Grundysp

It seems to be an opportune moment to progress. It seems that the automobile has been neglected, and unless you are capable of doing the repairs yourself, it would not be financially viable to spend money on fixing it. What alternative would you purchase, though? 🙂

As previously mentioned, the component number obtained from realoem corresponds to a brake calliper specifically designed for a 633csi model. The brake callipers installed are not the regular e24 brake callipers. Therefore, the component number, which only refers to the seal kit and not the actual piston, is not helpful to me since these callipers are not the original e24 callipers.

What is the utility of RealOEM if it does not provide a part number? Furthermore, realoem does not provide information on the sizes of calliper pistons. As I said before, the callipers I have are not the standard e24 callipers. Therefore, realoem does not provide any useful braking diagrams for them.

Hello everyone, I am reaching out from the bigcoupe community in a last attempt to get assistance in identifying these brake callipers. They can be directly mounted into my 1983 633 csi, but they are certainly not the original callipers, since the size of the pistons is different. Interestingly, the brake callipers used in the e28 model have identical component numbers. I am currently in the process of rebuilding the callipers for my restoration project. Unfortunately, I mistakenly discarded the old calliper pistons and the new ones I purchased do not fit properly due to their larger size. I have searched online for suitable replacements specifically designed for the 633 model, but all the options available are also too big. I am aware that I should not have disposed of the old parts, as I usually do not make such errors, but this was an accidental oversight on my part. The calliper does not have a specific component number. It is just labelled as "BMW 57/25" on one side and "BMW ATE" on the other. The only information I discovered online pertained to the e46s, maybe. However, all of those options have a larger or the same calliper bore size. I am certain that I cannot use a 57mm piston if my bore size is also 57mm, since there has to be some clearance. The bore measurement indicates an internal diameter (ID) of 57mm. Therefore, would it be correct to assume that I need pistons with a diameter of 56mm? Which specific BMW calliper is compatible with my e24 and can be easily installed? The primary enigma that stumped everyone was the e24 gang. I am now facing a challenge in the restoration process as I am unable to determine the appropriate size of pistons required. Furthermore, I am reluctant to get alternative callipers, since I have already invested effort in preparing and painting them meticulously, and have also obtained new seal kits and related components. Currently, I am quite intrigued in the potential dimensions of these objects. If anybody has any suggestions, please inform me. I reached out to ATE, but they were unable to assist. I also contacted other brake supplier businesses, all of whom confirmed that higher size pistons are required for the standard e24 (and e28) brakes.

However, does the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve just open under cold conditions? Will this not have any impact on the MOT?

The reason why 7th gear is not included is because it is equivalent to the "D" gear. To engage a gear higher than 6, just shift the gearbox into the "Drive" mode, and it will automatically switch to the 7th gear, provided that the engine's revolutions per minute are appropriate. It is important for you to comprehend that this is not a gearbox that operates automatically with the option for human control. Instead, it is equipped with an automated gearbox that has the capability to restrict the highest gear, such as while descending a slope. When selecting 6th gear, the automobile may not remain exclusively in 6th gear, but it will not shift to a higher gear. There is no option to restrict the gearbox from shifting beyond the 7th gear, due to clear and logical reasons.

The rationale for their decision to include Wi-Fi into Mazdas was just that. They might implement an entertainment update, among other features, to eliminate the need for you to physically visit a dealership for assistance. I have also encountered it elsewhere, but I cannot recall the source. I will do a search......

Has anybody else seen the absence of their Energy Flow Monitor? It is uncertain if Mazda has implemented an update to my vehicle, since the infotainment system no longer provides the option to see it.

I recommend following MutanX's advise and refraining from visiting the BMW for inspection.You will incur a substantial expense, and it is unlikely that they will identify the underlying reason.If they do, they may impose additional fees of 2-3 items. Identify a proficient expert, search for one on Google if you are unfamiliar, and document each stage of the process on this platform. Could you kindly provide a video pertaining to the topic of noise?

I have engaged in a conversation with an independent individual who was unable to provide guidance on the process. Consequently, I intend to attend a service in a few weeks if I am unable to resolve the issue.

Indeed, my first search yielded no results.

I have attempted to adjust the level while driving, anticipating instructions, and have also pressed and held the mute button. However, these attempts have been unsuccessful. I would really appreciate any suggestions you may have.

I attempted to use the mute button, but regrettably, it would not function on my device, thereby rendering me unable to access any of the system menus.

Thank you.

I am unfamiliar with this button, but I will verify it later today. Thank you.

Greetings, I am uncertain about the specific system that is already in place. I will examine it this morning. However, the books that were sent with the automobile are intended for the Audio 20 system.

Greetings, I just purchased a 2012 C180 vehicle. One notable feature is that the SatNav volume is muted, indicated by a red cross on the speaker shown on the screen. I am unable to determine the method to unmute it. I have attempted to modify the volume, but have been unable. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

That is feasible I have seen it do such behaviour before. BMW vehicles may exhibit several issues when a single component malfunctions.

Simply reset the trouble code after the replacement component has been installed.

After briefly test driving the vehicle, I noticed a rattling noise emanating from the back section (presumably the rear) while encountering bumps, accompanied by a faint humming sound.

I own a 2010 C350 CDI. A moment ago, I backed out of my driveway, and when I attempted to go forward after shifting into 'drive', there was a loud and forceful explosion. My first impression was that a tree limb had fallen onto the roof. I stepped out to examine the situation, but there was no evident evidence. Subsequently, I entertained the possibility that it may have been a tyre experiencing a sudden burst of air, but that hypothesis was also proven false. There were no dashboard or caution lights illuminated. I opted to drive the automobile on the road to see whether any indications or alerts were triggered, but there were no signs of any issues. I halted my movement after traversing a distance of about one mile, and proceeded to manoeuvre my vehicle in a backward direction into a designated space for parking. When I shifted into reverse, I had to apply some pressure to the accelerator, causing the vehicle to make a sudden movement and emit a sound like that of a stuck object. I repeated this action many times and encountered the same outcome once more. Upon disembarking from the car, I detected a distinct smell of combustion, maybe emanating from burning rubber, which I had not before experienced. Upon returning home, I noticed that the lingering odour of burning was still present. Nevertheless, I was able to shift into reverse gear effortlessly once again. Can anybody provide guidance on what could have occurred? Thank you very much

I would certainly allocate that driveway space!

Reaches 14.7-14.8V while the engine is operating

Thank you, that may be the issue since the drains were plugged some time ago. The problem occurred at least twice with a heated engine when the automobile was exposed to water: once after washing the car with a jet wash and once after a lengthy drive in the rain. It's frustrating because none of the garages, even Mercedes-Benz ones, inspect or clean the drains. I had to accept that I need to undertake this task on my own. If the ECU is broken, will increasing the voltage still assist in starting the vehicle and resolving the errors? This morning, when I attempted to start the automobile, the same problems appeared. I used another battery, a 3-year-old authentic MB battery that I had just replaced with a brand new one, to lift the vehicle up. This action caused all errors to vanish, and the car started immediately. Is my battery voltage within the standard range? A new 95Ah AGM Varta battery, with a slightly larger capacity than the original Mercedes-Benz battery, was fitted fully charged at 12.7V. After driving for 3 hours on the highway, the following morning the battery voltage was only displaying 12.2-12.3V. When I turn the key twice to start all consumers (air compression, pre-ignition light stuff), the voltage lowers by 0.5V to below 12V right before I start turning up the engine. I would much appreciate any advice for a reputable independent garage in London