MutanX

It is possible that the cessation of the regeneration process caused an increase in pressure, leading to the sensor being melted.

Could the replacement of the swirl valves have also caused the issue?

We just acquired our 2011 X5 40d M Sport only two days ago, and we have noticed that there is an intermittent engine light that appears and disappears. There seems to be an air/vacuum leak during acceleration, resulting in a little decrease in power. The pipe seems to be the source of the problem. Do you have any suggestions as to its identity or if it should be connected?

My issue has been fixed, therefore I am posting again. Perhaps what I have to share may be beneficial to someone. I hope it is. It is crucial, in my opinion, to have a qualified automotive electrician using a genuine Mercedes STAR diagnostic system examine the automobile. When you engage in this activity, several revelations will become apparent. Upon inspecting my automobile, it became evident that there was a problem with the Overhead Control Panel (OCP), which is placed on the windscreen and houses the inside lighting. The Star system indicated that the sensor N70b1, which is responsible for measuring the temperature inside the vehicle, was providing a result that is not believable or logical. I infer that this indicates exceeding the established boundaries, namely a temperature of 65 degrees Celsius. According to reports, this had the consequence of significantly reducing the speed of CANBUS communications to a minimal level. It seems that this CANBUS problem was the root cause of all the other difficulties that occurred, and I can confirm that there were other issues. According to my expert, the communication system in the car becomes heavily congested, causing the CANBUS system to be unable to transmit any messages. As a result, error messages start to appear and various components may begin to malfunction, such as the Comand system turning off or the headlamps flashing, in extreme cases. The system experiences an excessive amount of stress or strain. A single remedy resolved the issue entirely - the substitution of the OCP. I purchased a pre-owned item from eBay and successfully handled any problems associated with it. (I previously said that the issue was repaired, but I am now experiencing a "light sensor" error. This error might be due to either a defective sensor or a poor connection. However, this error is the only problem I am currently seeing.) The key lesson I learned is to seek guidance from someone who is proficient in using the STAR system.

I appreciate the further recommendations. I hope that I am not egregiously violating forum standards or decorum here, however I stumbled over this post and found that it closely aligns with my own experience.

I will provide an objective update, since I am optimistic that someone with more intelligence than myself will be able to discern the logical reasoning behind it. Regrettably, the newly acquired AGM battery failed to provide the expected results. I have just acquired a new Consumer/ Systems battery and a relatively new starting battery, both of which are completely charged. Despite this, I am still able to see the whole dashboard display. As anticipated, I have been diligently searching in every possible location for recommendations. I discovered an unconventional method that entails squirting contact cleaner into the ignition keyhole in the evening, and then using a hair dryer to blow air into the key slot the following morning. Indeed, I too found it irrational - particularly the suggestion of using contact cleaning. However, in my state of desperation, I pondered if the concept of warm air had any logical foundation. The next day, I positioned a fan heater on the driver's seat and directed its airflow towards the bottom section of the dashboard, specifically targeting the region where the ignition key is situated. I left the heater running for almost two hours. The day was characterised by low temperatures and very low humidity. Subsequently, I drove the vehicle for more than thirty minutes without experiencing any problems whatsoever, despite the fact that the dashboard typically activates within five minutes of starting a drive. On the next day, I had to go on a journey that was characterised by a more temperate climate and precipitation. Shortly after starting the automobile, the dashboard once again exhibited erratic behaviour. I have examined this matter - was the fan heater technique only a coincidence? If the answer is negative, what is the significance? This morning, the weather was very chilly and dry. In order to replicate the experiment, I used the fan heater. I have just returned from a drive that lasted over forty minutes, during which the dashboard of my vehicle functioned well. There seems to be a correlation between the activation of warm or hot air on the dashboard prior to starting the automobile and the occurrence of erratic flashing lights. However, what is the underlying cause behind it? Indeed, I am aware that it may seem irrational, but I am very certain that I could replicate it consistently with same outcomes. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts?

I had the defects resolved by my local independent Mercedes-Benz expert, who also suspects that the battery may be the cause. I have just installed a new high-quality AGM service battery. Its performance will soon be put to the test. Thank you for the feedback received so far.

The vehicle is often parked outside on the driveway and is hardly used, usually just for short trips, around 2 to 3 times each week.

There is a new malfunction in my 2006 SL350. The dashboard sometimes becomes erratic, displaying a multitude of warning warnings. Malfunction in the restraint system The SRS system sometimes experiences a temporary loss of functionality, causing the rev counter, speedometer, and fuel gauge to drop to zero before returning to normal operation. Spotlights flicker and headlights illuminate. Indicators of a roll over bar issue, battery issue and the need to see a workshop. The command becomes uncontrollable. Heater controls are modified. There seems to be a significant amount of historical discussion on these forums on the issue at hand, which is related to the census. If I understand correctly, the consensus is that the problem lies with a defective Electronic Ignition Module (EIS or EIM?). Is that view still prevailing? Is there anybody who can provide further information to this? If I switch the EIS / EIM, do I need to alter the keys, or is the identification process managed in a different way? Thank you.

