Barringer

The issue is with the egr position codes. The DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics) system only accepts OEM/wahler codes and rejects any other codes. If adaptations are not reset, the DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics) might have a tantrum.

On the right side of the engine, there is a steel pipe that is linked to the exhaust manifold with a banjo connection. This pipe then goes up to a rubber hose where the pre-turbine pressure sensor is attached. Remove the sensor and test its ability to retain a vacuum using a manual vacuum pump. whether it is able to hold a vacuum, it indicates that there is a blockage. Alternatively, use WD40 and see whether it drains away. Inserting an old bicycle brake wire and rotating it with a cordless drill is often effective in removing blockages.

In my observation, it seems that the egr valve is defective rather than being stuck. Have you verified that the supply line to the pre-turbine pressure sensor is unobstructed and free from blockages?

I concur with the suggestion that the battery is a probable cause. However, if you would want an alternative recommendation, where do you store it while it is not being used?

Certain insurance companies provide a reduction in price when a tracker is connected via the OBD2 connection, although the benefits are not justified.

That is where I would invest my money.

The motor is excellent.

Hello @Cincoon, Was this issue ever resolved? I am experiencing the same problem with my AMG line A200 from July 2021, which has 17,000 miles on it. The dealer claims that the damage is due to stone chips and is not covered under warranty, however it is really a paint adhesion problem.

Could a poorly designed item potentially harm other components?

Thank you for replying. Appears to be a haphazard assembly of farm debris.

I will upload an audiovisual recording.

The audio quality is acceptable. The construction concerns me. If it fails, I can just get a better one.

I am on the verge of making a purchase offer on a 2017 R8 that comes equipped with an aftermarket exhaust system. The manufacturer is Carrera. I reside in Mexico, and the vendor claims that the exhaust is manufactured in the United States. However, I am unable to locate any information on this exhaust product. If it were Akro from Fabspeed, I wouldn't be doubting it, but I've never heard of this brand. Does anybody know?

Intense lighting might be especially problematic while driving on uneven roadways. I have tried using yellow night driving glasses, but they proved to be ineffective.

Does the 2012 pre facelift model seem to be costly? For a little higher price, you have the option to purchase a facelift model, which has a noticeably more updated appearance.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115294237211?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cBZi7LkPTfm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=6nBfwGmuRC6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xb10060afb459c933a172760def132f6a

Regarding the wiper blades for the R231 SL, I just purchased a set of these that were a perfect match, equipped with heating, and priced at a reasonable £70.

Indeed, I had contemplated pursuing a similar course of action. Please refrain from providing me any more encouragement.😄

Not entirely accurate, but quite close. I used a 76mm diameter version of this item, however I would certainly choose for a larger size if I were to repeat the process. Currently, I am experiencing persistent urges from my obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) to devise a method for aligning a bigger hole saw in the middle. However, I am currently fighting these urges.

I modified the scuttle panel by adding a rubber bung obtained from eBay to cover the brake fluid reservoir, allowing for easier access.

It is quite probable that this is the original filter. It is a challenging task, as you are aware, and Audi does not provide sufficient time for technicians to do it during a service, so they often neglect it.

To completely remove the glove box, you need to take out the felt trim piece, which is secured by many screws located beneath it. Regarding the sub, it does has studs and 3 nuts on the other side of the firewall. To reach them, it is necessary to remove the trim pieces located under the hood and in the front trunk. Once you have completed all the aforementioned tasks, I highly recommend replacing the cabin air filter. Since you have already gone through most of the necessary steps, it would be efficient to address this maintenance chore while everything is already disassembled.

Excuse me, but I have not done anything wrong.