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I removed the 10mm nut from the terminal clamp, reattached the connection, and then replaced the nut.

On my F36, the hardwire is connected to the positive terminal of the battery, while the negative is attached to the chassis in the boot. I connect the charger in the driveway once a week for about half a day; otherwise, due to my limited excursions, a new battery lasts just one year.

To connect to the battery, attach it directly to the positive terminal and the ground terminal; alternatively, you may connect the ground to the bolt of the bracket securing the battery, since it does not affect functionality whether it is connected there or to the ground terminal.

The issue is that the IBS is located at the negative terminal of the battery, necessitating a connection to an other grounding point. BMW recommends the terminals located in the engine compartment.

I have linked mine to the battery and have never had any issues. For eight years, I have connected the CTEK charger to one of my automobiles once a month during the weekend.

Thank you, the battery is located in the trunk. I will ascertain if I own a T50.

Unfamiliar with the 640d, but I presume the battery is located in the trunk and there are just jump points beneath the hood? If so, use a T50 to remove the nut for the positive connection; the negative will again be on the inner wing. I believe that a T50 is required for its removal.

Greetings, everyone. I own a Ctek 5.0 charger equipped with a new cable (CTEK 56-261) for hardwiring in the engine compartment near the battery terminals. Is there anybody who can provide guidance on their removal? Does it resemble hex in the center of the post? The vehicle is a 640D. Where should I attach the negative side, considering the cable is around 40 cm length for hardwiring? Thank you.

I have previously installed Bilstein springs and shock absorbers; they are an OEM supplier. However, as Olly and Kenny have indicated, the springs originally installed on your vehicle are customized for your specific car, considering the equipment that is either present or absent. This is why dealers reference the springs using the VIN. Historically, a 'points' system was employed to aggregate various options, assigning specific point values to equipment installed in vehicles, which subsequently determined the appropriate spring specifications. New, original springs are marked with colored paint to indicate their distinct spring rates tailored for individual automobiles. Aftermarket springs, such as those from Bilstein and similar brands, are generic replacements that match the quality of original components; nevertheless, they do not accommodate the many choices installed in different vehicles. To some extent, you can fine-tune the vehicle by utilizing various spring pads of differing thicknesses, denoted by the number of 'bumps' on their edges. However, this adjustment will only influence the static height of the car when stationary. While aftermarket springs can achieve the same height, differing spring rates may alter the vehicle's behavior under dynamic conditions; specifically, the new springs may exhibit greater or lesser stiffness compared to the originals, resulting in varying deflection under load. Additionally, the spring rates may not be linear, as extensive engineering can be applied to allow for comfort during minor deflections, while increased compression may lead to heightened stiffness. Certain springs are specifically engineered, and typically are, to be utilized in conjunction with compatible adjustable shock absorbers; therefore, instead of merely replacing a damaged spring, it is preferable to consider a complete set of springs, spring pads, and shock absorbers to maintain uniform spring performance on both sides of the axle and ensure optimal functionality of the vehicle. The use of distinct springs on the same axle may provide significant risks, since they might respond differently under strong braking or while turning in various directions. I cannot provide additional guidance; however, if you choose to pursue this option, consult the manufacturers' websites. Previously, I have installed aftermarket springs and shock absorbers on several of my vehicles, but I was replacing an entire set of old, corroded springs and worn shock absorbers, rather than merely a single broken spring. I was only replacing old components with new ones, not attempting to lower the vehicle or anything of that kind. While examining Bilstein, their website offers much information; nevertheless, you will be installing generic springs instead of custom ones specifically designed for your vehicle. It is recommended to install compatible shock absorbers that are intended to function in combination with your springs. Others may provide more guidance beyond my capacity. As previously mentioned, considering your statement that the two springs (or possibly just the one on the opposite side) on your vehicle were replaced approximately a year ago (regardless of whether they are front or rear, the same principle applies), and assuming they were authentic M-B springs procured from a dealer specifically for your vehicle; if one spring has failed for any reason (which can occur) and you are confident that the other spring is in perfect condition, you may be able to order just a single spring from the dealer using your VIN. I would refrain from installing an aftermarket spring on one side while retaining the original spring on the other side. Upon reviewing your message, it seems that you changed one spring last year, and now the other has malfunctioned. If such is the case, I would return to the same dealer to get an identical spring, matching the one installed last year.

