
MamaKiddo
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Everything posted by MamaKiddo
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The website the-dpf-doctor.com offers a wide range of agents that are skilled in the professional cleaning of the diesel particulate filter (DPF). These agents use a direct injection method to clean the DPF, without adding any substances to the fuel, oil, or intake system. In addition, they conduct a comprehensive diagnostic assessment to identify any potential factors contributing to the accumulation. If I were to purchase another diesel vehicle, I would willingly spend £100 to ensure that the diesel particulate filter (DPF) is thoroughly cleaned. In addition, they will have the capability to suggest a gasoline additive, if one is available. Another concern during short excursions is the potential for oil pollution resulting from inadequate regenerations.
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https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/vehicle-type/car-battery-chargers/battery-maintainer
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In order to maintain a battery's optimal condition while the automobile is not in use, it is necessary to connect it to a trickle charger. When observing a tour of Youtubers' automobile collections, you will see that a Ctek charger is connected to each vehicle.
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Consider the standard options: sell the automobile and get a vehicle with a larger engine, or alternatively, install a turbocharger on the existing car.
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Reestablish the connection of the diagnostic system and examine the recorded error codes. Additionally, monitor the current operating temperature.
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Purchased ISTA software on a laptop along with many wires. The delivery is scheduled on Wednesday. Next, I possess: The version of ISTA-D is 4.26. The software version is ISTA-P V. 3.67. The version of BMW-ESYS is 3.25. The following tools are available for the INPA-BMW 2012 coding: Coding-Tool, NCS-Dummy, NCS-Expert, Tool-32, and Win-KFP. Does anybody have information on reliable sources for high-quality tutorials or instructional materials? Numerous software programmes, as well as the laptop and wires.
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Is it feasible to purchase ISTA from a retail outlet for self-installation, or is it necessary to visit a BMW dealership? I will attempt to restore the automobile to its upright position. Begin by testing if the automobile will elevate the rear end in this manner. I refrained from doing it due to concerns about potential detrimental effects on the air suspension system.
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Following the replacement of the rear shock absorbers, the functionality of the air suspension on both sides has ceased, resulting in a drooping rear end of the automobile. The BMW I own is a 520d LCI 2014 F11 model. This is the account of my actions: Positioned the jack under the rear jack points Detached the wheels The air suspension was probably set to its maximum height, completely inflated. I was unable to elevate the lower control arm using a jack, therefore I proceeded to do the following steps: Detached both air hoses, the red one and the blue one. I perceived the sound of the air being released. Detached a connection Successfully installed the shock absorbers. Reinstalled the wheels Reestablished the connection of both air hoses Reestablished the connection of the connector I had not yet removed the jack since I believed that I could assist in the inflation of the air springs via the air suspension system. This was ineffective. Lowered the automobile without using the jack. There is still no outcome or conclusion. Attempted to disconnect and reconnect the battery, but there was no change or improvement. Compressor noise: Upon starting the automobile, I perceive the sound of the compressor, which lasts for around 15 seconds and manifests as a ticking sound. Subsequently, it ceases to tick. After that, it resumes ticking for a duration of 5 seconds before becoming quiet once again. Remains quiet. Diagnostics: The BMW displays no faults. Verified with Bimmercode/Bimmerlink; no errors detected. Relay: Verified the functionality of the 40 amp relay identified as number 182. The item is in excellent condition. Has anybody experienced this previously? Is it permissible for me to use a vehicle in its current condition?
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Additionally, I would like to highlight that the egr valve has already been changed. The previous attempt was unsuccessful. What is the precise definition of the supply pipe? The carbon cleaning process included thoroughly cleaning the intake manifold, valves, and the EGR valve itself. Where else should I look? You may always demonstrate it to me using realoem. Thank you very much!
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Greetings, I have been seeing these codes for an extended duration. For the time being, let's exclude the glow plug and aerial bumper from our discussion. The boost pressure sensor and air mass measurement were recently obtained. Two sensors, namely the exhaust pressure sensor, have already been replaced. Additionally, the intake manifold and EGR system have had a thorough cleaning to remove any clogging, but the extent of the obstruction was not severe. I am experiencing confusion over where to direct my attention. Is there a possibility of a leak? During testing at ISTA, the engine is unable to exceed 2800 rpm, resulting in a failure of the air test. Perhaps we could do a smoke test to detect any potential leaks. The automobile sometimes stalls at a red light. Insufficiently reactive at low revolutions per minute (rpm). Any assistance is welcomed.
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I would classify him as a troll, which is why I responded with some ha ha ha ha
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Please fill it with donkey semen, thank you.
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Please display the engine in its entirety with the cover off. It is likely that an EGR deletion has been performed.
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It is important to have your catalytic converters (CATS) inspected. If the CATS are obstructed and releasing harmful substances into the cabin, it is crucial to avoid inhaling them. Additionally, if the CATS are leaking into the cabin, it is especially unsafe to have small children in the vehicle. Arrange for a nearby automotive workshop to do an emissions test on the vehicle. This will provide insight into if there is a catalytic converter issue. Obstructed catalytic converters emit an odour like sulphur or Mercaptan, which is a substance added to natural gas. The first indication of this scent would typically be detected via the ventilation system.
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I tried it, but, it seemed to be ineffective.
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I would recommend allowing them a few days to acclimatise and see whether the issue disappears spontaneously.
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If you possess dexterity with a scalpel and soldering iron, you have the capability to change the battery.
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After removing the plastic scuttle trim from the manifold, it is quite simple to remove a boost pipe, a few wire connectors, a plastic bracket for the engine harness, and then 7 or 8 10mm head bolts. Removing the cooler is a straightforward process, but it will result in the loss of coolant. Therefore, it is advisable to keep sufficient G48 coolant on hand for refilling purposes. Prioritise removing the manifold before the cooler, as this will facilitate the removal of the cooler and allow for simpler reinstallation of the cooler. The most challenging aspect is when the two T45 bolts get stuck in the exhaust manifold.