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Yes, I have replaced the headers on my friend's vehicle, along with a new header gasket. I also changed the right side catalytic converter since the noise was only coming from that side. However, this did not make any impact in resolving the issue. I had anticipated that the problem was related to the exhaust, headers, or catalytic converter, and I believed that replacing these components would resolve the issue. Unfortunately, it seems that the problem is more complex than first thought.

Is there anyone available?

If it is feasible, you may perceive a faint noise resembling an exhaust leakage, akin to a sharp rattle, when I lightly press the paddle. This sound becomes audible within the range of 1500 to 2000 rpms and ceases when I release the paddle. Despite disassembling and inspecting the intake, no issues were identified or resolved. I have thoroughly inspected the exhaust clamps and found no signs of any leaks. Additionally, I have examined and replaced the headers, including the header gasket. I have also inspected and replaced the catalytic converters with those from another vehicle. Despite these efforts, the sound persists. The sound is originating from the right bank and is audible on the driver's side (RHD).

Greetings, Presented below is another video that I have created:

The car model is C3. The vehicle in question is a 2012 C63 AMG with four doors and has been driven for a total of 73,000 km. I perceive a rattling or chattering noise, similar to that of an exhaust leakage or a diesel engine, whenever I slightly depress the accelerator pedal between 1500 and 2000 RPMs in higher ratios (4th or 5th gear), particularly when the vehicle is under load. Applying enough force to the automobile eliminates any occurrence of low RPM acceleration chatter. The constant sound emitted by this vehicle has become quite bothersome to the extent that it is the only thing I hear when driving.

The vehicle in question is a 2012 C63 AMG with four doors and has accumulated a mileage of 73,000 kilometres. I perceive a rattling or chattering noise, similar to that of an exhaust leak or a diesel engine, if I lightly touch the accelerator pedal between 1500 and 2000 RPMs in higher ratios such as 4th or 5th gear, particularly while the vehicle is under load. By exerting enough force on the automobile, I am able to eliminate any low rpm acceleration clatter. The incessant sound that emanates from this vehicle has become quite bothersome to the extent that it is the only thing I hear when driving.

I own a Kia Proceed with a 73 plate. I suspect that it lacks an internal sensor, since no alarm was triggered when I encountered a situation when I inadvertently locked myself inside the vehicle. Despite my attempts to unlock the doors by manipulating the handles, windows, and central locking system, I was unable.

I brought the key along, used it to lock the vehicle, thereby trapping my wife inside as she was unable to exit.

After exiting the vehicle, I inadvertently locked it without seeing that my wife was still inside. She attempted to unlock the door and touch the central locking button on the dashboard, but she remained trapped inside. Is this occurrence within the expected parameters or is it indicative of a malfunction? It seems to provide a potential hazard.

There are no problems or concerns in this situation.

Children, that is an example of how not to do a stud conversion. Undoubtedly perilous.

Inspect the fuses and measure the power outputs on the battery's distribution board.

Based on the above information, it seems that the CAS is not activating the automobile when the key is detected. What was the recorded voltage of the battery? Have you inspected the fuses?

Begin by checking the battery voltage and proceed accordingly.

Cleverco, you rock! When it's ready, I will inform you 👍👍.

Are they also able to acknowledge or allow individuals to withdraw out, etc., with the "flash"? Very much a three-in-one

I have placed an order for the items you suggested, Cleverco. Thank you! 😉 🤜🤛

Greetings, everyone. I would want to replace my headlights with LED bulbs, since the original ones performed poorly on my first drive on the motorway in rainy conditions. I have a few of questions: Are the low beam and high beam bulbs separate? If that is the case, then I suppose I would need a total of 4. Are both of these HB3 9005 LED bulbs? Does anybody have any recommendations for specific brands or links, or should I just choose for generic products available on Amazon or eBay? Thank you in advance

As Arkwright often expressed. You need to manipulate it somewhat. The system does not rely on sensing hands on the wheel, but rather on detecting movement of the wheel. 🫠

The reset button is located next to the volume knob and may be accessed via a pin hole. However, the warning lights should illuminate for a diagnostic check upon starting and thereafter turn off. Persisting on it might indicate battery malfunctions.

We live in a communist nation, both boys and females.However, we possess the freedom to act and make choices without constraint.

It is possible that you are correct. I purchased the vehicle from Cargiant on Wednesday, but it did not come with a logbook. As a result, I had to complete the V62 form on Thursday. It may take some time for the logbook to be updated accurately. I want to make a phone call tomorrow to inform them.

Regrettably, it occurred at the peak hours.

Thank you for the responses. This is my perspective. It seems to be a clear mistake. I will try to contact them tomorrow since I really do not want to get a parking charge notice.