Mezuzzi

If it is a manual gearbox, get several pals to assist in bump starting it. You will ascertain if the engine operates.

Does not engage, indicating that when the key is turned: 1) There is no audible response from the starter, not even a click. a) Shift the vehicle into neutral and attempt to start again; the issue may be related to the safety switch. b) Ensure that your battery is completely charged, since sufficient amperage is required to activate the starting. The engine does not rotate despite a clicking sound; the starter solenoid is likely functioning properly. a) Ensure your battery is fully charged, as sufficient amperage is required to activate the starter. b) Inspect ground connections for corrosion and verify that all components are properly grounded. c) Attempt to manually rotate the engine using a breaker bar on the crankshaft or by turning the power steering pump while applying pressure to the belt to confirm that the engine is not seized. If it is a 1.8, the starter should be visible positioned on the side of the engine next to the gearbox, accessible from either under the vehicle or from under the hood. It is a tiny engine.

Fourteen days ago, I need assistance from AAA to jump-start my vehicle on a very frigid day with a temperature of 20 degrees Fahrenheit in my residential vicinity of New Jersey, which is in close proximity to New York City. Although my CX-30 is still relatively young, being less than 3 years old (29 months) after its purchase, it has already accumulated over 38,000 miles. Consequently, it is no longer covered by the basic warranty. To avoid repetition, I replaced it with a 650 CCA battery (not an AGM) from NAPA and personally installed it. The batteries in my previous automobiles, which I bought brand new, typically lasted between 4 and 7 years. The factory-installed battery, rated at 520 CCA, is significantly inadequate in terms of specs, particularly considering the increased power requirements of contemporary electronic devices, such as a manually fitted dash cam.

I was unaware of the little price difference between the advisory goods nowadays. When I made my purchase, the cost savings were substantial.

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8647300?cmpid=APP003

I purchased an item from Argos to avoid excessive expenditure on an item that I would only use seldom during the year. The functionality is flawless, however the cost has increased after my purchase. The product has a Velcro fastening system and adjustable speed settings.

May I enquire about the location in New York where you had your Paint Protection Film (PPF) installed? (And has it been successful for you?) Thank you much!

Regarding the new paint, what are the maintenance requirements? I would recommend using a paint protection film (PPF) when the paint has fully cured, rather than immediately.

No, that was a somewhat costly choice. Out of the 1001 available payment choices 😝 I choose not to include it. I am satisfied with the automatic dimming functionality.

In addition, it should be noted that the use of a decat or sports cat may lead to a low fuel mixture, resulting in excessive heat in the rings and valves. This can cause the stem seals to melt and the factory rings to lose their tensile strength over time.

The N14 Cooper S engine is known for a recurring problem of piston breakage on skirts number 3 or 4. This issue is typically accompanied by heavy smoke, a slight or significant misfire, and excessive blowby. When customers approach me for repairs, many of them request a quote for stem seal replacement, as they have been informed by their previous mechanics that this is the root cause. However, I decline to solely address the stem seals because, in most cases, the problem is a combination of faulty rings and stem seals. Therefore, it is more efficient to address all the potential issues while the engine is being worked on, including replacing the head bolts and head gasket. This approach ensures that the problem is fully resolved, preventing any further smoking issues. Consequently, my current recommendation is to refresh the engine and address all the potential issues at once to ensure a successful repair.

It seems that the engine requires an overhaul, including the replacement of the piston rings and stem seals. Additionally, it would be beneficial to consider replacing the turbo's CHRA (centre housing rotating assembly) while the engine is being worked on.

Titanium has a low weight, nevertheless, it undergoes a process of becoming fragile when subjected to high temperatures over extended periods. I have also been informed that, from an acoustic standpoint, they do not perform as well in comparison to stainless steel and Inconel. Inconel mitigates several limitations associated with titanium systems. Due to its exceptional strength, this alloy may be machined to achieve razor-thin wall thickness, resulting in reduced weight. Additionally, it exhibits superior heat resistance, resulting in enhanced durability. Presumably, it also sounds more pleasing? I don't know.

