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I encountered the identical issue with my ALFA 156 V6 Veloce 2.5 Busso. It required some time for me to comprehend it. Under typical driving conditions and loads, it functioned adequately; but, at elevated RPMs and loads, when attempting to circulate the water more rapidly, it overheated until I reduced speed, contrary to expectations given the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. The issue was identified as the water pump. The plastic impeller of the water pump was slipping on the shaft under load, obstructing the water flow. Upon replacing the pump, I was able to manipulate the impeller on the shaft using merely firm finger pressure. It appears to be a prevalent problem, as the new ALFA authentic replacement pump had a metal impeller affixed to the shaft by soldering. While it may not apply to your situation, I felt compelled to mention it because of the same symptoms. Have you attempted to bleed it to ascertain the presence of an airlock? Have you disassembled any components of the cooling system recently?

I possess the PHEV and regret not selecting the inline 6 instead. I have encountered no problems, except for a recall, but I do not consider the fuel efficiency to justify the trade-off regarding price and resale value. Prior to the expiration of the tax advantage, they offered absurd lease options for anyone wishing to experience the product before making a purchase. I am pleased to be merely leasing my. I appreciate the vehicle but would prefer to forgo the powerplant.

Indeed, that is my apprehension. I am unaware of what they towed. If they were towing an inappropriate load, it could have exerted additional strain on the gearbox. Do you believe that the fluid change is warranted?

I understand. I am apprehensive about potential issues arising later, similar to my previous vehicle, however I have received positive feedback regarding the ECVT. I observe others suggesting that the fluid ought to be replaced, leaving me uncertain on the appropriate course of action. My primary worry is that I was unaware, until I arrived at the store to purchase the vehicle, that it was equipped with a tow bar. This suggests that the car may have been utilised for towing a caravan at some point, which I recognise is not optimal for this particular model. Consequently, I felt there was an increased justification for changing the fluid. You are correct; the Uber and taxi services in my vicinity predominantly utilise Toyota vehicles. I may endeavour to alleviate my concerns and derive greater enjoyment from the car. I am pleased with my final decision to get this car. I was unprepared for the elevated revolutions produced by the hybrid, as I have never owned one before. Aside from that, I adore the vehicle.

Greetings everyone, I have lately purchased a CHR. This is kind of a narrative, but I believe it is important to elucidate my circumstances. I transitioned from a Mercedes to a C-HR, where the gearbox was designated as "sealed for life." Upon consulting Mercedes regarding fluid replacement at 85,000 miles, I was informed that it was effectively sealed for life, and changing it may potentially lead to complications. We will not alter anything and recommend that you refrain from making any modifications as well. If the gearbox malfunctions, it will not be due to the fluid not being replaced. Shortly thereafter, after 7,000 miles, I began to observe gear slippage and irregular gear transitions. I conversed with several individuals, and it became evident that despite the makers' claim of "sealed for life," one must disregard this assertion and nonetheless perform replacements; had this been done, it is likely that the current issue would not exist. The fluid has deteriorated and adversely affected the internal materials, thus replacing the fluid at this stage—while symptoms are evident—has a 30% likelihood of exacerbating the situation. Possibly engaging the gearbox into limp mode. Nevertheless, even if it addresses the sliding issue, it is quite probable that it will recur within one to two years. Particularly if yours is experiencing tremors, like mine did intermittently. Although infrequent, it did occur. I now possess a 2018 C-HR and am thoroughly enjoying it! To save a recurrence of history, I reached out to Day One today, and, disappointingly, they are reiterating the same information. The fluid will not be changed as it is designed to remain sealed for life. I contested this and expressed my desire to pay for a modification, despite its permanent sealing due to the aforementioned issue and my wish to prevent recurrence. May I request a modification? Their reply was: Good morning, I appreciate your reply. I have consulted with our service team regarding this matter, and they have indicated that it is not within their capabilities to execute. This is a sealed unit, preventing access for execution of this task. Please inform me if there is anything further with which I can assist you. I find myself in a predicament once more. I have extensively researched these particular gearboxes and 'ECVT'; yet, it appears that there remains fluid within this "sealed" unit, leaving me uncertain about the next steps. I lack the technical aptitude to undertake this task alone, particularly one as critical as the gearbox. I have a tenuous faith in mechanics, as they might commit errors that may not become apparent until three months later, leading to a situation where they assert, "It cannot be a result of our work, or it would have manifested immediately." I am enquiring about the activities of others. The vehicle has reached 59,000 miles. Is there a reputable ECVT/CVT Toyota specialist in the Kent area who is proficient in performing fluid changes correctly? Thank you for your perseverance in reading this narrative of a post. Amusing.

I was not enquiring primarily about the premium versus normal distinction; rather, I was curious if you are utilising unleaded 88/E15 fuel. I suggest tactfully introducing the concept of the significant recall over a defective fuel tank sending unit to the dealer and observing the direction of the ensuing dialogue.

Which fuel grade are you utilising? Are you manually calculating mileage or utilising the panel display to obtain your figures?

A thorough cleaning is the optimal first step. A leak near the mirror is far more prevalent. Wishing you success with it tomorrow.

Obstructed drains behind the windshield scuttle panel. Extremely prevalent. Remove the foliage and detritus.

I trust SilentSpanner's assertion on that matter.

Aesthetically pleasing automobile.

