TraumaLaugh

Indeed, it is highly probable that you are experiencing issues with the injectors. What is the mileage on your vehicle? My vehicle has precisely 80,000 miles. And was functioning exceptionally well. I experienced an unusual drive train failure merely a month or two following my acquisition of the vehicle. I dismissed it at the moment, and a swift shutdown and reboot resolved the issue, which never recurred. However, I believe I remember an individual stating in a forum discussion that this could signify faulty injectors. The damaged engine serves as a clear indication of the issue.:( I possess knowledge of Legit Street Cars. It would be absurd if the timing of spark plugs led to engine failure. Manufacturers are driving engines to their limits to extract every micrometer of efficiency, primarily to comply with emissions standards.

That is unfortunate. I have studied the technique of clocking spark plugs to achieve a marginal enhancement in power. However, I have never encountered GDI engines exhibiting such sensitivity. I question whether that was relevant to the situation. I would wager that your engine experienced the same problem as mine, given that it is also a 2017 model. My vehicle was equipped with the original injectors, and BMW developed an updated version. The injectors are prone to leakage, which erodes the oil from the cylinder walls, ultimately leading to piston failure. The discussion on the BabyBMW forum indicates that both the B46/B48 and B58 have encountered this issue. Examine the door label on the driver's side to ascertain the manufacturing date of your vehicle. If it predates August 2017 and contains the original injectors, that is the cause. My vehicle was manufactured in May 2017 and still possesses the original fuel injectors. I will procure a pre-owned engine and compile a list of components. I will simply replace it with the identical engine. I discovered several videos on YouTube featuring an individual who performed a swap on a 2017 Mini. This will assist in understanding the process, although I possess a basic comprehension of the necessary actions. My vehicle features a manual transmission, and there exists an ACT clutch installation video demonstrating the procedure for detaching the transmission from the automobile. I will execute that initially, followed by extracting the engine from above. Remove the obsolete components from the new engine and transfer the functional parts from my damaged engine to the donor. I contemplated performing the ACT clutch while I am present, but I remain uncertain. My factory clutch appeared to be functioning adequately with the 93 BM3 calibration. I am likely to acquire the entirely metallic oil filter housing/cooler since the standard plastic component is a recognized point of failure. Could you share the link to the spark plug clocking bulletin if you possess it? More inquisitive about it than anything else. I appreciate it.

The engine in my 2017 Mini Cooper S is essentially finished. I was operating a vehicle on the Interstate on Friday during daylight hours. Increased speed moderately and promptly experienced a decline in power, followed by alerts on the iDrive indicating diminished power and a drivetrain malfunction. Numerous misfire codes are present as well. I managed to drive the car home despite its limitations, covering a distance of approximately 5 miles. It probably caused additional harm, but I believe the primary damage occurred when the vehicle lost power. I commenced an investigation into the underlying cause and discovered this discussion: https://www.babybmw.net/threads/b48...threads/b48-b58-injector-failure-cracked-piston-bore-scoring-megathread.148577/ My vehicle aligns impeccably with the specified description. My vehicle is still equipped with the original injectors from before August 2017, which are responsible for the issue. I anticipated that the issue was merely injector malfunction, so I replaced them with the updated components, yet there was no improvement. Additionally, new spark plugs and ignition coils are included. Once more, there is no alteration. Subsequently, I conducted a compression assessment on all four cylinders. Cylinder 1 - 210 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 2 - 160 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 3 - 0 pounds per square inch. Cylinder 4 exhibits a pressure of 210 psi. It is probable that cylinder 3 possesses a fractured piston. Cylinder 2 is experiencing a problem with reduced compression. A fractured piston may also be present, along with potential cylinder scoring due to fuel washdown. I have thoroughly appreciated the vehicle and intend to repair it. The vehicle is clearly no longer covered by warranty, thus I will be undertaking the engine replacement independently. I intend to purchase a pre-owned engine and subsequently replace the existing one. Revitalize certain components. I have been utilizing a 93 octane Stage 1 Bootmod3 calibration. I cannot assert that this did not play a role in my engine deterioration, yet all the literature I have encountered regarding the B46/B48 engines indicates they are exceptionally robust and dependable. The 93 octane BM3 calibration is secure. I have additionally been utilizing a high-flow catalytic downpipe and an enhanced intercooler. It's unfortunate, but it is what it is.

