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Contact them and inform them that you are tired of correspondence and have replaced the car's engine.

Agree with the decision to disregard. I have been receiving them for my 2007 E90 for years, and just last week did I receive another, despite having sold the car months ago.

They will not approve it unless they execute the recall. You must simply disregard the letters.

Greetings. Is it possible for a BMW-approved shop to only indicate that they have inspected my EGR cooler in order to cease the receipt of these recall notifications? My vehicle has undergone an EGR delete, and I wish to ensure that no actions are taken that could revert the software or any related modifications. I have delayed addressing this matter due to the aforementioned reasons, as well as my previous lack of proximity to an authorised garage and time constraints. Thank you in advance

Unless I have overlooked something, your initial post does not indicate any issues with the CTEK, thus I would advise against hastily replacing it. Nonetheless, the CS ONE is an excellent piece of equipment. The CS FREE can be utilised for in situ charging, similar to the MXS 5.0 and the ONE, but it also possesses the capability to jump-start vehicles without requiring access to a 240v power connection, so offering an additional practical function. It is important to note that the CS FREE employs a somewhat big plug, which may prevent the cover of a waterproof outdoor socket from fitting and sealing properly when connected. It is worth considering.

That is logical. I intend to replace the C-TEK after Christmas for precautionary reasons, considering the C-Tek CS model. foolproof charging.

No, it is engineered to charge while the battery remains in place.

Negative regarding the leap points. Thank you.

The low battery may have disturbed the Ghost. The Ghost is theoretically engineered to accommodate all anticipated vehicle voltage ranges, namely a minimum of 16V. The charger should not exceed 14.8V; yet, I have observed intelligent chargers reaching 15.4V when they determine that the battery requires desulfation. Notably, my charger’s product description does not address this issue at all. I reached out to the maker (Ring), and they informed me that it operates at a very low current and is safe. In summary, it is highly probable that the low voltage disturbed the Ghost.

Did you detach the battery from the vehicle during the charging process?

Did you utilise the battery terminals for charging?

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Salutations, Last Friday, I had to charge the car battery following a low 12V battery warning. I utilised my C-TEK MXS5.0, which I have owned for years without issues. I configured it to the appropriate mode (AGM) and left it to charge. I checked it Saturday morning to ensure everything was in order, observing all seven indicator lights illuminated, before disconnecting it from the charger. Yesterday, the ghost2 exhibited a temperamental outburst. After reviewing all the documentation, I resolved the issue, and she commenced functioning properly. My inquiry is whether my previous charger is damaged and whether this is typical. Is there a measure to prevent this occurrence? Thank you.

Indeed, you will experience fluid loss; nevertheless, it is rather simple to replenish it. Utilise either a pressure bleeder or allow gravity to facilitate the process, subsequently bleeding by traditional methods.

Thank you for the information. Has all the fluid been depleted, and is the bleeding process straightforward?

The vehicle must be elevated on a ramp or stands, as the slave cylinder is equipped with a bleed nipple. Two 13mm head nuts and a quick-release pipe. The master cylinder is located within the vehicle, adjacent to the clutch pedal, accompanied by many bolts, a push-fit hose, a quick-release pipe, and a clip at the pedal's end. Upon gaining access to them, the process is relatively self-evident.

I am quite apprehensive about driving. Are there any online manuals available for their replacement? I could not find anything on YouTube for the F30 or F31 models.

This typically indicates a problem in the clutch hydraulics rather than the clutch itself, frequently involving the slave cylinder, master cylinder, or the presence of air in the system. Repositioning the pedal and restoring its functionality aligns with that. I would not disregard it, as it may abruptly cease functioning entirely. It is advisable to have it examined before it results in your being stranded.

I suspected as much; is this how they typically begin to malfunction?

The master-slave configuration appears to be straightforward to modify in either direction.

Issue with F31 2014 2.0d After a cold start, I drove to the end of the road, halted at an intersection, but the clutch pedal became loose and lacked pressure, preventing me from engaging any gear. I manually lifted the clutch pedal and promptly regained pressure, enabling me to shift gears and continue driving for approximately a mile as if no issues existed. I am somewhat concerned it may be permanent, but I hope it is really an isolated incident. Is anyone aware of what this issue might be, or has anyone experienced a similar situation that required repair? Thank you

My personal favourite is the Z4. I cherished it during my childhood in my father's garage.

I purchased mine for half that amount earlier this year. Visit Mcoupe.com, where quality vehicles are available at reasonable prices. They require some camber adjustment and the rear end has to be addressed. They manage effectively with those tasks completed.

Several JDM Z4M imports merit consideration. I recently acquired a JDM E90 M3, with advantages include low taxation and a pristine undercarriage. Who would not desire a pristine undercarriage?