Grundysp

What is the car's manufacturing year? Those seem to be the tail lights from the 2010 model. If the automobile is not a 2010, it is possible that this might contribute to your problem. I installed 2010 lights on the rear of my 2005 rover, which resulted in abnormal behaviour. I suspect that there may have been a need to rearrange some pins during the installation process. However, I cannot confirm this with certainty. If such rearrangement was necessary, it may have resulted in abnormal flashing occurrences whenever the brakes were used, as well as sporadic bulb failures. I installed many modules and connected them, and they have been quite reliable ever since. If the automobile is intended to have such lights, then I would begin by inspecting the wiring. Is there a tow package installed? When I connected the relay for my tow package, the lights, if I recall properly, exhibited a similar behaviour. However, I am unable to guarantee with certainty. Have you discovered any codes pertaining to anything other than short circuit? A short circuit often refers to a situation when an electrical connection is disrupted due to a short circuit, sometimes caused by corrosion or a wire coming into contact with another wire or surface. To address this issue, it is advisable to examine the connections and wiring at the tail lights, specifically looking for signs of corrosion or any wires that may be contacting each other.

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The tyres mentioned are the Goodyear Eagle ASY6 and the Continental Sport Contact 7.The Michelin PS5 and Uniroyal Rainsport are both fantastic tyre options that I would explore.The sidewall is rather pliable.now, I am using Conti 7 tyres on my M4 vehicle, and they are really remarkable. I managed to get a favourable arrangement for a pair of Michelin PS5 tyres, which are now stored in my shed, awaiting the completion of my Conti tyres. This transition should occur shortly.

The vehicle was equipped with a Miltek sports catalytic converter when I bought it. I will shortly do a wet compression test to get accurate data. The head has undergone a full replacement and all seals have been replaced.

I appreciate the responses. I would like to inform you that the valve stem oil seals were recently replaced with authentic micro seals, along with the installation of new valves, less than a week ago. The chain has accumulated less than 500 miles since it was last replaced one year ago. Fortunately, I replaced all of the turbo oil feeds when I installed the new turbo less than a year ago. Essentially, all the necessary replacements have been made, with the exception of the piston rings. Fortunately, it is not using any coolant.

In addition, the smoke emitted from the vehicle appears blue while accelerating from a stationary position, but returns to normal during regular drive.

I would like to note that the rocker cover was recently changed with an authentic small cover in order to exclude the possibility of a faulty PCV in the cover. However, this replacement did not provide any improvement.

I am engaged in the task of removing graffiti, and the image in question depicts one of the properties I was tasked with cleaning.

Greetings to all members of our community. I am seeking assistance for the problem I am now experiencing. Previously, I had issues with burning oil while accelerating from (A) traffic signals and (B) after descending a slope and then accelerating again. This occurrence was more frequent after the automobile had been in operation for an extended period of time. I have just had my automobile examined by a local mechanic, and they determined that the issue lies with the valve stem oil seals, which have become worn. After procrastinating for a year owing to the expense and complexity of the task, I finally replaced the valve seals and valves, as well as installed a reconditioned head. All other seals were modified correspondingly to ensure certainty. I am experiencing a little emission of oil while accelerating from traffic lights, but not at the first startup. The turbo was replaced 500 miles ago with a brand new turbo. I have installed a catch can on the CCV (Crankcase Ventilation) system, but I have not installed one on the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system. The automobile operates flawlessly, devoid of any malfunctions or error codes, and accelerates as expected, with the exception of the smoke, of course. I conducted a compression test (without any lubrication) and obtained pressure readings of 140, 135, 140, and 135 pounds per square inch (PSI) throughout the cylinders. The automobile has accumulated a mileage of 142,000 kilometres and has received diligent maintenance and care from its previous owners. I will clean the intercooler to remove any remaining oil. Uncertain about any other details I could have overlooked? I am seeking guidance to resolve this problem. Some individuals have suggested that I only need to operate the vehicle in order to eliminate any remaining oil in the exhaust or turbo before replacing the cylinder head. Apologies for the lengthy explanation, but I believe that providing more detail would enhance the quality of the content. I appreciate any assistance and guidance you can provide me with in advance. Sincerely.

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In order to address this problem, it is necessary to resolve the issue that is preventing regeneration. Once the issue is resolved and any errors are cleared, it is advisable to drive the vehicle at a consistent speed of 60-70 mph to determine whether regeneration will occur.

No, they are not connected to that job unless the problem with the flaps, which were not completed, caused the regeneration process to cease and resulted in the clogging of the DPF.

