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Here are a few pictures of the car; it is rather lovely. You can't refute the smooth ride, low center of gravity, and rapid cornering abilities—I still like my ML63, haha.

If you plan on keeping the car, I recommend removing and cleaning the intake manifolds, replacing the motor and swirl flap arms and getting the oil cooler seals done. A new turbo and actuator are likely next on the agenda. Once the turbo is removed, the manifolds may be removed in half the time. My best wishes.

Sure thing: - The EGR was dirty, but not completely clogged. I cleaned it anyhow and checked to see if it had any mobility. It does, and after I replaced it, it still didn't help. Even though someone else has previously modified the resistors, I decided to replace it because the connector looked a little oily and because I have 5w rated 4.7kohm resistors. I also taped it with high temperature silicone tape just in case. Regrettably, the issues remain; I am experiencing fuel cut incidents at random with the code 2616-02 and no EML during power outages. Does anyone have any suggestions on whether the actuator needs additional testing or if it should just be replaced?

My friend, Approximately six years ago, when my rear Sam was water damaged and I was scrambling to fix it because the Mrs was about to deliver birth any minute, you offered to assist me out; I hope you're doing well now. I believe that the Mercedes parts team ultimately demonstrated empathy and may have coded it because it was strangely described as "been taken out of its packaging but brand new and put back on the shelf" and didn't require any coding. Thank you, but I'm getting off topic. I'm waiting for the 4.7k ohm resistors to arrive from Amazon, and if they do, we'll move on to EGR instead of tinkering with the actuator. Over the past six years in the ML, I've managed to get by with an average of 12mpg, but as I was writing this, it hit me: the only time I look for an economy car is when something urgent demands it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=egr valve&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X45d831e69638775f1e9baa244f876446&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

The egr valve, turbo actuator, and swirl flap motor are all powered by the 5v supply circuit. The symptoms you mentioned could be caused by a malfunctioning component that is reducing the 5v supply. In my experience, each one has been flawed at some point. When testing resistors, swirl flap is a simple and fast alteration to use. Following that, I will examine the egr valve.

Hi there, We still have the ML63, but we're planning to do frequent 560 mile trips, so we figured it was time to get a mile muncher. So, we added a 2009 CLS 320CDI to our fleet. Someone I bought the car from mentioned that it can be a little of a stutter if you're not careful, but that it'll be alright if you're heavy-footed, haha. I knew I was getting a problematic kid since the price reflected that. Everything is fine. The issue: Once warmed up, the car isn't a fan of light footing; doing so causes it to jerk and hit fuel cut. However, you can feel it turning on, and with a reasonable amount of power, it blasts through without jerking. When it's warm, it despises light throttle. My accomplishments thus far: – After applying Stardas, I received code 2616-02. I viewed the live data and noticed that the b60 sensor reads approximately 1 bar at idle, which climbs when boost ramps up, as anticipated. This being said, I went ahead and replaced the sensor with a new one. Up until the car warmed up, it solved the problem... huh. - Checked the intake pipes for air, discovered a split in the MAF pipe at the turbo connection, sealed it with high-temperature silicone tape, and replaced the orange gasket that had chips. - After inspecting the actuator, I can confirm that it operates at 90% at idling and decreases as expected across the rpm range. The actuator appears to be operating as intended. Observed and verified using Stardas real-time data. Various other findings: I don't think the turbo blades ate the gasket because there is very little flexibility in the shaft and no traces of burnt gunk; nonetheless, the blades do exhibit wear and are far from flawless. I have 137k miles on my automobile. The vehicle still shows code 2616-02 and stutters under mild acceleration; it almost seems like it has stopped boosting correctly; it drives like a NA diesel; and only when you apply more throttle does it accelerate like a dream. I'm going to try connecting a 4.7k ohm resistor to the swirl flaps connector to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't work, I'll probably look at the actuator's electronics and physical gears. Apart from that, the car is in excellent shape; no other codes have come up, it pulls strongly and hesitates at full throttle. I can replace the matched actuator and turbo if necessary, but I'd rather check everything on my own first. Do you have any suggestions, fellow Mercs?

