CleverPixel

what is an air purifier? petrol filter? sluggish step? It's possible that any injector adjustment between -1 and 1 is problematic. In regard to one another, it is only a correction.

Verify that the new size complies with the vehicle's standards; ensure you enter your inputs first: https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

comparing new trye size to old https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

https://premiertiresandwheels.ca/pages/tire-size-guide?srsltid=AfmBOooRN5nmdN7zQUeT8NVjpVcELkk40D9GhJTJWVOuVUxpRRn6DAahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.wheel-size.com%2Fcalc%2F%3Fwheel1%3D225-35-19X8ET37&wheel2=225-50-17X7ET47&fcl=50mm&scl=50mm&wcl=30mm&sr=0mmT

What tire size is most suitable for a rim with a J width?

Determine the meaning of OE: https://www.wheel-size.com/size/

To assist with ET and tyre dimensions, experiment with these.

Affirmative, negative, uncertain. I have recently traversed this route, as the surrounding roads are in bad condition. The 19-inch rims result in a harsh ride, and the M-Sport specifications are prone to cracking, leading to air leaks and error codes. The tyre expert is correct in asserting that installing larger tyres on current rims disrupts telemetry and may affect insurance, suspension clearance, and other factors. Transitioning from run-flat tires (RFT) to conventional tires will yield a more supple ride. They are less expensive, more readily available, and repairable; however, it is prudent to seek a space-saver or an additional full-size rim for an onboard spare. RFT may perform adequately on smooth, clean roads, but becomes ineffective when driven on flat surfaces. In my experience, you can seal them if you identify the leak first, but not after they have been flattened and driven on. Yes, you may go for 16" tires, since they will offer the maximum sidewall height, providing greater rubber contact between the road and rim, resulting in a more comfortable ride. You will significantly notice the improvement in ride quality. While you may observe a reduction in handling, based on my experience, the existing speed restriction and the absence of a Nuremberg track nearby render this mostly unimportant, especially considering that vehicles once exceeded 200 km/h on that circuit with 60-70 sidewall tires. I replaced the staggered 19" run-flat M-Sport tires on my E93 with a $400 square set of 17" tires obtained from the wreckers. During my visit, I acquired a space saver from an E60, a compact scissor jack, and many normal wheel nuts to replace the locking nuts. I assumed that all BMWs utilise the same locking nut; nevertheless, the perpetrators may possess the key, making it still another trivial item to standardise in case of loss. My primary challenge was locating a pair of 17" rims that I favoured, which also had an appropriate offset (ET) compatible with the vehicle. The 5x120 bolt pattern is prevalent among most BMW models manufactured post-2005, I believe. Numerous individuals designate 18" as the optimal size; nevertheless, in my opinion, it only provided an additional 15mm of rubber in wall height. 16 inches; I had not encountered a set until the 17 inches were installed on the vehicle, but for a 1992 model, they may appear somewhat diminutive. It is fundamentally a matter of personal preference. I transitioned from 225/35/19 8J-et37 and 255/30/19 9J-et39 to 235/45/17 7.5J-et37; as all tires maintained the same rolling circumference, the vehicle remains unaffected.

That is a reasonable assertion; but, I wish to upgrade to a more rapid vehicle with a V8 engine. I have owned my 2007 650 for almost 14 years. It was inexpensive at the time of purchase and currently has just 60,000 miles. It requires £1,000 to £2,000 to repair engine and gearbox leaks. I may chose to undertake the repairs and retain the vehicle for an additional three years.

Locate a 2015 M6 with comparable mileage at a reduced price to economise.

The listed price is £19,990. To repair leaks, the cost ranges from £1,500 to £2,500. If the typical suspects are from an independent garage, is the cost up to £5,000? by BMW thief, but significantly more if it pertains to the head gasket. Concerns arise from two fractured rear coil springs, which may indicate exposure to harsh terrain or aggressive driving. I will provide the URL if permitted by the administrator.

I am astonished that damaged coils occur in vehicles with such low mileage; they typically manifest in older cars, those subjected to potholes, vehicles used on racetracks, or in extremely cold climates.