The exhaust pressure sensor pipe is the component where the rubber pipe should be attached. The sensor itself is a square object with three screws, and it seems to have melted at the location where the rubber pipe should be connected. I believe the DPF is obstructed, resulting in elevated exhaust pressure and the expulsion of excessive hot gas via the rubber hose.

Given the substantial amount of rainfall, it would be advisable to entirely deactivate the windscreen wipers. Water will create a mostly even layer on the windscreen.

I own a previous generation S320 CDI with about 167,000 km on the odometer, and it achieves around 40 miles per gallon on the highway. Therefore, I anticipate that yours will surpass that. Nevertheless, my 2008 ML 320, which has a similar weight and engine, although a box-shaped vehicle with four-wheel drive, has difficulties in achieving a fuel efficiency of 28-29 miles per gallon on the motorway. This suggests that the four-wheel drive system may have a negative impact on fuel consumption.

Remember to replace the brake fluid every 2 years.

I am potentially OK since it seems that Discount Tyre has the requisite cloning capabilities to duplicate my existing ones. Expecting a flawless experience, as advertised.

To clarify, do you now own a completely new set of wheels equipped with new TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System), while still retaining your previous set of wheels with the original sensors? Who performed the installation, which brand of TPMS was used, and were they cloned?

That was the subsequent option to investigate... Thank you.

Upon discovering a set of original equipment manufacturer (OEM) silver 19-inch wheels for my silver 2010 vehicle, I assumed it would be a simple task to acquire OE TPMS sensors for the new tyres I plan to install on this set. This would allow me to easily switch between the gunmetal wheels I currently have and the silver set, providing a varied appearance from time to time. However, as I began researching the appropriate sensors to purchase, I came across the following information - The Audi R8 was available as a coupe or spyder model from 2008 to 2010.Please be aware that the process of relearning the TPMS on this particular model can only be performed at an authorised dealership. Upon contacting the dealership, I was informed that the cost for reprogramming them amounts to $500.I am confused by your statement. Could you perhaps clarify? Is this statement accurate, or is there a more efficient alternative to acquiring new TPMS sensors without going through the dealership? I would want to be able to effortlessly interchange wheel and tyre sets, ensuring that both sets function seamlessly each time they are swapped.

The contract requires a minimum of 2 services, meaning that even if you cancel immediately before the next service, you will still be obligated for somewhat more than a year. However, if you sell the automobile before using all the services, they will reimburse you for the price difference.

Excellent news. The M274 engine in your automobile is known to have a high likelihood of thermostats failing prematurely. While independent mechanics may provide lower prices compared to dealerships, you should still expect to pay about £300 for the replacement. It was a wise decision to get it completed during the warranty period. Do you provide the Mercedes-Benz Service Care Plan for service expenses coverage as well?

If your engine is not experiencing misfiring or overheating, it is likely that you have a coolant leak. Over time, some coolant pipes may become fragile and develop cracks, leading to potential leaks. There is a possibility that the water pump is also experiencing a leakage. If coolant is entering the engine, it would result in the presence of a mixture like a milkshake in either the oil or the coolant reservoir. If the coolant were being consumed in the combustion chamber, there would be a noticeable emission of white smoke out the tailpipe after the exhaust system had reached a high temperature, like the output of a smoke machine.

Highly worthwhile - I maintained almost all original equipment manufacturer components (with the exception of the V8 FSI emblem, which is from Audi but not specifically from a R8 model). The OEM product exhibits the correct alignment of the weave, resulting in a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. Everything is from R8Stuff, of course 😃

Hello everyone, I kindly want your assistance and guidance. Yesterday, my car's OS/R bumper was damaged due to a collision. I personally saw the occurrence and possess visual documentation (thankfully)! Contrary to my first belief that the damage was quite superficial, there is, in fact, a substantial break in the bumper. Today, I entered my car to rearrange them on the driveway and noticed a distinct banging or clunking noise coming from the front of the vehicle, particularly when I turn the steering wheel. This was not evident prior to her being struck. My automobile was parked on my driveway and was not moving when it was struck. The car was in neutral gear, the handbrake was engaged, and the doors were locked. There was no one inside the car at the time of the incident. Upon reviewing the camera clip, I can clearly see her being forcefully pushed around half to a full foot as a result of the collision. My inquiry is to whether this issue might have caused damage to other components, resulting in the noise from the front end. I am now hesitant about driving my vehicle to the repair/assessment site as requested by my insurance company.