MamaKiddo

There is no smoke when I drive my ancient 3.0D, which has 200k miles on the odometer. After 90k miles, it's just run in, and changing the oil every 6-7k or 12 months will increase its performance by a factor of three or four.

I am not asserting anything, however it has been previously documented that some individuals have experienced problems with wires chafing against injector pipes. It is not uncommon for an injector to malfunction electronically, resulting in the symptoms you are experiencing.

Examine the condition of your injector wiring to ensure it is not frayed against any objects. Additionally, examine the resistance of your injector; I bet you will discover one that significantly deviates from the others.

A hairline fracture in the expansion tank may be present, becoming apparent only when the engine is heated; I experienced this issue with my E46.

Thank you for the information. Has all the fluid been depleted, and is the bleeding process straightforward?

I am quite apprehensive about driving. Are there any online manuals available for their replacement? I could not find anything on YouTube for the F30 or F31 models.

I suspected as much; is this how they typically begin to malfunction?

Issue with F31 2014 2.0d After a cold start, I drove to the end of the road, halted at an intersection, but the clutch pedal became loose and lacked pressure, preventing me from engaging any gear. I manually lifted the clutch pedal and promptly regained pressure, enabling me to shift gears and continue driving for approximately a mile as if no issues existed. I am somewhat concerned it may be permanent, but I hope it is really an isolated incident. Is anyone aware of what this issue might be, or has anyone experienced a similar situation that required repair? Thank you

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Both are commendable; nevertheless, the six-cylinder 430d is in a distinct category. Efficient, rapid, and only little less fuel-efficient. For me, the driving experience is far superior with the six-cylinder diesel engine. Salutations

You have made a valid point. I listen to Hearts 80's. I will switch to another station to determine whether this is not merely an isolated incident. I lack any of the other setups mentioned. I reached out to RGA Services in Nottingham, an Independent BMW Specialist, who informed me that they utilise authentic BMW Dealer software, granting them access to the latest software packages from BMW. The cost for this service is £150. An update will be provided for the entire vehicle. They are exceedingly helpful and address any enquiries. The official BMW dealer software requires time to download data files from the BMW server prior to installation, which may take anywhere from three hours to a full day, depending on internet speed and data size. They are occupied but will provide me with a reservation in November.

Greetings, everyone. Could someone assist with this matter? I possess a 2019 pre-LCI G20 320d. Occasionally, the radio experiences brief periods of silence lasting around 3 to 4 seconds, as if it has been muted or the volume has been reduced. Subsequently, it will restore volume, and shortly thereafter, the occurrence will repeat. I executed the iDrive reset by pressing the volume button until the display panel went blank; however, this did not rectify the issue. Any advice or remedy would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. I am presently operating on update 11/2022.31, while 11/2023.50 has been installed but remains unupdated.

Our neighbourhood store is excellent for procuring bread and milk in emergencies, but I would not want them to alter the suspension on an AMG. It seems that you might consider attending an other workshop. Where are you located, as a member may be able to suggest one nearby?

To connect to the battery, attach it directly to the positive terminal and the ground terminal; alternatively, you may connect the ground to the bolt of the bracket securing the battery, since it does not affect functionality whether it is connected there or to the ground terminal.

Unfamiliar with the 640d, but I presume the battery is located in the trunk and there are just jump points beneath the hood? If so, use a T50 to remove the nut for the positive connection; the negative will again be on the inner wing. I believe that a T50 is required for its removal.

Consult a dealer only if you want the appropriate ride height. Substituted only in pairs.

I am not opposed to updates; nevertheless, if I am satisfied with the operation, I believe that if it is not broken, there is no need to repair it.

since I comprehend it, if you update yourself, then they are complimentary. The satellite navigation system does not concern me, since I seldom use one, and when I do, I employ Android Auto.

Having utilized Windows 7 for five or six years without updates to observe the consequences—experiencing only a single issue, which was resolved with a patch for my security software—I am curious whether I have the option to disable updates entirely on my new HEV (2024).

This is a screenshot of the dashboard, and you may incorporate any desired sensors into it. I presume they have perused the list and incorporated it. If that specific sensor does not appear while scrolling, it is certainly unavailable to you; nonetheless, I had always assumed it would display all options and indicate "no data" for those not applicable. It is not a function; it merely displays sensor data.

Certainly, if a misfire occurs, the corresponding code would be recorded and then identified, similar to any other code, and shown during the faulty memory scan. I have never encountered a particular misfire function.

The low-pressure pump is an electronic device located in the tank, responsible for transferring fuel to the mechanical high-pressure pump affixed to the engine. It appears they are awaiting circuit diagrams. I lack confidence in a Ford dealer's ability to accurately diagnose the issue, as I question their possession of diagnostic equipment sufficient for a comprehensive analysis of a BMW.

Which type of gasoline pump is required, low pressure or high pressure? I would be apprehensive if the pressure is elevated, as it might introduce metal particles into the fuel system, necessitating extensive repairs to replace the entire fuel system, since garages typically prefer not to clean pipes and tanks. Injectors would be ineffective. If the low-pressure pump is not functioning, it is not a significant problem to procure and replace the karts.

That option is unavailable. Adhere to the dipstick, as Johnny asserts; it will not deceive. I fail to get the rationale of eliminating the dipstick, considering its expense.