Has the recall been completed? Also, please verify whether there is a power outage on the 2-pin plug.

The location of the item is on the passenger side, specifically behind the glovebox.

I prefer purchasing a used BMW rather than opting for aftermarket modifications. Prioritise inspecting the wiring for any signs of burn marks on the plug. Begin by removing the panel located behind the glovebox to get access to the blower motor. The FSR, also known as the force-sensing resistor, is the component that is identifiable by its white colour and wire connectors.

The blower motor may be easily removed from the passenger footwell, which is the only method to reach the electrical connection.

First, examine the wiring and plug of the FSR located on the blower motor. They have a tendency to get exhausted, prompting a recall.

I would do a pressure test to see whether it is able to withstand the pressure. Another possible cause I have seen is a malfunctioning reservoir cover or a fracture in the threaded section of the reservoir. It is advisable to inspect these components as potential sources of coolant leakage.

Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate it.

If you do an online search for substandard gasoline obtained from petrol stations, you will come across a plethora of news articles on the subject. It occurs. I refuelled my compact Doblo van at a nearby Sainsbury's location and the performance of the van was really unsatisfactory. The performance was awful, with a lacklustre start and overall poor execution. Replenished with my customary Jet and restored to its original condition. The local Morrisons store also received several complaints.

Hopefully just low-quality gasoline. Many people refuel their vehicles with BP petrol and also use a fuel additive to improve its cleanliness. Exert a significant effort.

Have you recently refuelled? One potential solution is to do a reset by disconnecting the battery for a duration of 10 minutes, and then attempting to use the device again. Perhaps adding a gasoline system cleaning to the tank might be beneficial.I use a disinfectant periodically to maintain cleanliness on the injection site.I am certain that they perform effectively. If there is no email attached to it, fortunately it does not contain anything malicious that may result in a significant financial burden.

Those are reliable and substantial data points. Thank you for sharing it and confirming my convictions. However, I advise you, OP, not to worry excessively and choose a vehicle that you really like. Nevertheless, it is crucial to ensure that the pre-purchase inspection (PPI) thoroughly examines the subframe for any potential damage resulting from an unreported accident.

I have been an active member of this site for a considerable duration, and I have noticed that the most often discussed topics are on shocks, wheel upgrades, exhaust modifications, and travel or work anecdotes. In my opinion, the level of drama connected with the pre-2011 subframe is overstated. Over the last several years, I have had a 2008 model. Due to the negative reputation associated with it, I have sometimes removed the liners from the front trunk (frunk) to inspect for any cracks, especially after encountering significant potholes. One may expect to see several discussions about insurance companies declaring an Audi R8 as a complete loss due to a subframe crack, yet such conversations are surprisingly rare. When it comes to history, always choose the version that is accurate and free from any distortions or biases. It is advisable to avoid purchasing rebuilt automobiles unless you have knowledge of their history and are aware of the specific repairs that have been carried out on them. This is because there may be hidden faults inside the car that are not easily discernible. Greater transparency from the vendor is undoubtedly advantageous for you.

There are ongoing debates over Ctek and similar products. The battery in question is a lead acid battery, as shown by the Pb tag on it. Therefore, it does not need a product specifically designed for AGM batteries. Although CTEK devices will automatically reset after a power outage, they are priced at £45 and upwards. On the other hand, the Lidl device is priced at £15, but it may stop functioning after 3 years and does not have the ability to reset itself after a power loss. I own an elegant one that dates back to two decades, which remains functional. However, the Lidl variant has been affixed to my SLK for a duration of three years and continues to fulfil its purpose, with no issues encountered so far.

NotePapa, it is a lead acid battery. I have been using a conditioner attached to this kind of cell in my 968 coupe, then 968 cab, and now SLK for a significant number of years. In the 968's, I was able to directly connect the battery in the trunk and close the lid over the small cable without any issues. However, I cannot do the same in the SLK. Nevertheless, when the SLK is in the garage, I connect my £15 conditioner (from Lidl!) to the emergency positive terminal under the bonnet on the offside, and the negative terminal to one of the suspension top mount nuts. This setup works perfectly, allowing the car to be left unused for months without any starting problems. Additionally, based on my experience, I have found that keeping a battery on a conditioner significantly improves its lifespan. In fact, the battery in my 968 coupe was still going strong even after being over 10 years old when I sold the car.

I would much appreciate hearing opinions on the comparison between the 2008 V8 gated and the 2015 V8 gated, both of which have less than 20,000 miles. Which would provide higher value and resale potential in the future: a 2008 model with a facelift or a 2015 model, both from the United States?

I will disagree. A V8 with an accident on Carfax is priced at a substantial $65,000. The majority of prospective customers are unlikely to consider purchasing a vehicle unless it is a long-term investment.