RosaStyle

Remove the belt, and you should identify the faulty pulley by manually rotating it. Experiencing a grinding sensation or a rumbling sound. The air conditioning system requires more rotation, hence increasing the load on the belt.

You have no more comments; you disapprove of its transition and see it as substandard. Why remain discontent? Sell it and purchase the VW.

Subsequently, sell it and purchase a VW Passat.

Utilising a £25 OBD2 scanner, you may independently erase the error and consequently the Engine Management Light (EML). My device activates with the Nix sensor failure code around one year. I will cancel many times during the following week, after which it will be deactivated. I possess little to no confidence in the sensors really malfunctioning. I believe it is more likely a case of debris on the sensor that is finally dislodged, or the excessively stringent limitations programmed in the software being momentarily surpassed. The assertion that "the computer indicates a negative response" does not always imply that a replacement is required. It serves as a modest source of income for some individuals.

I had the opportunity to operate the scanner, and with the engine cold, the autocom indicates an engine coolant temperature of 12°C. The air temperature today is around 14 degrees. I removed the sensor, which displayed -40°C, and the fan commenced operation. The issue vanished when reconnecting the sensor. No codes were registered prior to this, although a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low was recorded.

My autocom now connects only in EODB mode (another issue to resolve), but I believe I may see the coolant temperature there. I will verify it tomorrow once retrieving the laptop.

Thank you much, Cincoon.

To maybe address my inquiry, BMW Repair Guide states: A malfunctioning MINI R56 coolant temperature sensor may lead to many problems, such as a continuously running electric cooling fan, engine overheating, and/or a check engine light accompanied with sensor failure codes.

If the circuit or sensor is defective, or if there is a problem with the ECU, the fan will not deactivate. I apologise for the multitude of enquiries. I am attempting to comprehend the situation with a restricted knowledge. Every day is an opportunity for learning.

Does this indicate that the coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning, despite the vehicle seeming to register temperatures, or is there a relay that deactivates the fan at lower temperatures? The temperature sensor was replaced in 2021. Do the new models activate the fan at a lower temperature?

Operating the vehicle today to assess the temperature sensor. I saw it use the hidden menu diagnostics on the clock. Left the vehicle idle for around one hour and saw the temperature gradually rising. The temperature reached 103 degrees, and the fan activated. Temperature decreased to 71, and the fan remains operational. The vehicle was left idling, and the temperature began to rise again despite the fan operating. Upon reaching 90, I activated the heater at maximum capacity, and the temperature began to decrease. Returned to 68 degrees, and the fan remains operational. No coolant drops are visible, however the level was slightly reduced prior to my testing. The exhaust is unobstructed, with a little accumulation of water from idling. When I accelerate vigorously, I see a little water spray accompanied by white or grey smoke, which subsequently dissipates. Is this a defective temperature sensor or another component that regulates the fan's operation?

One is not obligated to honour a quotation till the commencement of the task, hence it is improbable that this is the explanation. Consider obtaining a second opinion.

I would consider the rear seat to be satisfactory for anyone up to around 6 feet in height, particularly if the vehicle is equipped with a sunroof. This is based on individuals that have been in my thoughts. I am 6 feet 4 inches tall, and my head is touching the ceiling in that area. If my vehicle were to be wrecked tomorrow, I would purchase a replacement. However, I am uncertain about purchasing another car after this one, since I want to keep it for around 7 years and cannot predict the advancements in automobile technology that may occur during that time.

It is possible that one of the pulleys has become stuck or immobile.

Over the course of the previous three days, I embarked on a journey from Leeds to Cobham in Surrey and then returned to Leeds. I made this journey in an E280cdi Sports Estate vehicle. Accompany oneself and a companion carrying many bags of personal possessions. I achieved an average fuel efficiency of little more than 41 miles per gallon while maintaining a consistent speed limit during my whole journey. Specifically, I travelled on the M1 and M25 highways in a southbound direction, and on the M25, M40, A43, and M1 highways in a northbound direction. The traffic was sparse. The era of enjoyable driving experiences is far from being ended!

Over the course of almost 9 years, I have driven a 2009 E280 cdi Sports Estate for a total distance of around 85,000 kilometres. It has been my reliable and cherished tool for work. A remarkable engine and a car loaded with advanced features. Abundant power and luxurious comfort. I have recently had to replace the tailboard struts, which was rather inconvenient but not too challenging after I became familiar with the task. I purchased it from Mercland with a mileage of 111,000. The current mileage of the vehicle is 195,000 km and it continues to operate well, just as it did when I first purchased it. Have a pleasurable experience!

Negative, the device has not undergone maintenance. I will examine the matter and see what actions may be taken. Thank you.

The problem is in the presence of several factors, and it is crucial to avoid using the incorrect fluid that might potentially damage your transfer case. Thank you.

I wholeheartedly agree with your viewpoint. It is not advisable to take such a costly risk.

An acquaintance of mine had the same problem. The application of new liquid resolved this problem. I want to begin the process by doing a fluid change and thereafter assess the outcome before proceeding further. Thank you

That is my current contemplation. This fluid from Comma has the potential to be effective, but there is also a possibility that it might cause damage to my transfer unit. I was hoping to find someone who has experience using this fluid on their transfer case and can provide a testimonial for its effectiveness.

Understood.

Evidently, this product seemed to be the correct one, but its low price made me sceptical, which is why I enquired. Thank you.

NOTE - I have inspected the transfer case actuator motor and it seems to be in proper working condition. The gears are undamaged and in excellent shape. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you

Greetings, individuals. Could someone kindly provide me with some advise, please? I own a 2004 E53 X5 with an automatic gearbox. The problem is in experiencing intermittent jolts when decelerating while driving. I have been informed that it may be necessary to replace the transfer case fluid due to the car's high mileage of 180,000. Displayed below is a photograph of the recommendation provided to me from my nearby automotive parts retailer. Can somebody provide a recommendation about the use of this fluid on my transfer case, or have I been deceived?