Hello, I am seeking to replace my 2007 650i with 60,000 miles. I have encountered a 2015 650i M Sport convertible with 28,000 miles online. Nonetheless, the MOT inspection history contains the following: 1. October 2020: FAIL: Offside rear coil spring damaged or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) October 2, 2025: FAILURE - Nearside Rear Coil Spring Fractured or Broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) AND Observe and rectify if required (recommendations): Oil leak, but not excessive Subsection 8.4.1 (a) (i) pertaining to the lower engine compartment The offside front lower suspension arm ball joint exhibits minor play (5.3.4 (a) (i)). The vehicle is located at a Citroen dealership. Do the coil springs on these F series vehicles fracture easily due to misuse? Additional concerns include the oil leak and the arm ball joint. Should I contemplate or disengage? Thank you

When searching for a vehicle, always use Vcheck. It has been often referenced here and costs just £10, making it the most comprehensive check available. A substantial discussion on this issue started some years ago, highlighting that this check identifies aspects often overlooked by others.

Thank you. I waited as the garage examined the leak, which lasted around 20 minutes. He said that he put Milton fluid through it, since I had noted that it also had an odor. I will promptly verify the dipstick. I received a text/email from BMW confirming my forthcoming appointment, which included an option to add 1 liter of oil and another item that I cannot recall, but I clicked 'no.'

My last vehicle often indicated low fluid levels, however this one has not done so in five months. Consequently, I was concerned that the sensor could be malfunctioning, prompting me to contemplate filling up the fluid as a precaution. I do not recall the garage's actions when little fluid was emitted from the jets, resulting in it just cascading down the floor. I have not yet received the bill. I must have replenished it when I believed it was empty, and the garage may have done so as well, although that has only occurred twice since February. I was unaware that there was a dipstick, since I had thought it was only a sensor. Are you asserting that it has both?

I have been examining the onboard computer to ascertain fluid levels, namely oil. I am experiencing an Auto Start/Stop problem, which I assume is caused by the Brake Vacuum Sensor. This prevents me from overcoming the mistake, thereby hindering my ability to navigate through the remaining content.When I long-press the BC button, it displays the error code, but that is the extent of my progress. I am certain that I successfully resolved the issue before, but I cannot recall the specific actions taken. However, I distinctly remember it indicating "Check Ok," implying that there were no problems. I believed I would still be able to verify everything. While viewing a YouTube video, the individual elevated the lever twice to see the Oil status. I will verify this tomorrow to see whether it allows me to proceed despite the current mistake. I have seen two distinct methods for accessing the checks: either by long-pressing the BC button or by use the up/down lever. Do you have any recommendations? I would want to verify the washer fluid level, which may require a physical inspection beneath the hood.The jets were obstructed shortly after the vehicle purchase, and I am uncertain if this was attributable to insufficient fluid leading to dirt infiltration, since I did not get any notification. Thank you

Does the vendor own any documented proof of the servicing history, since it is not consistently recorded in iDrive? I would, however, anticipate some BMW submissions from when the vehicle was practically new and under warranty. Consider enquiring with a dealer for any historical records in the system. If you cannot get any proof via invoices or by consulting a dealer, I would recommend seeking an other vehicle.

I have heard of service history vanishing from iDrive before, but it was attributed to someone using software to manipulate the past, if I recall correctly. Is it being sold by a private individual or a trader?

I have activated the camera on the desk using a USB-C cable, and it seems to be functioning well. Compact and tidy, it should be positioned behind the rearview mirror for optimal discretion. I want to conceal the lead below the edge of the headliner, along the A-pillar behind the door seal, and into the fuse box located at the rear of the glove compartment. The event is scheduled for this weekend, depending upon favourable weather conditions, for the juke.

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I just purchased a 4K GPS camera from Aliexpress for my wife's Juke.

I conducted my first test charge yesterday on my EV3 (GTS Midnight Black as well), and I can confirm that it performs well upon release from my possession. This is my second electric vehicle, and I am aware that there is a time constraint before the charging port relocks. I had a similar scenario with my first electric vehicle (eGolf) and practiced many times. I agree that it is preferable to refrain from activating the "Never Lock Cable." My one complaint is that it is necessary to open the bottom flap to charge the AC, which might allow water to enter if left overnight. In my eGolf, this is unnecessary for AC charging and is rather logical; while they have likely accommodated for this, it remains illogical. My charger is a Zappi. My locking and unlocking procedure resembles that of iooi; if I encounter any difficulties, I just lock or unlock the vehicle.

Saw thus booked the vehicle in with him.

All issues have been resolved (at last).