OmahaKnot

It should be acceptable. I suspect the final digit is related to the month of manufacturing. When I search for part numbers, they typically consist of 8 digits comprised solely of numerals.

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If you are not the same individual from a few days before, please review the topic threads from earlier this week, when a dealership increased the price of a used vehicle by precisely £800 that another forum member had gone to inspect.

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I am aware that the individuals facilitating these events are not Kia employees, but rather a third-party events firm. The dealership's sales personnel should be well-informed about it. Should they fail to do so. They evidently do not adhere to Kia-related matters.

I will be unable to attend since I am on vacation.

I have received an invitation from my local dealer to the unveiling of the new EV4 and EV5 on August 20th.

I consistently use a brush for painting to avoid the need of covering the windows. I have not used Nikwax, hence I cannot provide an opinion.

The product is Fabsil Gold, manufactured by Grangers.

I own a 2017 Grand Sport VRS and want the left-hand front door card/trim panel in black, since the failure of the door lock necessitates its removal for repair, resulting in damage.

Failure of the Crankshaft Position Sensor may manifest these symptoms.

https://ownersmanual.kia.com/docview/webhelp/doc/72c71176-e721-4591-b8ea-4faef28f24ba/topics/t00890.html

The turbocharger is of a variable type, therefore eliminating the occurrence of a rapid power surge and ensuring a more linear power delivery. My former N57 330d did not display the issues you mention; thus, unless the power delivery in an X model differs owing to BMW mapping, I would assert that there is an issue with the VNT functioning.

Serviced at intervals of every 1000 miles? It likely incurred more expenses in oil than on fuel!😂 In response to your inquiry, no, it will not. You must first address the underlying issue causing the power problem. Any competent mapper will do diagnostics and refrain from mapping a vehicle with an underlying problem. The next step is to conduct a diagnostic scan using BMW-specific software. Considering the vehicle's age and usage, it has likely been used mostly in urban settings, leading me to predict potential issues such as stuck turbo vanes or a clogged EGR system.

I received the same stuff for $2000. I own a 2018 Model 3. Did you enquire if HW4 was accessible? Should I await the availability of HW4? Do you have any recommendations?

Thank you. I scheduled a service appointment, and they verified that they would update to HW3 as included in the $2,000 charge I paid. My previous appointment was scheduled for May 4, but I have been assigned an appointment for this Thursday. I like EAP despite its imperfections, and I anticipate enjoying the enhanced city street assistance from FSD v12.

I own a 2018 Model 3. I acquired the advanced autopilot feature at that time for around $5,000. I had been considering a Full Self-Driving update but was deterred by the cost-benefit analysis when the upgrade cost was $6,000 over the Enhanced Autopilot, totalling $12,000. I intended to subscribe, but the Tesla app said that a $1000 computer update was necessary. The computer version shown on my dashboard is 2.5; I believe this is a more advantageous choice than purchasing for $6,000. We are unlikely to retain this vehicle beyond the break-even point of around four years (99/month * 50 months = ~ $5000, plus the $1000 for the FSD computer update, totalling a purchase price of $6000). However, with today's announcement that FSD costs $8,000, the choice to upgrade to FSD is now $2,000. I choose to buy, taking into account that the price of the FSD computer was once $1000. Tesla no longer requires a computer update. It seems to me that they were deceiving me when I sought to subscribe. When I pay a one-time sum of $1000 for the membership, I am far more inclined to continue compared to a subscription priced at $99 per month without an upfront investment. I am enquiring if an FSD computer update is necessary or whether Tesla was attempting to deceive me.

Could the AUC sensor be defective?

I followed your instructions and the fan began operating. I am seeing the appearance of the following error codes on my AC unit: Carly E71E, E71F, and E734. I have already replaced the temperature control panel located in the central console. I would appreciate your insights.

Thank you, I will inform you tomorrow.

Thank you for your prompt reply. I have thoroughly verified the polarities prior to hot wiring, just for that purpose. The air conditioning unit is filled with refrigerant. However, there are still a few codes remaining. If I allow the engine to reach a temperature between 105 and 112 degrees Celsius, the cooling fans do not activate. Subsequently, I pass them across a heated wire via the relay in order to lower the temperature of the engine. I will test the thermostat tomorrow morning and inform you of the results. Thank you.

Greetings, I own a 2007 R56 Clubman Cooper S. The issue lies in the fact that the radiator fan is not functioning. Although this difficulty has been experienced by many individuals, I kindly request that you continue reading. Installed a replacement radiator fan. The issue persists with the fan not operating at either low or high speeds. Verified the functionality of both relays and confirmed that they are in proper working condition. Nevertheless, the control circuit for both the low and high-speed fans only registers a voltage of 11.2V. The fans are powered by a main voltage of 14.6 volts. I improvised a configuration of cables to enable me to do tests on the relays. There seems to be no negative effect, since the fan turns on when I connect a hot wire to the negative terminal of the battery. When I start the automobile from a chilly state and activate the air conditioning, the low-speed fan fails to engage. In addition, I have inspected all the fuses and confirmed that they are functioning properly. I removed the fuse/relay chamber located in the engine bay. I thoroughly inspected and cleaned it, but I could not identify any flaws or issues. Eliminated the obstructed ECU and thoroughly cleansed it using electrical cleaner. There is no progress or activity. I own two R53's and have successfully reconstructed both, indicating my proficiency in automotive mechanics. I am open to any recommendations.

I did not get the previous badge that was removed for stone chip repairs at the bodyshop, and I am uncertain about its condition prior to the repairs. The emblem is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part and its intended placement on the vehicle is visible. However, there seems to be a significant gap underneath the two holes on the car's body, which raises concerns about the lack of support for the lower portion of the badge.

I have affixed it and it seemed to engage, but with a little amount of looseness. Perhaps this is within the expected range of normalcy?