Jollyno

Apologies, the video has been rectified now. I will attempt to replace the rocker cover gasket regardless, thank you.

NOTICE I am youthful and foolish. Acquired a 1996 E36 as my inaugural vehicle. Familiarise yourself with the elements and locations of the primary engine components, and that suffices. I prefer to repair the vehicle independently rather than entrust it to a mechanic, though I recognise that this may not be prudent; I will resort to a mechanic if required. Acquired the vehicle a few weeks prior; the seller asserts it had no leaks, was transported 500 miles to my location, began leaking the following day, and exhibited increased leakage after subsequent driving. The E36 exhibits leaks from multiple locations; refer to the attached video and my grievances during the MOT, which indicated a rocker cover gasket issue. However, since that was three years ago, it could either be a relevant concern or something to disregard, as it may have been repaired or replaced to prevent recurrence. Small droplets are accumulating along the timing chain cover and across the oil pan, with some forming higher up. I appreciate your attention, and I kindly request that you refrain from labelling me as foolish, as it is painful.

I do not. I recall that during the huge snowfall and subzero temperatures, it emerged there. This post motivated me to investigate.

It is absent in Vehicle Diagnostics. Other locations remain extant. Android version 2.1.22

Intriguing, since this prompted me to examine my connections. The 12V status has vanished.

There is nothing wrong with 280bhp; it seems to be an intriguing endeavour. I will be observing with keen attention.

Well done! The invoice for this lot is likely to be unfavourable, I presume. It seems that the modifications will result in a really fast vehicle. And boisterous, but positively so. Eagerly anticipating the completion of this assembly.

What is the status of this project, Steve? Have you achieved any advancements so far?

Regrettably, not all mirrors exceed 100, so I will just get the motor. My mirrors do not automatically fold; I wish they would.

I am aware of the screw in the centre; but, are there further clips or components of concern? Thank you.

The glass of my N/S door mirror is inoperable, perhaps due to malfunctioning internal motors. Is there a tutorial available for replacing it? The prices on eBay are reasonable, superior than purchasing a whole mirror; but, I am unable to get information on how to detach it. I have previously removed the glass and cap, so I am familiar with that process. Assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you very much 2014 Series 3 320d F31

I have retrieved the EV3 User Manual from the 'Kia Owners Manual' application, which contains fuse diagrams.

That is an unusual exclusion from the handbook. The handbook often includes a maintenance section at its conclusion, when fuses are specified. This issue should be reported to Kia customer service, with the expectation that it would be addressed in future manuals.

The liquid inside the cylinder must be pressurised to inflict injury. I removed the plugs and coils. The Seafoam traversed the intake, passed through the valves, and exited the top of the cylinder. It is difficult to conceive of any harm resulting from it. The little amount of Seafoam that entered the exhaust likely facilitated carbonisation as well.

It is a plastic intake; nonetheless, there are few aspects that may be further deteriorated. The EGR pipe connects to the tiny ports on the intake and subsequently to the manifold. Seafoam is formulated particularly for injector cleaning, making it entirely safe for use in cylinders. The obstructed channels undoubtedly expelled debris and carbon along with the Seafoam. I removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine, which expelled the debris from the top of the engine instead of obstructing the catalytic converter. Upon reassembling the EGR and reinserting the plugs and coils, I emitted a substantial cloud of white smoke. The vehicle is operating much better; it has not shown rattling throughout six cold starts, the persistent OBD misfire errors have been eliminated, and power has been enhanced.

Thank you for the reminder; I have bought a PCV valve and will replace it as soon as possible. I have delayed the removal of the intake due to the difficulty encountered with the EGR and cooler removal. I introduced Seafoam into the EGR pipe, allowing it to traverse the intake ports. Expelled a significant amount of debris from the spark plug wells and exhaust system.

The hybrid battery was changed after 190,000 miles. Charges efficiently as shown by the Dr. Prius application. Unconcerned over the matter. No coolant is expelled via the spark plug wells when they are devoid of fluid. The coils and plugs were aged, so I replaced them. The EGR is completely clean and functioning properly. I will wait to confirm it is resolved after 10 cold starts without any rattling. Thank you.

The engine has 270,000 miles, and oil changes were consistently performed every 9,000 miles. It produces a rattling sound for 1-2 seconds on cold starts. The EGR and intake were excessively coated with residue, so I used Seafoam to clean them. Today, I am replacing the coils and spark plugs. Additionally, administering injector cleaner. Cylinders 1 and 4 are excessively clean, suggesting potential coolant infiltration. The compression is 120 psi in all four cylinders. Perhaps they were cleaned using a gasoline additive? If the head is damaged, I will replace the engine. I want a definitive diagnosis. Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.

Indeed, my Alfa consistently exhibited seepage from that location, regardless of the sealing methods used. Similar to yours, it never produced real drips on the ground, rather remaining damp.

The TPSS will remain in place.

There ought to be a simple solution; the box isn't very sophisticated to begin with, and getting a speed indication should be a breeze. To begin with, it doesn't see nearly enough to function. It's probably just revolutions per minute (rpm), speed, pedal position, and maybe coolant temperature, but I can't be sure.

It likely perceives 23 as too rapid. At what speed does it emit a beep in a 30 zone?

The primary advantage of a bigger and heavier battery in plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) is the capability for pure electric propulsion. For those who often do extensive freeway journeys, a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) is inferior to a hybrid electric vehicle (HEV); in fact, it is less advantageous. The most efficient choice in this context is the 1.8 hybrid and practical drives. This variant's fuel efficiency will approximate that of the Prius and Yaris, with the Corolla 1.8 achieving over 60 mpg in summer and over 50 mpg in winter. The 2.0 HEV may approximate these statistics; however, one must exert more effort and adopt a more relaxed driving style. The crucial aspects contributing to success are the lightweight of the 1.8, the power-to-weight ratio, aerodynamics, and smaller tires, all of which are significant. The PHEV is essentially identical to the 2.0, but consistently accommodates two more people in terms of weight. A further disadvantage of PHEVs is the plug. A hectic existence, necessitating simultaneous presence in several locations and contemplating when or where to recharge, renders the opportunity to pause and rejuvenate unfeasible.