CleverPixel

The E bolt heads may be unforgiving if the socket is not perfectly aligned. The socket may be positioned at an angle with a hex head bolt, however these E heads are not capable of withstanding such positioning and will become rounded. While I acknowledge that others may have differing opinions, I personally find the design to be quite unsatisfactory. If the socket angles were not suitable, the Spanish individual may have attempted to remove the starter quickly and as a result, ended up rounding the head. I envision that he is thoroughly examining his lexicon of profanities. 🙈

Bolts for the starter motor. Was that the highest one? I would think it's simple to approximate the measurements if you are not directly facing it. When the edges are smoothed, it becomes rather difficult and frustrating to remove them. I personally experienced this challenge when I had to separate the parts of a gearbox I obtained from a vehicle that was involved in an accident.

He may have stripped the E bolts, which would make it difficult to remove them.

Please inform us of their response. If you plan on keeping the automobile for a long time, it might be wise to invest in a fault code reader. This device will quickly prove its worth by saving you money on dealer fees for scanning the car.

This morning, I supplemented my fuel tank with an additional 4.5 litres of super unleaded petrol. Prior to starting the vehicle, the battery displayed a voltage reading of 12.54V. Upon the car's ignition, I proceeded to inspect the battery and saw a voltage reading of 14.4 volts. Suspecting a gasoline shortage, I proceeded to remove debris from the vehicle. However, after around 5 minutes of idling, the car abruptly halted and refuses to start again, similar to what happened yesterday. The dashboard displayed a red battery indicator, indicating the need to bring the automobile to a repair. As a result, the yellow engine light has illuminated. Does this imply that the problem is associated with the battery? If so, I can get a new one for £130 and have it installed at home, along with doing a reset. Just to inform you, when the battery was last changed 4 years ago, it seems that the vehicle was not reset or programmed to the new battery. Could this be relevant to the current issue? Thank you.

I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I suspected that the issue may be related to the gasoline, considering that the fuel indicator was on when I first started the vehicle yesterday. Upon reflection, it is likely that the car was operating on a very low amount of fuel yesterday before it abruptly stopped. Today, I added 4.5 units of super unleaded fuel to it using a jerry can. The vehicle was activated, prompting me to cautiously manoeuvre it in both forward and reverse directions on the driveway in order to assess the functionality of the brakes and other components. I traversed a distance of around 2 metres in a back-and-forth motion before the device abruptly ceased functioning and failed to restart. I physically disengaged the shift lock to move the automobile into neutral, allowing me to push it back into its original position. Do you believe it is worthwhile to add an additional four half litres of fuel to the vehicle tomorrow and make another try to start it? Thank you.

Here is a video showing the car's attempt to start, in case it is beneficial: https://www.kapwing.com/videos/64721336668b2a01f064eb50

Greetings, forum members, I am seeking assistance and hope that someone can provide it. I am attempting to restore a 2004 CLK 320 Petrol vehicle that has been inactive for about one year. Approximately four years ago, I had a fresh battery installed in my vehicle. I used to drive it once a week, but regrettably, I have not taken care of it since last year. The Yuasa 9000 battery has been completely discharged and is assumed to be non-functional. I attempted to restore its functionality using an AA Intelligent charger in recovery mode. Surprisingly, the charger managed to fully recharge the battery within a few days. After reattaching the battery to the vehicle, I saw many erratic lights flashing and the dashboard clock malfunctioning. However, I successfully managed to start the car and restore the window settings. Nevertheless, after around 5 minutes of idling, the automobile abruptly ceased functioning. Upon attempting to start the automobile once more, I encountered a persistent noise as the engine made repeated attempts to ignite, lasting around 4-5 seconds. However, the engine failed to fully engage and subsequently shut off again. The battery's initial voltage was around 12.6V, and when the engine began for the first time, the voltage increased to 13.6V while the engine was running. Does it seem that the battery is still defective, even after it has been 'recovered' during charging? I am open to replacing the battery and proceeding with a comprehensive service and MOT to get the vehicle back on the road. However, I would want confirmation from someone that the issue is most likely due to a faulty battery and not any other potentially malicious cause. Thank you in advance

