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My experience is similar, although it's with an Android phone made by Motorola. After exploring the Media options, I noticed that Android Auto and Carplay were both marked as greyed out. This being the situation, further action is futile. Is it possible to get around this? Everything else, including the ability to transmit Waze routes from my phone, appears to be functioning normally, and I have also paid for the OTA upgrades. Even if they are in the car, they are worthless without AA because I can't charge them. I am not very tech savvy, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I also experienced this issue after switching to the latest iOS version; however, after rebooting my phone, it was resolved.

My EV3 GT line S is fourteen months old, and my iPhone is the fifteenth generation Pro Max from Apple. Since I've paid for the over-the-air upgrades, I can see that the phone and automobile are both running the most recent software versions. It just stopped working after I used carplay so much. I have tried re-pairing both the phone and the automobile by deleting them from each other. At first, they recognise each other, and I am given the choice to begin the phone's download to the car. After what seems like an eternity, I receive a notice stating that the download failed. I would really appreciate any insight you have on the cause of this issue and any solutions.

While working on engines of all kinds, I've noticed that cars that adhere to the manufacturer-recommended oil changes for too long tend to have value stem seal problems. I've seen engines with over 200k miles on the clock that had oil changes every 6,000 miles and the cylinder heads, cams, and springs still looked brand new. If the seals appear scorched, as in the picture, I'd be surprised if the rest of the head running gear looked the same.

That's to be expected; you'll usually see greater wear on their exhaust side.

Holy cow, I couldn't believe the unexpected symptoms weren't worse. It never crossed my mind to compare the old with the new when I was working nonstop. With 183k, I'm assuming these were either originally installed or replaced earlier?

Here is a picture of a new valve stem seal (right) next to an old one (left) for those who have never seen them before. On the previous one, the hole is substantially larger. It amazes me that the symptoms weren't worse when I saw them. Engine has over 183,000 miles.

Put the oil that the dealership gave you to use. If they later claim you used the wrong oil, you can show them the receipt you kept.

The 0w 20 has been standard on Kia vehicles for a while now, although I doubt it was an option when yours was being manufactured. It was created for hybrid vehicles (0w 20). The dealer probably installs it in most of the cars they repair because of how outstanding the specs are. While 5w-30 would work, it could be more cost-effective to use 0w-20 to avoid altering the oil's characteristics if that's what the dealer is recommending (go to your service invoice for confirmation). The thinner oil is designed to protect smart stream direct injection engines from heat buildup and to lubricate stop-start engines, so you shouldn't worry about it not being healthy for yours. I have used Pretronus to top up my previous two sportages because it was reasonably priced and excellent enough for Lewis Hamilton's vehicle.

This is what my neighbourhood Kia salesman tried to sell me for our 1.25 Picanto, further confusing the matter. 😉

Hey there, how are you doing? I apologise in advance for the obvious overkill on the topic of engine oil, having owned many vehicles and been active on multiple auto forums. However, the engine oil requirements are the most nebulous and perplexing I've ever encountered; I found them when I purchased a 69-plate 1.25 ECO dynamics Picanto for my wife. The 6,000 miles and annual complete service were performed by the same Kia dealer, who informed me that they used ACEA C2 0W-20 engine oil. Additionally, the Kia dealer in my area recommended ACEA C2 0W-20. Page 9 of the handbook suggests ACEA C5, and page 9 of the same section suggests "SAE 0W-20 (API latest or ACEA C5)"; nevertheless, the manual goes on to advise choosing the appropriate engine oil based on the viscosity chart, which ranges from 0W-20 to 20W-50 and everything in between, in the event that neither of these options is available in your country. If that weren't bad enough, Kia.com suggests using TotalEnergies 0W-30 oil, even though the specs call for ACEA C2 0W-20. A 5W-30 completely synthetic oil matching ACEA A5/B5 or ACEA C3 requirements is usually required for this engine (G4LA/GL4F), according to AI. My four suggestions are based on information from three official Kia sources as well as AI. Very transparent. From what I can see, everything is focused on getting the most gas mileage possible, which isn't really important to me, but I have done some research in the hopes of finding anything distinguishing. I also won't have to turn the key in the ignition when driving in England in temperatures of -20 degrees plus. 0W-20 doesn't seem like it will be able to provide the long-term protection and smooth operation that my engine needs. Shell Helix ACEA C3 5W-30 is the oil of choice for my Subarus and my wife's old i10 (which I assume has the same engine), but after reading all the mixed reviews, I'd probably settle for ACEA C2 0W-30 (TotalEnergieS Quartz 9000 HKR GF6A 0W-30 or something similar) because it's thicker than 0W-20. However, how can one proceed? Any suggestions, guys? I'm awful at deciding.

I had a tyre similar to that on my MG ZT CDTI (BMW 320D engine) around two weeks after it was new. It was on the back, and I had to replace it along with a pig. I can't remember the exact name of the bush, but I'm sure it had the word "toe" in it.

You won't always hear a peep of movement in the bush if the bushes are worn.

In most cases, worn rubber bushes won't produce a sound.

however, no outward signs such as a rattling, loudness, etc.

First, I'd straighten out the bushes. Then, I'd get the alignment checked. Even if they're fifteen years old already, they may be the originals.

Problem with alignment, caused by either the alignment itself or the geometry change caused by worn bushes.

There are 124,000 miles (210,000 km) on this 2011 BMW 323i U1 sedan with the VIN number E90 (MUE) and the body style Type PG77. The problem only manifests itself with the back tires. In 2020, I purchased IRONMAN rear tires, and they served me well until May of 2025. 2025 Last week, I got stranded in the road after getting fresh new KUMHO rear tires. I had driven around 35,000 or 20,000 miles since May 2025. I noticed that both tires looked like this: My rear tires never make a sound whether I drive over bumps, corners, curbs, highways, or anywhere else. I had my tires aligned four years ago. Is the pressure on them low? while driving in the cold with low tyre pressure Is something wrong with this? I am concerned that the same thing could happen to my brand new Good Year tires, which I have purchased. 😞 😞 I appreciate it.

I suppose so. Did the last MOT take wear into account?

Forget it; it's still sliding leftward on bumps. The only part that's sliding is the back left. Ideal is on the right. I have replaced the rear tires, shocks, and springs but still don't know what the problem is. Maybe bushings are what it is.

Poor damping is what it sounds like. You can rule it out because your tires are of great quality.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=goodyear&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xfd0343f7d09253db19c7b4030f96a48c&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Apologies, but those were regular Goodyear tires, not runflats.

The driver side front and rear springs were replaced due to corrosion and damage. The tyre pressures are accurate, and I repaired it for emergency purposes.