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A w11, not a prince, is what you get when you take an 08 pavement (r52).

will include the following items that any competent person would perform automatically: 1, bleed system; 2, sniff tester will indicate whether there is CO in the header tank, which is a symptom of a head or gasket failure; third, make sure the water pump is operational 4, use live data to watch the temp rise so dont do more dmage, 5 oil pressure test, and pull inlet cap sensor out and check for grey sludge , ie sign of crank wear i have found, 6 check all pipe are on correct way around, 7 use coolant pressure tool to pressurise system with plugs out, 2bar leave over night any coolant in cylinders or sump its done, how i bleed these is open bleed screw on thermostat housing fill with coolant until just coolant flows out, i then put pressure tool on it and press

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Cooper+S&linkCode=gs3&tag=verticalscope-21

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Prince+engine&tag=vs-pl-mini2-com-20&rel=nofollow

I have a 2012 Cooper S outside that was severely overheated and will eventually post it here with crank damage from overheating and a badly cracked head. The engine is probably cracked, and I would assume the system is bled before condemning it. You may believe what you want; I just post what I discover online. I'll be posting that one in a few weeks. An indicator of trouble is low oil pressure and a lot of grey stuff at the sump's base.

Checking flow is as simple as glancing at the return to the tank; monitoring temperatures other symptom features is also a good idea. Other possible causes include a damaged head. I wouldn't automatically assume that, though; heads on them sometimes crack, and it's prevalent in other places with distinct symptoms. After confirming other things, you should potentially leak test the engine at various temperatures. It's not uncommon for automobiles to overheat during mot if the cooling fan isn't functioning properly. This problem might be misdiagnosed on occasion, especially when paired with flow concerns. put this bottom end injury out of your mind

Getting the car is definitely an option if you're hesitant to handle it yourself. He has connections with reliable transport firms that can also bring him the automobile.

Firstly, it might be helpful to consult someone who has experience with these engines. In my opinion, the cylinder head should be discarded first because these engines tend to crack when heated. Pressure testing is done when the engine is cold, not when it is hot, because the heat expands the cracks. I learned the hard way that skimming and testing the head was an ineffective method, and I would have priced the job as a refresh plus used cylinder head. Additionally, I would have taken extra precautions to avoid overheating the crankshaft and sump, checking for bearing damage caused by oil thinning out, etc. If you are stuck and want it fixed properly at a fraction of what most garages would charge, please send it my way.

There have been reports of unusual noises coming from the area around the intercooler, which is also where the water pump is located, according to the garage.

It seems that the cylinder head gasket was the culprit when my Cooper S Sidewalk May 25th overheated during the MOT and began leaking water from the header tank. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. No garage was willing to work with me since their prices were too high. Fall to Spring I had a hard time doing the head, but it seemed to have gone smoothly; the engine started, but it was harsh. I had to fix the slave cylinder since the clutch went when I was seated. Seized were the rear callipers; they were April 26th, scheduled maintenance appointment Unfortunately, the front left spring snapped before reaching the road. Finally lost since I don't have impact tools and had to have it collected (which took three weeks because the truck that was supposed to perform the collecting broke down). It has spent the entire day in the garage now.... Because the harsh flowing won't go away, water is being forced out of the header. Is there anything else that this sounds like? The garage is still going to look at it tomorrow, but other than "the head gasket swap didn't work" (it was all followed to the letter), is there anything else? If the water pump is pressurising the header, it can be because the coolant is obstructed. Is it possible that the tank cover is just not sealing? Is it possible that there are air leaks causing it to rev up at startup and run rough afterwards? Over the previous eight months, I've endured nothing but misery and wasted time trying to restore my beloved automobile. A broken spring prevented me from getting it to the shop in time, but I clung to the hope that I had salvaged my beloved vehicle by fixing it myself. Perhaps not now 😭😭😭😭 I would very appreciate (need) any recommendations.

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Poor overfueling caused by a terrible remap can lead to EGTT failure. These days, it seems like everyone provides remapping services, but very few of them are qualified. The fact that the module was bricked ought to have served as a huge red flag. Tuning very stressed engines is an entirely new animal; nevertheless, my vehicles have the egt's programmed out and I use gauge pods to monitor them.

Indeed, I see your point. Is it possible that a faulty remap or perhaps a compromised sensor is to blame for the high egt problem?

This occurred, and it was entirely avoidable because the EGT defect was disregarded. Your EGT is to blame since it would have dumped extra fuel into the dpf to raise its temperature because it believed the dpf was operating too cool for regeneration to take place. The dpf becomes overheated because of this. The white stuff you're seeing is really the result of the dpf physically incinerating the trash it contains when temperatures reach 800 degrees or above. This causes the trash to condense within the filter, which is now the source of your problem. While egts on gas-powered vehicles are usually not a big deal, on newer diesels, they can cause major problems.

MacG won the Derby at Barrow. By the time I finished the map, the ecu tune had gone well, however the tcu map had a problem. According to what I was told, they were able to remove the file but were unable to return it to the tcu. So it was inaccessible for three weeks. The gears have been functioning properly ever since they got it working again. The numbers on the sports display indicate more than 400 nm of torque, which wouldn't be there if it were stock.

whom did the remapping?

It turns out that even a DPF can experience a thermal overload, transforming them into a chalk-like substance. A forum sponsor named Jason used to get customers bringing in DPFs that had failed, and he said that all of those cases were due to customers doing high rev regenerations and cooking the DPF.

Yeah, I didn't see any dpf problem warning lights. A couple of months ago, I did have a code for excessive exhaust gas temperature. I simply drove it over without looking into it because I am not very vehicle smart.

One would have expected a notification in the event that the dpf was banned.

Hi, A drivetrain problem and white smoke from the exhaust were symptoms of a strong pull on the highway. There was what seemed like a large vacuum leak, a braided line that had popped off the side of the engine block, and white powder (presumably cat matrix) covering the exhaust. After having the stuck-open thermostat fixed (about 12 months ago), the temperature in the automobile returned to its usual range. I had the car remapped around seven months ago, and everything was running smoothly until the most recent breakdown. Could the remap hastened the dpf meltdown since it was already jammed from cold running before I got it? Any information or suggestions regarding this would be much appreciated! Much obliged.

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So far, I have not encountered any error codes, and I have not made any changes. At 200,000 km, I just want to perform routine maintenance by changing the oil.

Can you provide me with the oil wear code? Eliminating that particular section might be rather challenging.It's related to an issue I recently wrote about, albeit I can't remember how.

Great question! I'm not sure of any resets, but I'll be doing mine next week. Paying attention.

Greetings, everyone, After changing the oil in the transfer case, is it necessary to make an oil reset or adjustment? Formula 26 20d