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263291658640?itmmeta=01HWZ95E63H1NCM9FPQF9KJVXV&hash=item3d4d67e190:g:CnoAAOSwQcJZ-eHS&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0GEqH4PqA2CriTtXyEaIoT27LPsTfsUXPbzY9y3rjWSuYrwAQVRUO3/mqOuwbzX9YbMZOm26jwPoYyEaDXTZyOXwGfjzOGht0bki/XBQ4Gb5wsxvraf0KqjvKAs9b/2wUGwTq4D+RUGMf0YOZlsp4/5ZaWl5i6tJkfPIXBqh166qA+CVvwDK7BVtU3CTK40UURcPO5AJd6oOlnYyAfGM+QXJOFB+mNb8aQPD8eK6CWL8KbxMigB7gPmHyibk49qA0oilF/85Ifyk/RnjcwgcVu0=|tkp:Bk9SR5LjlennYw&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xec2a2ec1b65ff50420633a1955b5c69b

The lid cannot be closed while there is any object inserted into the cigarette socket. If you possess manual dexterity, you have the option to purchase a 12v socket with attached wires from eBay. This socket may be connected either behind the dashboard or further back in the tray, allowing sufficient room for wiring and ensuring that the lid can be closed properly. I performed this task to install the wiring for my dashboard camera.

EBay ?

Unfortunate news. I hope the individual who collided with you had insurance that you may pursue for compensation. Contact their insurance provider and request a flatbed tow truck for transportation. You will not be required to bear any of that expense. In addition, I would bring it to an authorised dealer. Implementing a maximum bidding cost ensures that all participants act with integrity. Wishing you the utmost success.

No, the frame is not worth it. The danger of mental fixation on a problem is occupying your mind without any cost or effort.

Consider bringing the aftermarket caliper/piston to a BMW dealership...

It would have been better to suggest avoiding difficulties by obtaining appropriate components.

Have you attempted to explore this location...https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=5274-USA-06-1983-E24-BMW-633CSi&diagId=34_0451 Take a tour or test drive an automatic vehicle (I selected a manual gearbox).

A price of $65k is seen excessive for a gated vehicle with 36,000 kilometres, particularly if the inside contains carbon fibre, on the assumption that the single accident is well recognised and involves a straightforward repair, such as repainting or replacing a bumper. If you are purchasing this as an investment, I concur with Dinkman's viewpoint that some prospective purchasers may have a strong aversion against any occurrence of accidents. Nevertheless, I was delighted to get a gated R8 V8 (equipped with carbon) for a sum of $73,000, with a mileage of 48,000 miles. In my perspective, this transaction can be deemed satisfactory, if not exceptional. Therefore, a price of $65k for a reduced mileage, albeit with the possibility of a small accident, is seen favourable.

Is there anybody else?

The hotel has been reserved.

As you have seen, this may be attributed to several factors. In the long term, it is likely that locating an Indy with Star who has the necessary diagnostic skills will result in cost savings and alleviate emotional distress. The cost of parts is too high to rely on chance.

I will not only repeat the opinions of others. Some of it pertains to your search for features in the R8. I am indifferent towards the everyday driveability aspects. I like the car's exceptional drivability for everyday use, however it is not the primary reason for my ownership. I now own a high-performance V8 vehicle for everyday usage, which is about to be equipped with a new Fi exhaust system (a video documenting this upgrade will be shared shortly). However, the primary reason I have a deep affection for my R8 is the opportunity it affords me to proudly assert that it has the same powertrain as a Lamborghini. That fills me with a great sense of self-worth!

Mercedes does not offer the motor unit alone; it is only available as part of a breaker component. You can get a mid-section pipe from Mercedes that comes with the motor/actuator already installed, along with two clamps. The pipe at the factory is a single continuous piece extending from the back of the engine to the rear. However, replacement parts are not sold in this manner to prevent customers from purchasing unnecessary sections including the catalytic box and rear silencer box. Additionally, it could be more difficult to replace anything of that size. I will now search for the invoice with the component numbers. You purchased it from your nearby Mercedes dealership. Request to be connected to the spare parts department.

UPDATE: I ultimately chose to surrender and take my flap to Mercedes for assistance. They sent an estimate of £174 per hour including VAT for the diagnosis, and I felt compelled to accept. They both seemed puzzled. Ultimately, they determined that the replacement component I installed was defective. We waited a few days for a part from Germany, and then they installed it. Success, it worked! I had just experienced extreme misfortune when I got a defective new component. The total cost for this? £0. The item I bought from Mercedes comes with a 2-year guarantee for both parts and labour, regardless of who installs it. No diagnostic time was charged. The total cost, including VAT, was around £360 for the original components. In addition to the inconvenience, I was puzzled as to why the fix I had done did not work. Kudos to Mercedes, they handled the situation well.