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Nope, all my cars have regular tires. A pump and a plug kit are always on hand; the former features a metal handle, making it more durable than its plastic counterpart, and retails for around twelve pounds. The one tire that was used on the automobile for three years didn't lose air pressure at all. I use the same kit in all of my cars.

I can confirm that I have found a ZF kit that includes the pan filter. I am anxious since I have never used an auto box before. The gearbox appears to be in good shape after I connected bimmerlink. Are regular tires available? Is there a spare wheel and can of muck in your bag?

With a service, the box should be OK (and perhaps with the new filter too). You can get by just fine with regular tires of the same sizes—no need for run-flats—if you go with a square arrangement.

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I just got my hands on a 530d F10, and it needs some work. Help! I'm new to BMWs and could use some pointers! I'll probably change the oil on the 8-speed automatic. Despite the fact that the mileage is 117,000. Right now, the gearbox isn't making any noise. I really hope I don't mess it up! Additionally, I'm thinking about switching to a square wheel setup and doing away with run flat tires. What do you think? A tremor of around 60 miles per hour is present right now. My guess is that it's a tire or wheel.

Do you know how to physically access the battery? I can't lock it with the fob remote, and the battery isn't even attached.

It will work perfectly if you detach the battery while the alarm is not turned on.

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Much obliged, Does it have a backup battery? I was wondering whether disconnecting the battery will affect the alarm. For the time being, I can use the key to lock the car manually. I'm scared about unplugging the battery because I just found it online. A backup battery is included into the alarm siren for BMW E82 1 Series vehicles that come with the factory-equipped Anti-Theft Alarm System. one, two If the primary battery of the car is disconnected or cut by a thief, this internal battery will activate the siren. I'm also considering purchasing one of these for use with the on-board diagnostics port in my vehicle.

Just turning it on for ten minutes won't do anything to restore the charge. If the charger is not available at the current location, I would recommend unplugging the battery before leaving it for a long time.

I am unable to drive until an issue with my medical licence renewal is rectified. When I couldn't drive, it was usually because of a dead battery. I began it every day and did my best to maintain it. When I finally received my driver's license, all I had to do was buy a new battery. I am unsure if I am able to use my ctek charger where I am. not at my residence In my opinion, the garage is not a viable choice. Lucky for us, we probably won't need the car to go about. Even while I can disconnect the negative cable, I don't think that's the best solution. I am only considering my options. 1, install a new battery and forget about it until you need it. I know it needs an AGM because of the start/stop functionality, so I'll start it every ten minutes. Thirdly, is there a backup battery in the alarm system that will activate in the event that the primary batteries die? Is this something I need to know if I want to physically lock the car without the alarm? (I remember my last vehicle making a beeping or whining sound if the battery was low) My knowledge of solar power chargers is limited to what I've read about online. DVLA has been really kind, however I'm devastated since I filed the application online with incorrect information because of an error. Hopefully, the revised form they are sending out will cure the mistake; nonetheless, the timing of its processing is crucial. Obviously, becoming a doctor requires more time. Shockingly, this has transpired once more. I had to wait almost a year for all of my medical exams to be completed because of a backlog after losing my licence during Covid-19.

A w11, not a prince, is what you get when you take an 08 pavement (r52).

will include the following items that any competent person would perform automatically: 1, bleed system; 2, sniff tester will indicate whether there is CO in the header tank, which is a symptom of a head or gasket failure; third, make sure the water pump is operational 4, use live data to watch the temp rise so dont do more dmage, 5 oil pressure test, and pull inlet cap sensor out and check for grey sludge , ie sign of crank wear i have found, 6 check all pipe are on correct way around, 7 use coolant pressure tool to pressurise system with plugs out, 2bar leave over night any coolant in cylinders or sump its done, how i bleed these is open bleed screw on thermostat housing fill with coolant until just coolant flows out, i then put pressure tool on it and press

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