DaisyDrift

My vehicle has reached 75,000 miles, thus it is comparable. I have experienced minor stuttering at partial throttle and occasionally a wisp of blue smoke upon ignition (I had the startup roar activated in bm3). I experienced minor pressure while opening the oil filler cap during operation, leading me to suspect the PCV valve; I had purchased a new valve cover but had not yet found the time to replace it… Currently, there is an excessive amount of compression in the crankcase; it resembles the sensation of placing your hand over the exhaust.

My vehicle's date is March 2017, so I suspect the injectors are original 👎 I doubt they have been replaced, although it's possible - I will verify the part numbers on the injectors when I remove the engine. Legit streetcars recently released a video detailing a Mercedes engine failure caused by improper spark plug alignment, resulting in a melted cylinder wall - it seems almost unbelievable 🤯 The notice I possess is in Danish, but I will endeavor to translate it and forward it.

Identical narrative to my 2017 Countryman Cooper S All4 that ceased functioning last week. Zero compression observed on cylinder two… I was also operating BM3 stage 1, but with 91 octane. I also have significant reservations that the melody was the cause of its demise. I discovered a service bulletin regarding the B48, indicating that the spark plugs must be oriented properly; otherwise, the electrode may disrupt the injector spray pattern and flame front, potentially leading to melted pistons and cylinder walls. Mercedes encountered the identical problem. Interestingly, I replaced the spark plugs with Bosch ones approximately six months ago… I still need to verify whether the plugs have different threading, but Bosch claims they are not clock-specific. I have been considering replacing the B48A20T1 from the LCI JCW models, but it appears to be a complex task due to the altered DME module and its utilization of a more recent "bordnetz" communication protocol compared to the 2017 BDC. Additionally, it necessitated replacing the transmission, although that would have been feasible.

I have successfully activated plug and charge in Electroverse, and it appears as operational on the Ford App; I will test it during my next long journey.

Amazon.co.uk : Ford Puma

Amazon.co.uk : Electroverse EV charging

I primarily recharge at home, yet I appreciated the ease of plug-and-charge on the previous Blueoval charging network. Consequently, I periodically verified whether the Puma had been incorporated into Electroverse, and it appears that the recent TCU-26.2.11.5 update has facilitated its inclusion.

This video was found using a fast Google search, but there will be more.

Detach the bumper.

Apply a little WD-40 or something similar once it has dried. Wash them gently with a jet-wash.

I suppose so. Did the last MOT take wear into account?

Poor damping is what it sounds like. You can rule it out because your tires are of great quality.

The dampers may not be working properly. I am curious as to why the springs were replaced. By the way, could you tell me what kind of tires were put on, and I'll assume the pressures are right?

That is a really thoughtful reply. I am really appreciative. Throughout are a few excellent pieces of advice. There are 127,000 miles on the vehicle. It is a 2010 model year. Instead of a service book, it just includes a few haphazard receipts. It appears that the air filter has been neglected for a while, given its state and the number of unresolved issues.

These will fall if the panel is removed carelessly. Here, YouTube is great. I can rebuild it, but it's going to be a real pain. You may find new replacement panels on eBay. While it's out, change the bulbs in the back; that's probably why someone took it apart and destroyed it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116870869553?fits=Car+Make:Mercedes-Benz&_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20240415110138&meid=f7fcd442dd2441cebd1b7a3adaba7861&pid=101875&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=335543581674&itm=116870869553&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2332490&algv=SimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatReco&brand=Trucktec+Automotive&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum:116870869553f7fcd442dd2441cebd1b7a3adaba7861|enc:AQAKAAABYCggmqi%2BjGBvS8WShKTeLW5J2g6qXnzgH61T5t8ujPfO4ZJHWSDajmSreRV%2BXNto1elxKNVVM64kNmwVgiMN2szhK0tlR1011FXMzSAB1PUgv3YfSpR1rhptekHpigLfP0ecJgwNe2pRkmfW%2B3c3dKMszZ8EBS%2BPrP%2F9xIMfOGg7iuIfw%2FFDuxCGlnZ7D3zgzTgy9DT4%2FS1LGPGydF%2BKwF9lTD7jlYVT7xPKhGqy39hGE8w8PJvaKk06XNzpIlaFQu7Pc2PhpPC%2FLZ4ZS5Fd%2BVmYjS4Sycj9rg7mxJCIClaeI9XvAYQ%2F9jfg6eilx1CW22rnBYhd%2Fz2GfmcyXT7cQwfU0jXVQdGQdI%2FRE%2Be3aRYEsbp1kEtV9d%2FFS1mpu9AQnqnAyIjyxNroh%2FB5QDBHL6s7W7WvO9VZmi0JXErPzjVzJ7m%2BmyLBAoAtkTsH5hEFQSiSXh6iA%2Bi1fIHQW%2F5uNW8%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2332490&epid=1027347547&itmmeta=01KB82JK0KBBGW9XAV4JNHE8N2&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X22d8b1553c31b0acceae4be1fe8d7448&subId2=15

I don't know what you mean, but I would check the wiring leading to the engine control unit (pilot bush). The 'o' rings are movable.

After giving the seal a thorough washing with white spirit, I proceeded to run a bead of silicon across its inside and exterior. On occasion, I would check for signs of seepage by running a white tissue beneath the turbo connect.

“Why” is the key point. Other points made thereafter, nevertheless, may provide light.

A creeping mission! There will be a complete fluid change and the cost that goes along with it. You should rethink the first idea if the leak isn't severe and if you don't have a lot of emotional investment in the car. Simply add more and watch the results unfold. Note that the initial fluid loss could be substantial if the fluid is draining or leaking to the level of the leak. If you had half a litre of fluid and a plastic funnel, you'd be able to tell which way to jump.

Where is the missing oil? That's the query that came to mind. I guess it depends on how bad the leak is if it needs fixing.

That isn't the hard part. Instructions will accompany any info that deals with checking the level - handbook?

There are two advantages if a drain plug is available. Before you add new oil, remove the old, worn-out fluid. Then, use the torque converter volume as a reference to determine the fill quantity. But that's only true if the drain is plugged in.

So, you're not "big on skills," huh? Is it possible to remove the current fluid using the drain plug? Just because...