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Does this indicate that the coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning, despite the vehicle seeming to register temperatures, or is there a relay that deactivates the fan at lower temperatures? The temperature sensor was replaced in 2021. Do the new models activate the fan at a lower temperature?

Operating the vehicle today to assess the temperature sensor. I saw it use the hidden menu diagnostics on the clock. Left the vehicle idle for around one hour and saw the temperature gradually rising. The temperature reached 103 degrees, and the fan activated. Temperature decreased to 71, and the fan remains operational. The vehicle was left idling, and the temperature began to rise again despite the fan operating. Upon reaching 90, I activated the heater at maximum capacity, and the temperature began to decrease. Returned to 68 degrees, and the fan remains operational. No coolant drops are visible, however the level was slightly reduced prior to my testing. The exhaust is unobstructed, with a little accumulation of water from idling. When I accelerate vigorously, I see a little water spray accompanied by white or grey smoke, which subsequently dissipates. Is this a defective temperature sensor or another component that regulates the fan's operation?

One is not obligated to honour a quotation till the commencement of the task, hence it is improbable that this is the explanation. Consider obtaining a second opinion.

I would consider the rear seat to be satisfactory for anyone up to around 6 feet in height, particularly if the vehicle is equipped with a sunroof. This is based on individuals that have been in my thoughts. I am 6 feet 4 inches tall, and my head is touching the ceiling in that area. If my vehicle were to be wrecked tomorrow, I would purchase a replacement. However, I am uncertain about purchasing another car after this one, since I want to keep it for around 7 years and cannot predict the advancements in automobile technology that may occur during that time.

It is possible that one of the pulleys has become stuck or immobile.

Over the course of the previous three days, I embarked on a journey from Leeds to Cobham in Surrey and then returned to Leeds. I made this journey in an E280cdi Sports Estate vehicle. Accompany oneself and a companion carrying many bags of personal possessions. I achieved an average fuel efficiency of little more than 41 miles per gallon while maintaining a consistent speed limit during my whole journey. Specifically, I travelled on the M1 and M25 highways in a southbound direction, and on the M25, M40, A43, and M1 highways in a northbound direction. The traffic was sparse. The era of enjoyable driving experiences is far from being ended!

Over the course of almost 9 years, I have driven a 2009 E280 cdi Sports Estate for a total distance of around 85,000 kilometres. It has been my reliable and cherished tool for work. A remarkable engine and a car loaded with advanced features. Abundant power and luxurious comfort. I have recently had to replace the tailboard struts, which was rather inconvenient but not too challenging after I became familiar with the task. I purchased it from Mercland with a mileage of 111,000. The current mileage of the vehicle is 195,000 km and it continues to operate well, just as it did when I first purchased it. Have a pleasurable experience!

Negative, the device has not undergone maintenance. I will examine the matter and see what actions may be taken. Thank you.

The problem is in the presence of several factors, and it is crucial to avoid using the incorrect fluid that might potentially damage your transfer case. Thank you.

I wholeheartedly agree with your viewpoint. It is not advisable to take such a costly risk.

An acquaintance of mine had the same problem. The application of new liquid resolved this problem. I want to begin the process by doing a fluid change and thereafter assess the outcome before proceeding further. Thank you

That is my current contemplation. This fluid from Comma has the potential to be effective, but there is also a possibility that it might cause damage to my transfer unit. I was hoping to find someone who has experience using this fluid on their transfer case and can provide a testimonial for its effectiveness.

Understood.

Evidently, this product seemed to be the correct one, but its low price made me sceptical, which is why I enquired. Thank you.

NOTE - I have inspected the transfer case actuator motor and it seems to be in proper working condition. The gears are undamaged and in excellent shape. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you

Greetings, individuals. Could someone kindly provide me with some advise, please? I own a 2004 E53 X5 with an automatic gearbox. The problem is in experiencing intermittent jolts when decelerating while driving. I have been informed that it may be necessary to replace the transfer case fluid due to the car's high mileage of 180,000. Displayed below is a photograph of the recommendation provided to me from my nearby automotive parts retailer. Can somebody provide a recommendation about the use of this fluid on my transfer case, or have I been deceived?

Replying to posts does not need 30 posts, it is only necessary for accessing private chat and the classifieds area. 👍

Apologies for my lack of knowledge, but could you please confirm if this is a CT4 or CT5? Regardless of the nature of the matter, congratulations!

The most prevalent problem with these vehicles is the fluid level, since they are very sensitive to it.

I had two sets of automobile keys for two different vehicles. 1 set of Helko and 1 set of iSpeed. I did not use any clips or double sided tape at any point. The effort required to immobilise them prevents their movement. I strive to be distinctive.

I have had no problems with the operation of the windows on my vx-line for around 5 years. Whenever I tried to raise the window on my old vehicle, if the deflector had shifted even slightly, it would activate the anti-trap sensor and cause the window to lower again. Subsequent recalibration of the deflector would suffice for a duration of many months.

I have purchased a pair of pre-owned locks from eBay and will provide an update to this page when I have installed the new lock. If the newly manufactured chinesium component was responsible for the problem, it posed a significant risk and serves as a cautionary tale about purchasing such components. Always choose either used components or the original parts from the manufacturer. Initially, I believed that purchasing a brand-new Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) lock was superior than acquiring a used one. However, it seems that this assumption was a novice error!

Apologies for my lack of knowledge on the ability to reference other websites. I acquired the replacement lock from an online marketplace called eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256093769514?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338774556&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595858X667812d1f5f13c559b0bf180b616426a

The tailboard of my F07 vehicle ceased to function, rendering it unable to open or shut. However, the voltage at the lock was still there. I purchased a new Chinese OEM replacement component for the tailboard boot lid lock latch mechanism from a reputable website for £70. The outcome was successful and everything has been going well for the previous several days. The tailboard functioned well, smoothly opening and closing. After visiting the stores, while returning home, the dashboard indicator said "Close Boot". Upon my arrival at home, I saw smoke emanating from the trunk, with the lock being dangerously close to catching fire and emitting intense heat. I disengaged the battery and extracted the lock. I have purchased a used lock for my car as a replacement. Is this lock just a defective Chinese original equipment manufacturer (OEM) product, or should I be investigating other potential causes?

There is no decrease in power, and you will not perceive any regeneration.