Jollyno

It would be advisable to specify the kind of engine (most likely one of the diesel options) and the type of transmission (manual or automatic).

thannk you all 😆

Greetings, I am now seeking to purchase my first automobile in the United Kingdom. After careful consideration, I selected the Toyota Yaris 3rd Generation (2017 model) with an upgraded 1.5L Petrol engine and automatic gearbox. I need an automobile that is dependable and devoid of any issues or complications. 🤣 During my visits to several Toyota major dealerships, I have seen a number of approved-used automobiles. I am perplexed by the presence of rust on the suspension, springs, and lower arms of these cars, particularly in the wheel arches region and beyond the alloy rim. Is it very probable to find an automobile without corrosion in the UK? This led me to the following inquiries: Is the presence of rust on the suspension, spring, or lower arm considered acceptable? Will driving it for another 5 years or 50000 miles result in significant problems? I think purchasing a pre-owned Toyota that has been officially authorised is typically considered a secure option. I am being extremely cautious in my selection process after discovering that a dealership, which claims to be 'official', has a vehicle that was serviced by an independent garage under the previous owner. The maintenance stamp indicates that the intervals between services were over 15000 miles, which is quite significant. The previous owner tried to persuade me that the independent garage used official Toyota recommended parts during the servicing, thus ensuring that the warranty remains valid. Undoubtedly, I will not choose this unit since maintaining it beyond 10,000 miles would result in severe degradation of the engine oil and erosion of the engine and metal components. Nevertheless, I am of the opinion that doing thorough research and investigation will enable me to get a unit that provides me with a sense of tranquilly and assurance. Has anybody have experience dealing with a primary dealer? What is your overall experience? Thank you.

Hello, which battery is required to address the Sos failure issue? I own a BMW 320d sport model from the 2018 registration year. Thank you.

Pleasant. I am now in the process of procuring a new head unit for my CLK 500. I already own a 1500-watt 10-inch subwoofer and amplifier to complement it. I would also consider replacing the normal speakers, but I would want to assess their ability to handle the additional bass first. I had initially planned to purchase the wiring kit in order to retain the functionality of the steering wheel controls. However, upon further consideration, I have concluded that the additional cost is not justified. I could reconsider my decision in the future.

From where did you get your authentic rear bearing? I am unable to locate any at a price lower than 300.

Indeed, I concur. Typically, I use my Aldi battery drill, which has been in my possession for a duration of 5 years, and remains in excellent condition, boasting a pair of batteries. However, due to my advanced age, I own a compilation of antiquated primary drilling devices, some of which I have refurbished by substituting their brushes and wires. I own a plug-in mains speed controller that predates trigger-based speed control. (I constructed this project based on a design from the Practical Electronics magazine some centuries ago.) (I recently retrieved it in order to test it on my Aldi electric cultivator, since the cultivator tends to move away from you and spray you with soil when in use!) However, I also like SDS drills. Specifically, I own a Bosch drill that requires the installation of new chokes and brushes, which I purchased some years ago. I use this drill for delicate tasks such as drilling holes. In addition, there is a sizable and weighty SDS tool specifically designed for chiselling channels in concrete and creating huge holes. Nowadays, everything is becoming burdensome. I like to minimise the variety of battery kinds and chargers, as you said.

🤘

Thank you everyone, that is excellent! I will examine the given options.

The purpose is to remove the wheels. This is the equipment used in the automotive workshop or tyre service centre. Indeed, they verify the ultimate torque with a torque wrench. As I want.

Thank you, it is the approach I would have used before to developing arthritis. I have reached the expiration of the 7-year warranty and may consider doing brake repairs. I myself extract oil and other substances. (Assuming my body allows) Additionally, inspecting running equipment, terminations, and so forth.I need assistance and intend to use power tools. Several products that seemed suitable were criticised for their lack of sufficient power.

Is there anybody who has an electric impact driver that has the ability to remove wheel-nuts? Specifically, regarding my 66 reg Venga, it is theoretically recommended to use 98Nm (72.3 ftlb) of torque to loosen the fasteners. However, it is quite likely that a greater amount of torque will be necessary to loosen them once they have been tightened by the garage or tyre depot, or if they have become more difficult to turn over time. I regret not include the term "reasonably priced". I have come across several negative reviews of allegedly excellent inexpensive equipment and strongly support the idea of saving money, but it is crucial that the item is capable of fulfilling its intended purpose. Therefore, I kindly request any practical information or experience on the matter. Does not need a battery for operation.

The garage deserves high praise! The wait will be worthwhile. Consider things from this perspective. Those tasks would still need completion in the immediate future, resulting in many days of continued automobile unavailability. By addressing the matter beforehand, you may resolve it prior to assuming ownership, therefore experiencing the additional satisfaction of receiving favourable treatment from the dealer. Alternatively, it is possible that there is no issue with it and he is just earning some money before to your scheduled pickup tomorrow.

I would promptly rinse off the salt with fresh water. Remove the carpets and thoroughly clean both the interiors and the carpets by washing them many times in fresh water.

It has recently been completed. Is the thermostat assembly and sensor considered as a single unit?

Based on my analysis, it is most likely that the issue is with the coolant sensor. This conclusion is drawn from the observation that the temperature dropped abruptly from 60 degrees to 0 while driving. Restarting the automobile restored the temperature to 80 degrees.

Is it prone to easy bleeding?

Greetings everyone, I am new to the world of Mercedes and my experience so far has been less than satisfactory. Multiple problems have been identified with a 2011 E350 CDi, but the most recent one is a noticeable smell of burning oil. An independent expert has determined that the cause of this issue is related to problems with the oil cooler and the main rear seal. All substitutions have been made. I am now experiencing an issue where the temperature gauge remains stationary or only reaches a maximum of around 60 degrees. When the gauge is stationary, the ECO light does not illuminate, and the function is not functioning. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? Temperature sensor?