguished after about 20 minutes, and the anti-slip feature remained inactive for the whole voyage. Secondly, I stopped at a traffic signal, and the anti-slip feature activated once again, but there was no engine management warning. The engine produces a whirling noise when the anti-slip system engages.

Could you kindly provide the pricing for that?

I reside in Peterlee, County Durham.

To be honest, I am not very knowledgeable about automobiles. The garage recommended that I undergo a deletion and remap, but I am entirely unfamiliar with automotive matters. This vehicle is severely burdening me; within the week of purchase, I incurred an expense of £1000 for four new injectors, and since then, it has been a continuous series of issues. I paid £3,200 for it and have since spend almost £3,000 in repairs and upkeep. I cannot bear the financial burden of purchasing another vehicle; times are challenging, however this is essential for my commute to work. Today, when I accelerated from a traffic signal, the anti-slip feature activated, resulting in a complete loss of power accompanied by the emission of black smoke from the rear. Stopped the vehicle, restarted it, and regained full power without any warning lights. I do not understand; when I cease acceleration, the anti-slip engages, however if I halt while maintaining high rpm, it seems to remain disengaged.

Hello everyone, I am seeking assistance from anybody who can provide aid. I own a 2011 Nissan Juke. Approximately one year ago, the engine management light illuminated. We consulted our local mechanic, which recommended a DPF deletion and remapping to rectify the problem; otherwise, it would persist. We completed the repairs and retrieved the vehicle from the garage, having additionally incurred the expense of an extra sensor throughout the process. The vehicle was returned with the engine management light still on. The garage said that they were unable to identify the problem. The engine management light persists; it extinguishes when the vehicle is driven aggressively but reactivates shortly thereafter. The vehicle is equipped with an anti-slip light on the dashboard that results in a loss of power when activated; this occurs only while the car is stationary in traffic or idling, not when in motion. Many garages remain unresolved. My brother-in-law and I discovered a video depicting a pipe at the rear of the engine with an orange end connected to a sensor. The videos suggest this might be the culprit. We removed and cleaned it, but the issue persists. I need assistance; now, I own just a malfunctioning vehicle and substantial financial expenditure. I am enquiring whether others have had the same situation.

Not included in the assessment...at this moment! It seems that it may occur shortly. Removing or modifying factory-fitted emissions equipment from a vehicle is prohibited, resulting in a £1000 fine and potentially voiding insurance coverage. However, it is worth noting that there are no known instances of anyone being convicted or having insurance claims denied for this offence. Having perused several accounts of the ADblue debacle on this platform, I fully get the allure of eliminating it from the system. The whole system is inadequate for its intended function. On the Jaguar XF forum, I have not seen any alarming accounts about ADblue, indicating that it is feasible; nevertheless, it seems that Mercedes has not achieved this success.

The alarm is activated when the vehicle is locked and the mirrors are folded in. (unless you deliberately deactivated it in the settings)

Consult the realoem website to see which system you have. There are two distinct systems to choose from.

You have already exceeded the cost of the repair via the expenses incurred for service at the authorised dealership.