Lovelyas

Affirmative, I own it. Functions effectively. It consists of three distinct components, which I choose since they are more manageable for removal

Connect a scanner and verify for codes.

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Are there any error codes?

Which version?

Yesterday, I received the terms and conditions update when billing. One of the intriguing details was this, which I found rather fascinating.

I see that your car is an older diesel model; I am uncertain if diesel vehicles from that era included the gauge on display without iDrive. Regardless, I would not be very worried, since it is equipped with a dipstick that accurately indicates the fluid level.

Lakeside has repurposed retail space into service and MOT bays.

I concur with your assertions and initially harboured scepticism; nevertheless, everything corroborated. The service history is documented at a BMW dealership, and the mileage from the service records and MOTs aligns accurately. I also had the vehicle subjected to a professional inspection, including diagnostic assessments, all of which yielded satisfactory results. Thank you once again for the counsel.

Greetings everyone, I need counsel. I just acquired a one-owner 2013 X6 30d Xdrive with only 13,000 miles, which has a complete service history, maintained every 1,000 miles. All documentation is in order. My concern is that when I accelerate, there is a lack of power for the first few thousand revolutions, after which all the power seems to surge simultaneously. Is this usual, since this is the first automatic automobile I have owned? I seem to be using more pressure on the accelerator to maintain turbo engagement, resulting in increased diesel consumption. may an ECU remap resolve this problem, and if so, which establishments in Northern Ireland may I approach? Thank you in advance.

By use the bleed pump gadget I purchased above #3, I am essentially engaging in a futile effort. Do you believe the instrument will exert sufficient pressure on the system to activate the abs? Thank you, Bleakerje. As I said, my father performed one on an Opel Astra, which included an ABS replacement and a complete system re-bleed. I assume they are not all identical.

What is the function of the diagnostic? Thank you

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YaoFaFa Brake Bleeding 3L Brake Bleeder Kit, Manual Brake Fluid Pressure Bleeder with 1L Brake Fluid Extractor and 2 Cylinder Adapters, Compatible with Most European Models and ABS Systems

Hello, the instrument. Thank you

Greetings, everyone. I hope everything is satisfactory. I am experiencing a headache accompanied with haemorrhaging. While driving, the rear passenger brake line (UK) ruptured. Secure the vehicle and spouse in a secure location inside an Aldi parking lot. The reservoir was almost devoid of water, exhibiting just a little trickle. I installed fresh DOT 4 fluid and a friend arrived with a vehicle trailer. Transported the vehicle to my sister's residence, rather than to my parents' house where we typically service all our automobiles. Repaired the pipe by cutting and joining it with copper. & Attempted to bleed. Reservoir full. The rear driver's bleed nipple is open, but no fluid has emerged after some time. Two men inflicted injury on me while I was on the pedal, and my father did so on my breast. Open foot on; close foot off. I attempted it perhaps five times without success. Inspected the back passenger area... same... no findings. We then operated the engine and repeated the procedure with two individuals... No results. My father has never failed to bleed brake fluid. He successfully replaced the ABS pump on a 2008 Opel Astra and bled the system effectively. He said that my system is filled with air. We attempted for around 2 to 3 hours; throughout that period, we performed the two-man procedure and sequentially opened each rear nipple for about 10 minutes. Nothing. Can you provide assistance with any ideas? I just purchased a tool but am awaiting its arrival. Similar to a pump bleeder. I will show you a photograph. Any suggestions, please. Thank you.

If a basic scanner indicates a coolant temperature of -40°C, it signifies an open circuit, suggesting that either the sensor or the circuit is defective, or an external factor is adversely affecting the signal. A rapid assessment involves examining the temperatures in a cold state to see whether the reported measurement is believable (i.e., ambient). whether such is the case, disconnect the sensor and check whether it indicates -40°C. It will provide an indicator that the DME is receiving credible data.

It is plausible that your drivetrain faults stemmed from the EGR problem rather than the gearbox. Your BMW dealer likely did not investigate the issue thoroughly, but rather formed an assumption based on the error messages they retrieved. While there is a possibility they are accurate, I assume that the most of us would estimate it to be below 50%. It is commendable that they successfully executed your recall; we only get biannual correspondence informing us that they do not anticipate the vehicle igniting. Clearly, I failed to push the Reply button after all.

Do you reside in proximity to a reputable independent BMW specialist? Considering the persistent EGR valve problems associated with that engine—Mrs. XWV own the same vehicle—I would certainly prioritise eliminating that issue before allocating funds to other repairs, since I presume the recall has not been addressed either. She has already replaced the EGR valve twice under warranty, and BMW has now extended the guarantee to around 15 years. On both occasions, the problem was preceded by drivetrain malfunction alerts.

Two weeks after Stonic ownership, there is a nearby supermarket where the vehicle detects a 10mph sign and emits three beeps if the speed limit is exceeded, subsequently allowing further acceleration without further alerts.

There is a recently established regional forum here, albeit its specific territory is still unclear and lacks clarity. In my own opinion, I believe that it would be beneficial to establish a dedicated regional forum just for the Southern California (SoCal) area. If you are interested, please let me know if you would want to engage in a Palomar rum activity while I am in Temecula.

My one further recommendation would be to use more force when pushing, since it is the course of action I would myself choose.

Is there any obstruction preventing the badge from being positioned correctly? Have you conducted a comparison of the undersides of both the new and old badges? Did the previous emblem remain in the same position and move back and forth?

In my case, the "pegs" have two different diameters. I presume yours is also the same, therefore please consider this when purchasing the plugs.