RosaStyle

Replying to posts does not need 30 posts, it is only necessary for accessing private chat and the classifieds area. 👍

Apologies for my lack of knowledge, but could you please confirm if this is a CT4 or CT5? Regardless of the nature of the matter, congratulations!

The most prevalent problem with these vehicles is the fluid level, since they are very sensitive to it.

I had two sets of automobile keys for two different vehicles. 1 set of Helko and 1 set of iSpeed. I did not use any clips or double sided tape at any point. The effort required to immobilise them prevents their movement. I strive to be distinctive.

I have had no problems with the operation of the windows on my vx-line for around 5 years. Whenever I tried to raise the window on my old vehicle, if the deflector had shifted even slightly, it would activate the anti-trap sensor and cause the window to lower again. Subsequent recalibration of the deflector would suffice for a duration of many months.

I have purchased a pair of pre-owned locks from eBay and will provide an update to this page when I have installed the new lock. If the newly manufactured chinesium component was responsible for the problem, it posed a significant risk and serves as a cautionary tale about purchasing such components. Always choose either used components or the original parts from the manufacturer. Initially, I believed that purchasing a brand-new Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) lock was superior than acquiring a used one. However, it seems that this assumption was a novice error!

Apologies for my lack of knowledge on the ability to reference other websites. I acquired the replacement lock from an online marketplace called eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256093769514?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X667812d1f5f13c559b0bf180b616426a

The tailboard of my F07 vehicle ceased to function, rendering it unable to open or shut. However, the voltage at the lock was still there. I purchased a new Chinese OEM replacement component for the tailboard boot lid lock latch mechanism from a reputable website for £70. The outcome was successful and everything has been going well for the previous several days. The tailboard functioned well, smoothly opening and closing. After visiting the stores, while returning home, the dashboard indicator said "Close Boot". Upon my arrival at home, I saw smoke emanating from the trunk, with the lock being dangerously close to catching fire and emitting intense heat. I disengaged the battery and extracted the lock. I have purchased a used lock for my car as a replacement. Is this lock just a defective Chinese original equipment manufacturer (OEM) product, or should I be investigating other potential causes?

There is no decrease in power, and you will not perceive any regeneration.

You may get more assistance, since some individuals may choose to disregard this request.

It is possible to charge the battery in its current location as the Battery Management System (BMS) can handle it. However, it is not recommended to do a recovery charge using the CTEK charger while the battery is still attached, since the voltage may exceed the recommended level. Although I suspect there may be an issue with the DC-DC converter, I suggest attempting to resolve the problem by testing with a different battery before seeking assistance from a dealership. What do you stand to forfeit? Additionally, it should be feasible for you to locate a JLR independent expert in your vicinity who will proficiently manage the MHEV models. It will remain less expensive than the Stealers, until you reach out to JLR and persuade them to acknowledge their failure to address the problem throughout the warranty period.

There is certainly some power loss occurring, maybe due to a malfunctioning battery. It seems that you are experiencing the typical symptoms seen in CANbus cars when the battery fails. However, having two battery failures within a year is rather unusual. There seems to be something suspicious happening... :uncertain: A voltage of 12.43V is at the threshold for an AGM battery. Do you have the Recovery Mode activated on your CTEK charger? I own the MXS 5.0, which is capable of desulfating a battery. It is possible that your battery may need this process. Initially, I suggest attempting to use an other battery. Are you able to get one? In order to borrow for testing purposes, it is necessary to determine whether it resolves all the problems. Although you may know what has to be replaced, it is still important to uncover the underlying reasons. If there is no effect, you may disregard the battery and focus on the car itself. As you said, it could not be entering a state of sleep correctly. If you are unable to borrow one, purchasing one may still be a cost-effective option, since it will cost less than the time it takes for a diagnostic session, which often lasts less than an hour. It is possible to return the item the next day and get a complete refund, since it was ultimately deemed unnecessary. Given that you need a replacement for your AGM battery within a span of 3 years, I have reason to believe that the Security update is unrelated to this issue. Have you provided both sets of keys to them? The recent upgrade for MY20> vehicles included reprogramming the Body Control Module (BCM) to prevent unauthorised individuals from rewriting the BCM over the OBD2 connector, hence bypassing the need for keys to start the car. Subsequently, they initiate the vehicle by pressing the start button and proceed to drive away in your cherished possession. Currently, it seems to be functioning since the thieves have not yet been able to circumvent it. I have also received this update and have not yet seen any abnormalities. I strongly believe that I should pursue JLR to rectify the defect that was overlooked throughout the warranty period. As I said before, I suggest contacting JLR customer services instead of your dealership. The guarantee on the item (battery) is not the primary concern. The main issue is in the quality of the service performed, namely the diagnosis. The question is why did an AGM fail prematurely? They have been recognised for their assistance in unusual situations and have even exceeded expectations.