I have just changed the component on my C220 CDI estate, requiring eight socket extensions to complete the task. The task was quite straightforward after we identified the bolt and maneuvered it through, however it was somewhat arduous. In comparison to all other modifications made to the vehicle, it is a task I would delegate to a garage if I were to do it again.

I greatly appreciate your assistance. Your appreciation is highly valued. It is, in fact, number 10 in the image. I have thoroughly utilised eBay for the past few hours. Null I have not observed it numerous times already. The majority are located abroad and exorbitantly priced. Some are rational yet categorised as left rather than right. Notwithstanding the images and explanation explicitly indicating a right. It is equally likely what may occur. All mails I dispatched this week (inside the UK) have been disregarded. Only one individual responded, and while it appeared to bear the same casting number. The part number differs from mine. It was intended for an SLK, however. Although utilised across a diverse range of automobiles. It appears that there are several numbers as well. Although it is the identical component. It has astonished me! I have concluded that I can tolerate no more. I will purchase one. If it is suitable, excellent. 👍 If it fails, the junk dealer will be pleased, and I will purchase another. Until one takes action 😂 The condition is not a concern. Since both the bearing and the bush are being changed anyway. Thank you once again for your assistance. Your appreciation is genuinely acknowledged.

The issue does not pertain to the part number. The part number consists of 10 or 11 digits. I encountered a thread (not related to Mercedes) posing the same inquiry, and the sole pertinent reply received was, "those figures likely originate from the specific casting or production batch that manufactured those knuckles." Thus, there is no conclusive response, although it is logical. This leads me to my initial inquiry. Is it possible to use any knuckle from different models such as w203, w209, c209, and r171, provided it is compatible with M10 bolts? Thank you for the link. I will examine it. I seek to verify my part number, however I am uncertain of its utility, to be honest.

Affirmative, my friend. I cannot locate any information regarding compatible knuckles. Or the purpose of that code.

Upon reviewing several discussions. I recognise that there are numerous genuine technical experts on Mercedes present here. That possesses comprehensive knowledge if it features a star on the grille. Does anyone understand the meaning of a203 04 05? Since it is not a part number, I presume Mercedes did not include it only for aesthetic purposes.

Located adjacent to the parking brake cable.

The thread for the brake calliper in my offside rear knuckle is damaged. I have been attempting to get an additional knuckle on eBay, but I am uncertain which one is compatible with my vehicle. The knuckle does not seem to have a part number. Aside from A203 04 05 The nearside is A203 05 05. I have located one from an R171 SLK that seems to be labelled A203 04 05. The 04 is ambiguous, although that is its apparent appearance. I have contacted the vendor to verify that it is a 04 in the centre, but they just provided me with the part number A2033501408, which is uninformative to me. I dispatched a second message accompanied by an image of the number in question and promptly recognised that I was communicating with an individual seated at a desk and unable to verify the information. The vehicle is a 2006 A209 equipped with the AMG sports package. The brakes are worn, and the bolts seem to be 10mm. According to my observations online, some callipers utilise 10mm bolts while others employ 12mm bolts. I presume that I cannot simply apply any knuckle. My inquiry is if I must align it with the one designated a203 04 05, or if any variant will suffice. Provided the bolts measure 10mm?

It will likely enhance the accuracy of your speedometer, since they often underreport from the factory. The clearance of the front wheel arch liners at full lock is my primary worry.

Thank you, everyone! I was not informed that I need one, nor was there any endorsement for it. I presume everything is OK; I was enquiring to ensure there is not an issue that may unexpectedly arise.

This morning, my BMW X5 40i was taken in the UK. Intruders entered my home, searched, and located my key, which was stored in an anti-theft wallet. I do not believe the car is equipped with a dedicated tracker; however, it was outfitted with technology upon purchase. It includes a Thatcham 1 Alarm System with Remote Control and Engine Immobiliser, a M Sport Pro Package, a Technology Package, and the BMW app, which, while not a tracker, provides real-time location updates and features 360-degree cameras. Despite my explicit decision not to install a tracker on the insurance vehicle, my inquiry is whether my insurance necessitates the use of a tracker, given that my policy lacks an endorsement mandating it and the insurer has not requested one. The terms explicitly state: You will not be covered if Your vehicle was either unlocked or a window or sunroof was ajar. Your keys were left in or on your vehicle. Your vehicle lacks a functional security or tracking system. Thank you for any comments!

Greetings to everyone I am now seeking my first Audi R8 in the UK. I have just sold my 2011 Lotus Evora S and am seeking a Gen 1 facelift R8 V10 or V10 Plus. I have conducted extensive study and am now prepared to proceed; nevertheless, I have a possible concern with ground clearance. I have a significant elevation at the entrance of my garage, and I am concerned about the front nose or splitter making contact. Is there anybody who can ascertain or measure the approach angle for a Gen 1 V10? What is the difference in approach angle between the V10 Plus, which is somewhat lower and has a more aggressive splitter? Here is a schematic I created upon purchasing my Evora. I have measured the garage's approach angle to be around 9.5 degrees. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thank you

I concur. For a brief while, I anticipated some images...

I own a 2020 Excel and only use Android Auto with the AAwireless adaptor, encountering no troubles. For your information, Toyota is providing a complimentary tracker. I have recently updated my insurance, which was £690 with Quotemehappy, and is now via Go.Compare IM with AA £335 and a TopCashback rebate of £42.