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Detailed Instructions for Replacing the Rear Wheel Bearing on an LS430


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Procedure for repairing the rear wheel bearing hub component on a Lexus LS430, manufactured between 2000 and 2007.

Greetings, everyone. After extensively reading several discussions on the topic of replacing rear wheel bearings, I noticed a lack of comprehensive information. Therefore, I decided to do the task myself and provide a set of precise instructions that may be of use. (To prevent them from slipping my mind...)

To determine which side is producing noise, do a test drive. Select a route with a smooth surface in order to clearly perceive the sound produced by the bearings, which should be distinguishable from the noise generated by the tyres.

When navigating a right-hand curve, the car's weight transfers towards the left side, causing the left-hand wheel to experience increased pressure and generate a distinct repetitive sound characterised by a rising and falling pitch. This sound eventually transitions into a steady, low-frequency growl that corresponds to the vehicle's speed when driving in a straight line.

The same applies to the bearing of the right hand. The noise will occur while navigating a leftward curve.

After identifying the specific wheel bearing that is causing the issue, it is now necessary to proceed with replacing the bearing. Purchase a fully assembled hub unit. Attempting to only replace the specific bearing inside the assembly is not worth the effort.
Not worth the inconvenience.

I conducted an extensive search on the internet and successfully obtained an authentic Toyota product for the price of $94.50, which includes delivery.

Required items:

    Choose between a torch or a leadlight.
    Reflective surface
    A socket with a diameter of 10 millimetres.
    Socket with a length of 17mm.
    A socket with a diameter of 19 millimetres.
    A 32mm socket with 12 points, designed for a 1/2" drive, together with either a breaker bar or an impact gun.
    A ratchet wrench and a few brief extensions.
    Tool used for gripping, bending, and cutting objects, typically consisting of two hinged metal pieces with serrated jaws.
    Adequate-sized 2 or 3 claw puller (even a cheap one would do for the task).
    A 6-inch segment of flat steel, measuring about 1/2 inch in width, may be manipulated to form a 90-degree hook at one end and a 1-inch, opposite-facing 90-degree bend at the other end. Creating a stretched-out Z shape.


Elevate the rear wheel with the malfunctioning bearing and detach the road wheel.

Place an axle stand behind the subframe mount located at the front of the wheel arch to ensure safety.

Detach the brake calliper by unscrewing the two bolts measuring 19mm each, and secure it to relieve pressure on the brake line.

Detach the brake disc, which is secured only by the roadwheel.

Detach the split pin from the axle's end and remove the castellated locking cover.

Utilise a 32mm socket and breaker bar (or impact gun) to loosen the axle nut.

Detach the 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor and carefully extract the sensor to clear the path. Examine the contents of

Observe the sheetmetal cover over the ABS cog and you will see a hole.

Apply WD40 to the axle splines located in the hub. You may need to provide the axle's termination point with

Apply a delicate strike with a hammer and copper drift to dislodge it inside the splines.

Position the puller claws around the hub and align the threaded portion at the middle of the axle.

Apply torque to the puller in order to exert force on the axle, causing it to move towards the differential. The displacement will be around 1 inch.

The measurement is 1.5 inches.

It is important to emphasise that there is no need to remove the CV joint rubber boot. (The user's text does not provide any specific information or context. Please provide more details or a specific question so that I can assist you better.)</text

The hub assembly is secured to the hub carrier using four 17mm bolts. They

The ABS cog wheel is partially concealed by a circular pressed sheetmetal cover. Manipulate the previously bent strip of steel by moving the end that has been bent inward by 1/2 inch.

Behind this protective metal cover, there is a mechanism that is securely attached to the hub carrier.

To effectively observe your actions, it is necessary to own both the torch and the mirror.

I applied force to the opposite end of the 1" bent object, using a drift, and proceeded to tap it with care.

located in the car's middle, in a few specific areas on the cover, and it

Dislodged and became detached.

This allows you to manipulate the 17mm socket, along with a short extension, onto all four.

The bolts are located at the rear of the hub carrier. Their tightness was not severe, hence they were

Relatively simple to reverse. After completely exiting, carefully navigate the slide into the parking area.

Apply the braking mechanism to gently tap the old hub carrier (which you are replacing) in order to free it.

It. Over time, it will gradually shift and detach from its circular indentation.

Gently extract it, and meticulously cleanse the circular indentation with a delicate wire brush or


Install a new bearing/hub assembly, as the saying goes, with precision.

Reversal of removal.

Partially tighten the 4x17mm bolts in a diagonal pattern to ensure proper fastening.

