Jollyno

The hybrid battery was changed after 190,000 miles. Charges efficiently as shown by the Dr. Prius application. Unconcerned over the matter. No coolant is expelled via the spark plug wells when they are devoid of fluid. The coils and plugs were aged, so I replaced them. The EGR is completely clean and functioning properly. I will wait to confirm it is resolved after 10 cold starts without any rattling. Thank you.

The engine has 270,000 miles, and oil changes were consistently performed every 9,000 miles. It produces a rattling sound for 1-2 seconds on cold starts. The EGR and intake were excessively coated with residue, so I used Seafoam to clean them. Today, I am replacing the coils and spark plugs. Additionally, administering injector cleaner. Cylinders 1 and 4 are excessively clean, suggesting potential coolant infiltration. The compression is 120 psi in all four cylinders. Perhaps they were cleaned using a gasoline additive? If the head is damaged, I will replace the engine. I want a definitive diagnosis. Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.

Indeed, my Alfa consistently exhibited seepage from that location, regardless of the sealing methods used. Similar to yours, it never produced real drips on the ground, rather remaining damp.

The TPSS will remain in place.

There ought to be a simple solution; the box isn't very sophisticated to begin with, and getting a speed indication should be a breeze. To begin with, it doesn't see nearly enough to function. It's probably just revolutions per minute (rpm), speed, pedal position, and maybe coolant temperature, but I can't be sure.

It likely perceives 23 as too rapid. At what speed does it emit a beep in a 30 zone?

The primary advantage of a bigger and heavier battery in plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) is the capability for pure electric propulsion. For those who often do extensive freeway journeys, a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) is inferior to a hybrid electric vehicle (HEV); in fact, it is less advantageous. The most efficient choice in this context is the 1.8 hybrid and practical drives. This variant's fuel efficiency will approximate that of the Prius and Yaris, with the Corolla 1.8 achieving over 60 mpg in summer and over 50 mpg in winter. The 2.0 HEV may approximate these statistics; however, one must exert more effort and adopt a more relaxed driving style. The crucial aspects contributing to success are the lightweight of the 1.8, the power-to-weight ratio, aerodynamics, and smaller tires, all of which are significant. The PHEV is essentially identical to the 2.0, but consistently accommodates two more people in terms of weight. A further disadvantage of PHEVs is the plug. A hectic existence, necessitating simultaneous presence in several locations and contemplating when or where to recharge, renders the opportunity to pause and rejuvenate unfeasible.

Currently, I am contemplating if it is necessary for me to do a gearbox oil change on my just acquired 2018 E Class 220, w213 Automatic, awaiting the receipt of the anticipated service history report. As a routine practice, I replaced all the oils in my two prior Mercedes-Benz vehicles, a 2010 model and a 2014 model. I have seen many YouTube videos about the procedure, and it seems to be quite straightforward. However, in a particular video, I saw that just the transmission fluid was replaced, but the torque converter fluid was left unchanged. When I enquired about this, I was advised that Mercedes Benz recommends against changing the torque converter fluid. That being said, I have always held the belief that engine and gearbox fluids and filters are replaced with precision in order to purify the fluid and safeguard the moving components from detrimental particles. Has anybody on the forum been familiar with the concept of partial fluid change, as suggested by Mercedes-Benz?

If all other components are functioning well, I suggest attempting to replace the headunit.

I have come across some postings that touch with this topic indirectly via a side conversation. However, I would want to explicitly address this matter to enquire about people's own experiences. During performance mode, I like to approach the maximum engine speed in the first and second gears when driving in urban areas, for obvious reasons. You have the opportunity to harness the engine's powerful sound and experience rapid acceleration right from the start. In my opinion, this is the optimal way to operate the automobile according to its intended design and purpose. I would want to know the ideal shifting ranges for each gear. If you want to get the most acceleration from one gear to another, is it more advantageous to reach the maximum engine speed (red line) for each gear or is it preferable to shift slightly before reaching the red line, around 6-7k rpm? There exists a table of diminishing returns while approaching the red line and shifting up, as the gearbox needs to locate the next gear position. If the engine speed is far beyond the proper range for the gear, performance is compromised owing to the resetting of engine speed. I am interested in knowing the ideal RPM ranges for moving gears 1 to 3.

Number omitted. I highly discourage disclosing your personal number on a public forum - anyone may privately message you to get it.

I am a member of @asphalt.theory and previously organised a vehicle club in this area, including several drives and communities.

Indeed, Ziinsig. There is a social circle called socalR8 that consists of several exceptional people from various locations in Los Angeles, as well as San Diego and California as a whole.

I have a preference for the W204 makeover. Regardless, it must be acknowledged that the C63 BS Coupe undeniably has the appearance of a powerful creature.

https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/pcv-valves/products/rkx-audi-3-0t-pcv-assembly-repair-kit

Both the stat and pump have undergone several revisions and are prone to regular failures. I believe I have seen the statistic become immobile in the closed position. If you need to disconnect the charger, it would be advisable to do the stat, pump, and PCV procedures, provided that none of these have been carried out lately. Additionally, there is a plastic pipe that originates from the rear of the thermostat housing and extends towards the rear of the engine in a V shape. This pipe often fractures at the connection near the housing due to its brittleness over time. The newer version of the CREC engine has a metallic conduit, and it is uncertain if it can be installed as an upgrade on older models. Utilise the search function on our website to locate certain parts. It is an excellent tool for finding the desired components. The website can be found at https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ You may find the thermostat for your 2014.5 CREC engine S5 at the following link: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/06E121111AS/audi-coolant-regulator-06e121111as. It is possible that the thermostat for your engine is the same as the one listed. The water pump is identified by the part number 06E 121 018H. The specified item is a coolant pipe with the part number 06E 121 065N. I own a recently acquired RKX PCV repair kit that includes a robust Viton diaphragm designed to replace the existing one in the PCV housing, eliminating the need to purchase an entirely new housing. I had a PCV problem, but I resolved it by replacing the PCV solenoid pipe. This successfully resolved the PCV issue, therefore I did not need to use the RKX PCV valve.

https://update.kia.com/EU/E1/navigationUpdate

No licence required. Are you retrieving data from the Kia website?

I do not recall any vacuum-related components on my EGR or cooler. I will examine the matter at a later time and return somewhat earlier, namely at 5:37am.

Blackwings are aesthetically pleasing. Do you still own the Subaru?

These autos are equipped with compressors that have desiccant air dryers. Over a period of 13 years, the desiccant material, in the form of granules, gradually deteriorates into a powdery substance that may impede both the intake and release of air. The symptoms you've mentioned may be attributed to this. If the error recurs, examine the brand of your compressor. Replacing the granules is a reasonably simple process.

As mentioned before, it is likely that your compressor is obstructed. I anticipate that the problem may reoccur in the near future since the compressor has difficulty in releasing air. Please provide us with regular updates.

I am uncertain about the meaning of your statement "I am unable to successfully complete this task." What occurs during the process of calibration? Does the issue persist if you interchange the height sensors, swapping the left one with the right one? Are they inexpensive sensors?

Are there any error codes? That would be the first point of contact. I had comparable problems that ultimately necessitated a reconstruction of the compressor. An uncomplicated assignment. However, without any specific instructions or guidelines, you are just making uninformed guesses or attempts without any clear direction.

At this stage, doing a visual inspection or using a boroscope to examine the plug holes may uncover any potential damage.