You can reach it from under the plastic wheel arch, so replacing it should be a breeze.

The windows, steering, headlights, and gear shift are all powered by electricity. My brain lights up my arm, which cradles the window winder, and I spin it in a circular motion whenever I want the windows rolled down. The window lowers as if by some enchantment. I do the same thing when I want to park in reverse: my brain tells my arms to do it. I park the car while one of them shifts into reverse and the other controls the wheel. When I sense that it's getting dark, my brain instructs my right arm to extend forward and flip the switch for the headlights to the "on" position. I can shift gears by just signalling with my head, which then instructs my left arm to move the gear stick. Because (a) I am intelligent and (b) I am a competent driver, I am able to achieve all these amazing things. People who haven't mastered the art of driving are the ones who should not be driving these computer-laden modern vehicles. The mechanics at the garage, alas, lack brains. Instead than employing their limited cognitive abilities to determine the source of the problem, they blindly follow the instructions on their computer. The end result is that the consumer pays a hefty sum for services that were superfluous.

Oh, I see. Buying my 1983 W123 200 is the way to go. You won't find any electronics, adblu, DPF, warning lights, wind-up windows, LEZ costs, road tax, or MOT required (though I'm sure someone on this forum will renew mine tomorrow), and the annual insurance premium is £89 dollars. Unfortunately, I have to sell it because the sitting position is too much for my old knees.

Impressive vehicle; I was considering purchasing one to replace my M340i, but ultimately decided to get an M5. My favourite shade of that

I am certain that I received an Icy Road Warning last year (Winter 2024/25), yet this year, notwithstanding the cold spell, no such warnings have been issued. The ability to enable or disable this feature, previously located under 'Settings/Cluster,' has vanished. Does anyone else own this? I am curious whether the feature was eliminated in the most recent software upgrade (2025).

Thank you for the responses.Greatly appreciated! Could I enquire about the significance of mileage on one of these vehicles? I have been limiting my search to vehicles with fewer than 70,000 miles; however, would it be prudent to expand this criterion to include those with up to 100,000 miles? I have never possessed a vehicle with such high mileage, which is why I sought one with fewer than 70,000 miles.I am quite apprehensive about high mileage vehicles. Thank you!

Greetings to everybody, This will be my inaugural Mercedes, so I seek recommendations, tips, guidance, and pricing parameters, if you please. My wife and I currently possess a vehicle, hence we are seeking a suitable, semi-sporty convertible as a secondary car, specifically interested in the aesthetic of the 2005-2010 SLK or CLK 200. This category of vehicle appears to be enjoyable while being cost-effective. Preferably, fewer than 75,000 miles and a maximum budget of £3,000 for a 2009 or 2010 model. Several listings have appeared on eBay, although at far higher prices (about £4,000 to £4,500).Do you believe my budget is unrealistic? I found an appealing SLK 200 on eBay, depicted in the accompanying image, in burgundy red; however, it is priced at £4500.I proposed £3,000 and a swift transaction, but they declined. Should I revise my budget or my expectations? Autotrader has not presented any viable options either.It is possible that the current season is not conducive for individuals to sell convertibles, resulting in a lack of listings. Is it really a matter of waiting and observing? I examined the classifieds here; however, there were no listings, regrettably. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Thank you for the information. However, I now use it to traverse the A303 each weekend for my travel from London to Cornwall, therefore I need it consistently. I regret not resolving it when it was inactive during the ULEZ vintage automobile waiting period. Retrospective insight and all that

Understood, thank you for the information. Thank you

Indeed, I saw that, although it seems quite different. Is the image just inaccurate? Thank you.