Finestey

If he is unwilling to complete the task, look for another mechanic.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-968407-3219-9a046660ab-b&k=Mazda

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-968407-3219-b05a2b0644-k&k=2024+Mazda+CX-90+PHEV+accessories

Our '24 PHEV just had it serviced. Just the back brakes were changed. Their squeals have subsided. What was interesting was that we called a couple weeks after receiving the letter to get in queue for the service. The dealer in Southern Louisiana informed us that they are limited to ordering only one set of replacement pads per week. A few weeks had passed. Approximately four weeks later, I contacted the service center to enquire about our status. The representative informed me that, upon reviewing our records, he noticed a red flag from Mazda indicating that our factory warranty had expired in May. Despite having a full coverage extended warranty—we had purchased a dealer demo car—we were informed that this was the only way they would handle our situation. Before my wife finds out they won't cover it, I told him he needed to do whatever it took to get it done, like calling higher-ups or making some phone calls. Just a few minutes later, he returns the call and says they will charge Mazda for it. If Mazda doesn't pay, the dealer will honour it. A day later, he moved us up the waiting list and finally got us in. Much appreciation to Desmond in Lafayette. He exemplifies the ideal customer service representative a dealer could ask for.

Well I'll eat my words then Rob haha ... glad it's turned up mate

Bank transfer upfront for a car you've never seen? I know some companies sell online now and deliver to your door but I'd want to know exactly who I'm paying and what happens if the car doesn't turn up

2009 Corolla that makes a lot of noise and has a rocky start. It starts up easily and runs smoothly after that. My guess is that this is something. I've thought about trying different plugs, but I'm still not sure if the fuel pump is the culprit.

I used to work on the finance/admin side of a similar fictional transport business before moving to Manchester. The basic idea behind a segregated business account is that vehicle related funds are kept separate from ordinary operating money. But don't assume the word "segregated" automatically means you're protected That's the bit I'd want clarified before sending anything.

good!

No, on idle it's completely silent from both sides; it only starts to cluck somewhat under load at low RPMs, about 1000-1500. Many people have suggested high pressure pumps, but I haven't been able to prove them wrong.

Good day. This little clunk or bang came out of nowhere and was really bothersome. I've checked the oil filter for flakes, replaced the spark plugs with the correct torque, used new MB 5w40 oil, and used the borescope to ensure that the sleeves are OK. However, still nothing. It seems like the noise went away the day after the oil change, but it came back the next day. Not audible at idle, but detectable between 1000 and 1500 rpm when the engine warms up, and then practically goes away when the engine becomes hot. I ran the Xentry diagnostic last night and everything came back clear: no misfire, no errors, no stored codes, etc. The engine pulls nicely, but I'm afraid to push it to its limits because of this. I tried using a statoscope on my own, but the noises weren't suspicious—just like the ones I mentioned before—and the tapping wasn't happening while the heads were at rest. Where can I find out what I need to know before I waste money on guesswork and garage advice? I came across a discussion on a similar subject, but the tone changed abruptly, and it is unclear if anyone has resolved the issue. Best regards

whom did the remapping?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/precisionmotoring?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767388&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595941X6e8ed8b0a705b0d043af27e6a10bf0a0&subId2=15

You need a professional (not a do-it-yourselfer) to reset the footwell module. I hired precise garage, who sell on eBay; all you have to do is send them the FRM (forget the name).

It may be either n52 or n53; therefore, it is advisable to proceed as indicated and verify using the VIN number.