The vehicle is classified as a "Mild Hybrid," however it is essential to have someone who is knowledgeable about and open to new technologies and has the complete diagnostic toolkit, ideally the pathfinder system. If a single failure occurs on a CANbus vehicle, it may result in a multitude of alarms and warnings, like a Christmas Tree. However, this does not necessarily indicate a genuine fault with any of those systems. The root cause may lie elsewhere, such as a problem with the power on the 12V bus. Is the battery being charged as an AGM? I am perplexed as to why you need a replacement earlier, which raises worries that there may have been some underlying issue that caused harm to the 12V batteries. It is possible that the DC-DC converter is also responsible for the issue. I am curious whether it has been malfunctioning for an extended period of time. An AGM 12V battery should provide a minimum of 5 years of service, and maybe longer if properly maintained. (Furthermore, could you kindly clarify the meaning of SOH in your first message?) If the battery was replaced by JLR within the last year, you may be eligible to have the dealership reexamine it, since they may have overlooked the underlying issue. Attempt to contact JLR's primary customer care line and observe the resulting response. Haynes Workshop Manuals are not readily available for current automobiles since manufacturers like to retain exclusive access to repair and service information. This practice complicates matters for individuals who wish to do these tasks independently. I have personally serviced Spock and have prepared a zip file including the Manuals and other relevant materials, including Part Numbers for all the service items. This file is available for you or anybody else who may find it helpful.

The 48V battery pack and the DC-DC converter are located under the passenger seat. These vehicles do not have a starting motor since they are equipped with a Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle (MHEV) system. Instead, they utilise a Belt-Integrated starting Generator (BISG) that operates on a 48V system. The BISG may give additional power to help the vehicle accelerate. The illuminated Christmas tree you are receiving often suggests a malfunctioning 12V battery, either discharged or defective. However, in your situation, it seems that the DC-DC converter is not functioning correctly. This converter serves as the equivalent of an alternator and supplies power to the 12V circuits. Do you own a copy of the Workshop Manual? It is very valuable and offers extensive information on the different components and their functionalities. Is it possible to attempt the removal of a fuse in order to cut off power supply to the converter and then reset it?

In my opinion, I do not believe that the rocker cover gasket is the cause of the issue. I have encountered a problem with my M135i where there is a distinct smell of burning oil, rather than petrol. Considering the relatively recent manufacturing year of your automobile, 2022, the potential cause of the issue you mentioned might be a leakage originating from the manifold or the junction point where the catalytic converter connects to the downpipe.

ok,thanks! 😇

I will attempt to get BMW components, but do you have any insights as to why the Carly OBD is indicating a potential malfunction with the Slip ring (Steering Angle sensor)?

Bosche

Indeed, I performed the task of cleaning them while I was replacing the sensors.

Greetings, those who are interested in E36 vehicles. I am now experiencing a problem with the traction control and ABS lights on my right-hand drive 1998 318is coupe (UK specification) after replacing the sensors. I had hoped that this would resolve the issue. Despite my unsuccessful attempts, I connected my carly obd reader and it displayed the codes shown in the attached photographs. Is there someone available to assist me? Thank you

Wouldn't that be EPC?

I am ready to end the operation of a 2021 SVR that has travelled a distance of 27 km. I often get warnings concerning the reliability of RR and its unexpected breakdowns. I am keen to get your perspectives and firsthand accounts. I really like the SVR in terms of both its sound and look when compared to the GLE63. Nevertheless, I am concerned about the need of frequent visits to the service facility. Gratitude is extended to all those present.

Perhaps the issue is with the crank damper pulley. Remove the auxiliary belt and temporarily operate the system to see whether the noise subsides.

I feel the same way. There is a bridge nearby that has expansion joints. These joints used to cause my Landrovers to bounce. I have not driven my BMW over this bridge and do not plan to do so. Rural roads are mostly used by agricultural vehicles such as tractors.

In my experience, wheel bearings often exhibit lateral and vertical movement. If your vehicle is simply moving laterally, I would recommend inspecting the ball joint and tie rods as a first step... Indeed, it is possible that it might serve as an early indication of a bearing issue. However, I suggest verifying the information provided above before drawing any conclusions. 😉