The hub is positioned vertically inside its enclosure. Then fasten firmly.

Ensure precise alignment of the ABS sensor hole on the sheetmetal cover.

The location is identical to the one you previously saw when you extracted the sensor.

Detach the puller and let the inherent tension in the axle to push it through.

A novel centre. This action will exert force on the sheetmetal cover, causing it to move into the desired position, but it may also result in some flexibility or give.

Apply a delicate tap from the rear to confirm that it is properly positioned.

Tighten the axle nut with an impact gun or bar. Fortified lid and divided

Insert the pin. The ABS sensor has been reinstalled and securely fastened with a bolt. Engage the brake disc. Attach the calliper and secure it firmly.

Two bolts measuring 19 millimetres in diameter. Place the axle stand outside, attach and secure the wheel, and use the jack.

Ensure that you thoroughly clean yourself and tidy up before coming into contact with the upholstery.

The task has been completed. Lexie is once again silent. The previous bearing exhibited indications of corrosion.

Therefore, the noise.

I hope that this information proves beneficial. The estimated duration of the task is around 2 hours. It is time to have a cup of coffee (or another beverage of choice).

Alcoholic beverage made from fermented grains or malt, typically containing hops for flavour and aroma.


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Please categorise this in the "How To" section. I trust that it proves advantageous to several LS proprietors.

I purchased the automobile when it had accumulated a mileage of 137,500km, and I detected the sound of the bearings on my first test drive. Upon encountering several accounts of exorbitant expenses incurred by owners for bearing replacement, as well as the need to dismantle drive shafts, exhaust systems, and other components, I felt compelled to do a thorough investigation. To my astonishment, I discovered that the task was quite straightforward.

I lament the fact that I was unable to allocate time for capturing visual documentation of my advancements. Regrettably, my strict job deadlines and little free time hindered me from cleaning my hands and taking periodic photographs.

By the way, Rupert, I discovered a fragment - M25, located downhill from Junction 8, in the anticlockwise direction.

(It is challenging to manoeuvre and change direction rapidly in order to determine the source of the noise.)

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Apologies. Large digits.

I have had a few small issues with my automobile and I am seeking assistance from anybody who can provide aid.

1. The CD player has ceased to load. I attempted to extract and replace the appropriate fuses, which resulted in audible indications of an effort to function, but unfortunately, no success was achieved.

The CD functioned well upon purchase.

2. The glovebox latch is without its ornamental cover. The black plastic base component of the handle is intact, allowing me to access the glovebox. However, the beige (or tan) cover has been dislodged by someone's fingernails and is now missing. Is there someone available to provide assistance?

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I believe I achieved it by chance. Through an internet search on platforms such as eBay and US parts suppliers, I fortuitously discovered a supplier in the United States who was liquidating a large quantity of outdated inventory.

Fortunately, the item in question is a normal Toyota component, rather than one that is specially designed for Lexus vehicles. As a result, I found it to be relatively inexpensive. There is a wide selection of aftermarket bearings on the market. However, I have come across information online suggesting that certain inexpensive options have a short lifespan. Therefore, I was determined to get an authentic bearing, even if it was offered at a discounted price.

Regrettably, I am unable to provide more precise and useful information. However, I suggest you continue searching the internet diligently. I vaguely recall the name RockAuto in the United States, however I cannot be quite certain whether that is the provider I used. However, their pricing are favourable.

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Shouldn't the extensive instructions explicitly include the need of using a torque wrench to install the axle nut? As a beginner, I adhered to the directions and inadvertently caused damage to the assembly, resulting in a loss of $210.00.

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Assistance required. My hub is immobilised! Refuses to move. I adhered to all of your directions for removal.

The four 4-17 mm bolts have been removed. Strike it with a sledgehammer, but there was no effect. I applied PB blaster on it, but it had no effect. I am experiencing a state of extreme mental distress and uncertainty on my future course of action. Suggestions for a novice?  Thank you in advance. Rear wheel hub on a 2001 LS 430.

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It seems that the bearings in my rear wheel need replacement. Since both fronts were completed last year, it is reasonable to anticipate this outcome.
I am unable to perceive the "woooom-woooom" sound, but there is a persistent low-pitched sound when the speed exceeds 15 miles per hour (not related to tyre noise), and the pitch does vary as I make turns.
The increase in drone frequency is directly correlated with the speed of the vehicle on the road, indicating potential issues with the rear wheel bearings, the differential, or the prop-shaft bearing(s).
I will be bringing it to Westfield on Wednesday, where they will provide me with a diagnosis.

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