Kenjibb

Just discovered a German expert who is really partial to Porsche; I may drop by and introduce myself. Trusted German Auto Solutions for All Your Porsche Needs in Leicester and Rutland

I understand.Thank you, I will have a look. Per my post for newbies...Please share whatever information you have on reliable suppliers of parts, suggestions for wheel refurbishment, how-to guides, etc., because I am an amateur mechanic working on a project car in my driveway. No less so on an E91 / M47N2..320d. All is okay thus far with the excellent information obtained from this forum's thread expertise, Touch Noggin. Just in case I find up in a situation where my skills are inadequate, I was hoping someone could suggest a reliable independent BMW specialist in my area. Area of Rutland LE15. It would be most appropriate to start a new thread with that title, right?

Yes, I was only looking for some honest feedback because I needed an oil filter today and, out of curiosity, I decided to check out Halfords since I was parking near it. The stockrooms were too full of bikes, numberplates, and tents to have one in stock, but you can order a Bosch for £6.88 (including shipping) and pick it up the next day online. I spent £11.11 (excl. tax) at NAPA Auto Parts, the only store in the area. So, the pricing is fairly reasonable.

Hello, I was wondering if I was correct in assuming that Halfords sells genuine OEM parts for vintage BMWs. I have recently verified that all of the oil, filters, coolants, etc., conform to BMW OEM standards. Example of a coolant: G11/LC-87, developed to meet the specifications of earlier BMW models. Oil - Halfords 5W30 N9 commercial motor oil, developed to match BMW Longlife-04 standards You may match the oil filter to the OEM style of your BMW! I figured I'd use my trade card (I got one through my carpentry business) to get a discount on any near-by, off-the-shelf items, but what if they sell OEM parts? Should I use it? Please understand..While I appreciate doing what's right for the environment, I fail to see the value in shelling out exorbitant sums for name-brand items when there is such a fantastic substitute. Much like the Febi vs. BMW own case. Who has ideas?

If you aren't planning to retain the automobile for an extended period of time, I recommend checking into the "lease option'. In many cases, the lease option appears more appealing as compared to PCP when one simply looks at the whole cost. Leasing becomes an even more attractive alternative when you consider the unpredictable used-car pricing of electric vehicles, which are affected by the fast development of technology.

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Consider giving this some try?

If it's a small leak, I'd just watch it and fix it before the MOT.

Examine the pipework leading to the pre-turbine pressure sensor for obstructions, and also inspect the differential sensor pipework for blockages, in addition to reviewing live data for DPF pressures. To ascertain the functionality of the crank sensor, it is advisable to utilise an oscilloscope to verify signal production; nonetheless, it is likely operational, as the engine would cease to function in its absence. I presume it is a diesel engine. A tone wheel is located on the crank behind the flywheel, generating the crank signal; in diesel engines, the cam sensor is utilised for starting, while the crank signal assumes control once the engine is operational. Which equipment have you utilised for scanning?

I now believe I am mistaken on both counts.

Upon examining some of my old engine photographs, it appears that the issue may be located in the middle of the right-hand manifold, a few inches to the right of the fuel filter when viewed from the front of the engine.

On my previous E320 CDI, I believe it is located on or adjacent to the right-hand air filter box when viewed from the front of the vehicle.

Indeed, you will experience fluid loss; nevertheless, it is rather simple to replenish it. Utilise either a pressure bleeder or allow gravity to facilitate the process, subsequently bleeding by traditional methods.

The vehicle must be elevated on a ramp or stands, as the slave cylinder is equipped with a bleed nipple. Two 13mm head nuts and a quick-release pipe. The master cylinder is located within the vehicle, adjacent to the clutch pedal, accompanied by many bolts, a push-fit hose, a quick-release pipe, and a clip at the pedal's end. Upon gaining access to them, the process is relatively self-evident.

The master-slave configuration appears to be straightforward to modify in either direction.