Greetings The control unit of a 208 does not need coding and may be easily installed by just plugging it in. If the automobile was not originally equipped with the mentioned feature and it was added later, then the car itself, rather than the control unit, would need coding. In this period of Mercedes-Benz vehicles, coding was primarily used to instruct the diagnostic system to search for and scan the control unit. I am almost certain that you have a defective wiring harness. If the object in question belonged to me, I would inspect the main plug located behind the bumpers for any signs of damage on each of the wiring harnesses. I would then apply contact cleaner generously to these areas. Additionally, attempt to decipher the codes by disconnecting each loom one at a time, carefully observing any variations in the behaviour of the display lights.

There was probably a shift at some point in 2010 MY between the older and newer TPMS. Reprogramming is necessary for the older devices, and AUTEL is highly recommended as an aftermarket alternative to avoid visiting the dealer.

034 Motorsports is one of our clients. Their behaviour has been manageable, although I am unaware of their pricing. It is important to consider that in addition to problematic firms, there are also problematic consumers.

Thank you - I am not interested in replacing the condenser until it is absolutely necessary! The air conditioning system is now functioning well. Currently, everything is in a satisfactory state, however I am seeing the booster heater problem, which I presume is not connected to the other issues. I will endeavour to capture higher quality photographs and videos in order to provide simpler identification and location recognition. I may disassemble the air intakes and the fan surround in order to have a more comprehensive view. It is ironic that you decided to reduce your automobile use to one vehicle in order to save on taxes and insurance, only to wind up spending that money on repairs due to the car being inactive. Although you made some effort to maintain it by moving it sometimes and using a trickle charger, it seems that these measures were insufficient.

Indeed, I do need the rear brake pipes to be attended to at some juncture as per the MOT. The fronts are satisfactory. I will attempt to use the wire brush, but I am concerned that it may penetrate through.

Thank you. The object vanishes when it enters the area in front or behind the grille, making it difficult to track. Therefore, I am seeking assistance here in case anybody else is familiar with this phenomenon.

Did you replace the air conditioning system in the W212? Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? Thank you!

The rear subframe seems to be in good condition with no noticeable defects. The car remained idle with little use for almost one year. There are no rusting pipes but this one. It is unclear how you were able to see the engine bay as I only shared close-up pictures. Does anybody possess any information on this pipe?

Could this be an AC pipe? (I am not optimistic)

While resolving one issue with my vehicle, I see the presence of another. Due to prolonged exposure to the elements, several components of the automobile, particularly the bolt heads, exhibit signs of rust. However, I also saw a corroded pipe or junction on the left side of the vehicle, located underneath the air intake and leading into the radiator, while standing in front of the car facing the engine. I have attempted to get some images, however it is quite challenging to shoot. Maybe I will attempt to capture some video footage. Has anybody replaced this pipe? How challenging is the task? The lower section, located after the connection to the silver component, is inserted into the radiator. The more corroded pipe extends towards the front of the automobile, positioned in front of the radiator, and its ultimate destination remains unclear to me. After driving, I have not seen any coolant loss or leakage in this region. Additionally, I am experiencing an issue with the electrical heater booster, which may or may not be connected to the previous problem. Thank you.

If I had to choose between these two options, and only had a choice of two years, I would definitely pick 2015 without hesitation.

The mileage on my 2012 V10 with the 6 speed manual is around 45,000 miles. It serves as my everyday vehicle while I am at home. Engaging the third gear has consistently proven to be rather challenging, and while it has never failed to engage, the shifter gives the impression of potential slippage. The technician has recommended replacing the clutch, which I will go with. However, I first began the process by changing the gearbox fluid. The magnet attached to the drain plug contains a significant amount of metallic material. It seems to be a process of rebuilding or replacing a gearbox. I have attempted to locate a replacement gearbox but have been unable. I have also had difficulties in locating a shop to repair the engine on my vehicle. I am located in the Phoenix Valley. Do you have any suggestions for a reliable and trustworthy company that can reconstruct this gearbox or a source where I can get a reconstructed one for replacement? Thank you in advance, everyone!