The springs on your vehicle are calibrated specifically for it, based on the number and weight of extras installed during its manufacture. Numerous forum entries indicate that owners who have installed aftermarket springs often find their vehicles either too elevated or insufficiently lowered compared to the appropriate stance with OEM components. In response to your inquiry, they are indeed a respected company; nevertheless, for a little additional cost, I would recommend acquiring the appropriate components, particularly if you want to retain the vehicle. Have you inquired about a discount from the dealer? - Consider contacting MB Grangemouth, since it may be worthwhile.

Thank you everyone. I consulted a technician who informed me that Bilstein is a reputable company offering original equipment parts, available for around £40 shipped, compared to the dealer's pricing of £120 apiece. I would not mind earning 20-30% extra and obtaining an MB portion, but it is excessive. Notably, the Bilstein B3 37_172350 is pricier in retail stores; nevertheless, I discovered it available at their official branch or on autodoc.uk for around £30, excluding shipping charges. I researched extensively and found that Bilstein is regarded as a luxury brand, and sometimes, Mercedes-Benz sources components from them, rebranding and selling them. What are your opinions on autism? Is the firm reputable?

The original equipment manufacturer front springs on my C55 AMG were produced by Eibach. The firm refused to sell directly to me; I procured the items via MB, where the pricing was fair and I was assured of the exact components.

Consult a dealer only if you want the appropriate ride height. Substituted only in pairs.

The dealership will provide a single spring, tailored to the VIN of your vehicle and unique to the installed extras of your individual automobile. It is often advisable to replace the rubber pad concurrently, given the little expense, while you are already engaged in the task. As previously said, it is often advisable to replace springs in pairs; however, if the failed spring is relatively fresh and its malfunction is attributed to an incident such as traversing a pothole, and the other spring is still in satisfactory condition, you may choose to replace just the defective spring. If the defective spring is under one year old and you possess a receipt, you may file a warranty claim, provided it was not damaged due to a pothole or similar circumstances. Regarding aftermarket options, I recommend Bilstein or another respected brand; however, please note that they are more generic and do not serve as precise replacements for your original springs. Consequently, it would be advisable to get a pair, since they are sometimes supplied only in pairs.

The only source for the appropriate springs is the dealer; aftermarket springs are a "one size fits all" solution. Your springs are customized to your vehicle's specific choices, as indicated by the colored bands on the coils from the factory. Purchase the appropriate items in a set; failing to do so may incur long-term costs.

Typically, one should not replace a single spring, since they 'settle' with time, resulting in a consistently uneven stance of the vehicle. Consequently, they are marketed in pairs.

A Mercedes-Benz dealership.

Hello everyone, I am seeking a high-quality replacement for the front coil spring of my 2012 C-Class. Which company produces the most dependable springs, and where can I acquire one without the need of buying a pair? I discovered various options from Autodoc and similar websites, but they compel me to purchase them as a pair, but I just need one as the other was replaced a year ago. The component number is A2043211204. Best regards

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Have you not already started a discussion on this topic?

Asbestos has been prohibited in Australia since 2003; thus, it cannot be the cause.

The Australian variants may still include asbestos, although the European versions are prohibited from doing so. The new pads used in the E.U. induce excessive wear on the discs, necessitating more frequent disc replacement.

I own a 2016 2.0 CRDI manufactured in Korea and have now traveled 3400 kilometers. No discernible brake dust is present, and the brakes function well. No noise as delineated in your article. The Australian Kia models may vary from those manufactured in Slovakia.

For a new vehicle, I have never experienced the wheels being blackened with brake dust after a few weeks following a thorough wash. A rubbing sound may also be audible when braking, which seems to be typical with disc brakes.

Traveled the first 100 miles in my 1966 Sportage to our vacation. The car emerged slowly from the crossroads. On Upon arrival, the front offside brake was discovered to be binding, and the brake disc was scored. Odor of incinerating brake components. The local Kia dealership is willing to examine the vehicle; however, they are unable to schedule an appointment for three weeks as it was not purchased from them. Contacted RAC about "Safe to Drive." Upon returning home, my garage informed me that Kia was aware of certain braking issues. Confirmed safe for operation. Garage requested Kia for their "technical fix." Returned the vehicle for photographs of the issue to be sent to Kia. Return to the garage for the Kia mechanic to assess the issue. Did not appear. Replacing pads and discs in the garage all around. The Sportage has reengineered calipers with enlarged brake discs. The Kia Factory acknowledges the existence of many known concerns with the brakes on the Sportage. Symptoms may include screaming brake sounds, the car veering to one side, or ineffective braking. Certain defective brake pads damage the disk and exhibit uneven wear. Occasionally, certain vehicles throughout the UK exhibit the same issue. KX-2 134 horsepower Automatic