MamaKiddo

Recently discovered that it is operating at 0% while not in use. During the most of the time when driving, the percentage of progress remains at 0%. However, there are instances where there is a sudden increase to about 70% or 100%, followed by a return to 0%.

The first phase is a complete stop, followed by a second phase of maximum acceleration, and finally a third phase of maintaining a constant speed of 30 miles per hour. The automobile has been in stage 1 for a duration of 3 years.

Additionally, I would like to highlight that the egr valve has already been changed. The previous attempt was unsuccessful. What is the precise definition of the supply pipe? The carbon cleaning process included thoroughly cleaning the intake manifold, valves, and the EGR valve itself. Where else should I look? You may always demonstrate it to me using realoem. Thank you very much!

Greetings, I have been seeing these codes for an extended duration. For the time being, let's exclude the glow plug and aerial bumper from our discussion. The boost pressure sensor and air mass measurement were recently obtained. Two sensors, namely the exhaust pressure sensor, have already been replaced. Additionally, the intake manifold and EGR system have had a thorough cleaning to remove any clogging, but the extent of the obstruction was not severe. I am experiencing confusion over where to direct my attention. Is there a possibility of a leak? During testing at ISTA, the engine is unable to exceed 2800 rpm, resulting in a failure of the air test. Perhaps we could do a smoke test to detect any potential leaks. The automobile sometimes stalls at a red light. Insufficiently reactive at low revolutions per minute (rpm). Any assistance is welcomed.

I would classify him as a troll, which is why I responded with some ha ha ha ha

Please fill it with donkey semen, thank you.

Please display the engine in its entirety with the cover off. It is likely that an EGR deletion has been performed.

It is important to have your catalytic converters (CATS) inspected. If the CATS are obstructed and releasing harmful substances into the cabin, it is crucial to avoid inhaling them. Additionally, if the CATS are leaking into the cabin, it is especially unsafe to have small children in the vehicle. Arrange for a nearby automotive workshop to do an emissions test on the vehicle. This will provide insight into if there is a catalytic converter issue. Obstructed catalytic converters emit an odour like sulphur or Mercaptan, which is a substance added to natural gas. The first indication of this scent would typically be detected via the ventilation system.

I tried it, but, it seemed to be ineffective.

I would recommend allowing them a few days to acclimatise and see whether the issue disappears spontaneously.

If you possess dexterity with a scalpel and soldering iron, you have the capability to change the battery.

After removing the plastic scuttle trim from the manifold, it is quite simple to remove a boost pipe, a few wire connectors, a plastic bracket for the engine harness, and then 7 or 8 10mm head bolts. Removing the cooler is a straightforward process, but it will result in the loss of coolant. Therefore, it is advisable to keep sufficient G48 coolant on hand for refilling purposes. Prioritise removing the manifold before the cooler, as this will facilitate the removal of the cooler and allow for simpler reinstallation of the cooler. The most challenging aspect is when the two T45 bolts get stuck in the exhaust manifold.

Cleaning the intake manifold is recommended, unless there are problems with the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, in which case it may not be necessary to clean. I haven't quantified them specifically to get highly stimulated by cocaine. Rather, I notice the accumulation in the cooler and ingest.

Your EGR is of the electric variety and is later in design.

Have you inspected the ABS rings for any signs of rust?

The Boss's new Discovery 5 has a lengthy press mechanism for opening and closing the tailboard, which cannot be operated while the engine is running. It is somewhat bothersome when I am scattering wild bird food around the outskirts of fields to keep birds away from the main area, and I have to interrupt my progress every 50 yards or so for a distance of almost 5 kilometres.

Thank you for the offer, my friend, but it is about a three-hour journey. However, I do appreciate your kindness. I will inquire with the garage to see if they can inspect it at the MOT appointment.

That would be excellent! Located in Eastbourne. Thank you.

Thank you, friend. Due of my lack of knowledge about autos, I will attempt to locate a someone who has the expertise to do a wastegate examination on my behalf. Is it possible to repair the wastegate without changing the whole turbocharger? If we assume that the issue lies in the wastegate, do you have any estimates on the approximate cost for replacement or repair? I am grateful for your assistance.

