Lovelyas

Hello, the instrument. Thank you

Greetings, everyone. I hope everything is satisfactory. I am experiencing a headache accompanied with haemorrhaging. While driving, the rear passenger brake line (UK) ruptured. Secure the vehicle and spouse in a secure location inside an Aldi parking lot. The reservoir was almost devoid of water, exhibiting just a little trickle. I installed fresh DOT 4 fluid and a friend arrived with a vehicle trailer. Transported the vehicle to my sister's residence, rather than to my parents' house where we typically service all our automobiles. Repaired the pipe by cutting and joining it with copper. & Attempted to bleed. Reservoir full. The rear driver's bleed nipple is open, but no fluid has emerged after some time. Two men inflicted injury on me while I was on the pedal, and my father did so on my breast. Open foot on; close foot off. I attempted it perhaps five times without success. Inspected the back passenger area... same... no findings. We then operated the engine and repeated the procedure with two individuals... No results. My father has never failed to bleed brake fluid. He successfully replaced the ABS pump on a 2008 Opel Astra and bled the system effectively. He said that my system is filled with air. We attempted for around 2 to 3 hours; throughout that period, we performed the two-man procedure and sequentially opened each rear nipple for about 10 minutes. Nothing. Can you provide assistance with any ideas? I just purchased a tool but am awaiting its arrival. Similar to a pump bleeder. I will show you a photograph. Any suggestions, please. Thank you.

If a basic scanner indicates a coolant temperature of -40°C, it signifies an open circuit, suggesting that either the sensor or the circuit is defective, or an external factor is adversely affecting the signal. A rapid assessment involves examining the temperatures in a cold state to see whether the reported measurement is believable (i.e., ambient). whether such is the case, disconnect the sensor and check whether it indicates -40°C. It will provide an indicator that the DME is receiving credible data.

It is plausible that your drivetrain faults stemmed from the EGR problem rather than the gearbox. Your BMW dealer likely did not investigate the issue thoroughly, but rather formed an assumption based on the error messages they retrieved. While there is a possibility they are accurate, I assume that the most of us would estimate it to be below 50%. It is commendable that they successfully executed your recall; we only get biannual correspondence informing us that they do not anticipate the vehicle igniting. Clearly, I failed to push the Reply button after all.

Do you reside in proximity to a reputable independent BMW specialist? Considering the persistent EGR valve problems associated with that engine—Mrs. XWV own the same vehicle—I would certainly prioritise eliminating that issue before allocating funds to other repairs, since I presume the recall has not been addressed either. She has already replaced the EGR valve twice under warranty, and BMW has now extended the guarantee to around 15 years. On both occasions, the problem was preceded by drivetrain malfunction alerts.

Two weeks after Stonic ownership, there is a nearby supermarket where the vehicle detects a 10mph sign and emits three beeps if the speed limit is exceeded, subsequently allowing further acceleration without further alerts.

There is a recently established regional forum here, albeit its specific territory is still unclear and lacks clarity. In my own opinion, I believe that it would be beneficial to establish a dedicated regional forum just for the Southern California (SoCal) area. If you are interested, please let me know if you would want to engage in a Palomar rum activity while I am in Temecula.

My one further recommendation would be to use more force when pushing, since it is the course of action I would myself choose.

Is there any obstruction preventing the badge from being positioned correctly? Have you conducted a comparison of the undersides of both the new and old badges? Did the previous emblem remain in the same position and move back and forth?

In my case, the "pegs" have two different diameters. I presume yours is also the same, therefore please consider this when purchasing the plugs.

Are there supposed to be outlets at that location? When I removed my insignia, there was no recollection. If your old symbol fits tightly, then your new emblem is incorrect if it is loose.

I plan to replace the M54B25 intake and make some adjustments to the DME settings/map in order to get an additional 20 horsepower. I plan to install the M54B25 intake and perhaps modify the DME settings to get an additional 20 horsepower.

I had the same problem and shared my experience on this platform a few weeks ago. It is bothersome, since I want things to remain in their proper state without the need for refreshing. I am using the Android application.

Transferred from the section on instructional manuals. This is not a comprehensive, detailed guide as indicated by the stickies.

If you have not yet done so, I recommend attempting many instances of abrupt deceleration from a considerable velocity. To activate the ABS, accelerate the automobile to a speed of around 70 miles per hour or more, and then use the brakes with maximum force. However, ensure that you do not completely stop the car, but rather reduce its speed to approximately 10 miles per hour. Iterate this procedure 3-4 times and thereafter drive at a consistent pace to facilitate the cooling of the brakes prior to coming to a halt or parking the vehicle.

I own both Bimmercode and Bimmerlink applications, in addition to many OBD scanners.

Will display the information. The software requires a single purchase of £35, which I believe is a worthwhile investment.

This is perhaps the reason why it is a lengthy press initially.

Furthermore, it is important to note that not all vehicles manufactured in 2010 lacked reinforcements. Specifically, cars produced in April or May of that year were known to have these reinforcements. As an example, I personally own a 2010 R8 with factory reinforcements, which was produced in May. I inspected the plastics and other components to confirm their condition at the time of purchase.

I surmise that it directs towards the AC radiator positioned in front of the primary coolant radiator. Is it visible from the front? An alternative approach is to physically examine the pipes or hoses for any signs of activity, such as a noticeable shift in temperature when the air conditioning is turned off or on. However, it is important to note that the temperature variations must be significant enough to be easily seen.

If the substance enters the radiator, it is most likely an oil cooler line for either the engine or gearbox. Most likely an air conditioning system. To ascertain with certainty, one must trace the pipes retroactively and determine their respective terminations.

Have you not blown a fuse?

Very same history as my E 320.

It is not.

The metal one has a more appealing appearance but it interferes with the transmission. https://www.ebay.com/itm/175873886630?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767356&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595923Xb713f00e64611880ecc414ba4be270d1