Thank you, Markwe. I really value your remarks. Is it okay to continue driving cautiously if the issue is with the wastegate? Since my recent relocation, I commute to the workplace twice a week, covering a distance of 60 miles. As a result, I now heavily depend on my automobile for transportation. I will request the garage to thoroughly inspect it on its MOT appointment. Can an independent mechanic inspect this or does it need the expertise of a BMW dealer? Thank you one again.

Thank you for your input. Based on your judgement, it can be reasonably concluded that the chain is not in the worst possible condition. Is it OK to continue with our regular activities at this time? I have an upcoming MOT at the end of the month, so I plan to get it inspected at that time. If the issue is with the wastegate, is the repair cost high? I really value all of your remarks.

I have just been outside and captured an additional video, which may be seen here. The previously shared video was uploaded some months ago.

I am unfamiliar with the turbo wastegate and its location. I do not hear any banging or rattling noises till I increase the engine's speed and only notice the sound after I let off of the throttle. Would the noise be audible even when the engine is not being revved if it was caused by a problem with the chain? I appreciate your assistance.

Over the last several months, I have been experiencing an unusual rattling sound while the engine is cold. This sound is only audible when I accelerate, whether I am driving or at a standstill. The rattling noise is only there after I remove my foot from the accelerator pedal after accelerating, and not while I am actively accelerating. The noise entirely goes away after around 5 to 10 minutes. Below is a video clip demonstrating the noise. Please note that the video was recorded a few months ago and the noise has since worsened somewhat. The car is a 2018 model with a mileage of 50,000 km. It is equipped with a petrol engine. I would much appreciate any guidance or recommendations.

Acquired some knowledge today, however I would want to ask a few further questions, if I am allowed to do so. Initially, I mentioned that the steering feels somewhat rigid. This 2010 model is equipped with a hydraulic ps pump, whereas mine is electric. However, I believe it should not be excessively rigid. I believe the wheel does re-center itself, but I will verify this during a test drive. Based on my limited research, I speculate that it could be a steering guibo, fluid change, or a problem with the rack or pump. Has anyone had any experience with this? Having driven several slightly older e90s, I have observed that the steering on this particular vehicle is noticeably more rigid than the others. I am confident that there is a need to address this issue, as it is a reasonably priced car with a high mileage but satisfactory overall condition and specifications. Therefore, I am willing to invest a small amount of money to rectify this problem. My only concern with the car thus far is the steering stiffness. I will consult the seller once more to obtain their opinion. However, if anyone has prior experience with this matter, I would greatly appreciate your advice. Furthermore, there is a concern with the autobox oil change. While I am not well-versed in this matter, it is worth noting that BMW claims to provide oil for life. However, there have been instances when individuals have changed the oil on these vehicles periodically, resulting in a cost of 160,000 euros, without any documented evidence of prior oil changes. Is it advisable to refrain from tampering with the box if it is not experiencing any problems, or would it be prudent to invest a few hundred dollars in having it serviced for the sake of piece of mind? Assistance Is it necessary to contemplate the implementation of a new sump that has an integrated filter and 6.5 litres of appropriate oil? If it is the case, I will enlist the services of a professional for this task solely due to its enhanced accessibility on a ramp. During the filling phase, I anticipate the need to cycle through the gears, reset the adaptation on the box, and make other necessary adjustments based on my research. Subsequently, I will allow the gearbox to rest for a brief period while it acclimates to our driving preferences. These are my final concerns regarding the purchase of this car. If someone could provide me with advice, I would greatly appreciate it. However, if I am going to buy this car for the other half, I need to thoroughly consider all aspects. Failure to do so could result in significant pain. I simply want her to be fully informed about all potential actions and considerations, and to carefully evaluate them collectively. With a budget of £5-6k, we are willing to consider acquiring a more affordable vehicle rather than hastily investing £5-6 on a car that does not align with her whole preferences. Thank you once again for the valuable input, everyone. It is really appreciated.