Lemmand

Additionally, what is the estimated duration for this repair? I am uncertain about the methodology for determining the estimated time required to replace a wheel hub. If it doesn't need a significant amount of time, I will likely take it to my independent mechanic to handle. I anticipate that this work will be very exasperating due to the absence of both an impact tool and an air hammer.

Essentially, the prior owner used the wrong lug nuts, resulting in every wheel bolt being totally stripped and irreparably damaged. As far as I know, the only solution to fix the damaged studs is to replace each complete wheel hub. The component number for the front hub is LR023978. The component number for the rear hub is LR012741. I will need to dismantle the whole suspension system in order to access these hubs. Therefore, I believe it is a suitable opportunity to renew the suspension components, as far as I am aware, they have never had maintenance. The mileage on my vehicle is 125,000, and it still has the air struts that were originally installed. I intend to substitute: The wheel hubs of all four wheels. All four air struts Replacement of all four brake pads and rotors What other items should I substitute while I am there? I presume that the necessary components for repair would include control arms, bushings, and tierod ends, among other related parts. As a novice in suspension, I find the many pieces to be somewhat perplexing. I expect this repair to be challenging for me, mostly due to the lack of available threads or information online on this task. The book states that I will need many specialised instruments, however, all of these items are now unavailable for purchase, and their collective cost amounts to almost $1000. Has anybody successfully finished this task and can suggest more affordable instruments that are effective for doing it?

Here is the resolution. LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/1300-lb-capacity-self-loading-positioning-wheel-dolly-64601.html

Undoubtedly, someone, at some point, will need an engine for one of these.

Obtaining a WBAC type quotation independently is a simple task, however it is probable that the price will be reduced to some extent throughout the evaluation process. The scrap value will be little. In my opinion, you would likely get the most value for it by creating a truthful advertisement as said before. Perhaps list it for a price range of £500-1000 and assess the response. Potential buyers can always submit offers, and you are aware of the minimum value based on quotations from scrap or WBAC.

Actually, the correct names for such models are EP6 1.6 VTi and 1.4 VTi. It is understandable to make such a mistake.

I assume that the end cap may have been installed incorrectly, as I have seen others making this error in the past. If this is really the case, you may consider acquiring a Peugeot or Citroen engine, since they are identical to the one in the Mini and tend to be more affordable. I have come across fully functioning vehicles being sold for as little as £300 due to either being out of MOT or having a broken gearbox.

Yes, it is indeed the same. The torque converter flywheel plate may be installed on any crankshaft. However, it is important to remember to place the timing ring on the end of the crankshaft before reattaching the flywheel. Failing to do so would require repeating the whole process.

Indeed, the sensors in question were original equipment manufacturer (OEM) Huf sensors. This set of wheels and sensors is new, whereas the others remain in the other wheels. I performed the installation without writing any code. I inserted them and let the system sufficient time to identify and acknowledge their presence. Covered a distance of less than 20 miles.

It is intriguing that after installing the replacement wheels, the issue was cleared in less than 20 kilometres. As far as I remember, there is no explicit programming on them.

Last month, I purchased a two-year insurance policy for my "C" class vehicle at a cost of £713.00.

I will be utterly astonished if it is not the hedgehog.

Update - The attempt to resolve the issue by bringing it to the Mercedes dealer was unsuccessful. On their first try, they imposed a diagnostic cost of £140 and informed me that they had updated the 'Software' to fix the air suspension problem, as well as the issue of the default units constantly resetting to kilometres. I was given a guarantee that both problems were unequivocally resolved by the software upgrade. With a sceptical mindset, I drove the vehicle away and made a brief stop at a store. However, upon returning, I saw that the suspension had failed. In addition, the units persistently default to km. :mad: I spoke with the service manager and he agreed to bring the vehicle in again for further diagnostic tests on both problems without any additional cost. Their recent diagnosis indicates that the reason for the suspension falling is indeed the recently acquired and installed air compressor. I questioned the reasoning for attributing this activity to the non-Mercedes dealer component, considering that the vehicle displayed the same behaviour even when equipped with the original factory-installed compressor. However, their explanation did not provide a satisfactory answer. I rejected the proposal to spend over £1k on replacing the fully functional (and just purchased!) compressor. Wouldn't the defective unit have difficulty lifting the vehicle upon starting if this was actually the case? Apparently not. In addition, they have determined that rectifying the problem with the default units will need a software upgrade costing £140. Me - Are you referring to the software update that you previously installed, which did not resolve the issue? Mercedes - No, sir. The recent upgrade was specifically for the suspension problem, and it included modifying the software. I am referring to the software update that failed to address the suspension problem and was also supposed to repair the issue with default units, but did not succeed. Mercedes - I'm sorry, but this is a separate software upgrade that will cost £140. I rejected their kind offer and chose to get the automobile myself. On a positive side, they are always polite and attentive. Additionally, I was pleasantly surprised to see that my vehicle had been meticulously cleaned and the tyres had been treated with a glossy substance. However, my satisfaction was short-lived as I opened the door and the metal sill plate fell to the ground. It seems that they used excessive force with a pressure washer on the sill, causing the removal of all the glue. It appears that they lack the ability to effectively and methodically diagnose a problem in order to identify the underlying cause of failure. Instead, they rely on the fact that their customer base primarily consists of corporations who prioritise quick problem resolution over the number of random parts that are replaced in the process. I am now searching for an autonomous Mercedes expert in the East Midlands region. Does anybody have firsthand experience with MB Centre in Nottingham?

For those who are interested, here is an update... The compressor and valve body have been replaced, nevertheless the issue of collapse persists. 😟 I have made an appointment with Mercedes Derby for them to identify the problem and provide me with a permanent solution.

I saw intermittent depressions in the rear suspension. This phenomenon may occur intermittently, sometimes happening overnight but not consistently every night. Alternatively, the scenario may include the engine being turned off, the tailboard being open, and a someone occupying the cargo area. Consistently, the automobile would elevate after the motor was ignited and it operated in a typical manner. I have taken my vehicle to the nearby garage several times for inspection, but unfortunately, the issue never occurs when it is being examined at the garage. Conventional! The user's text consists of the emoji "🤦🏻‍♂️". However, last week the situation deteriorated when I encountered the error notice attached while completing the school run. I scheduled an appointment for the automobile and conducted an inspection, during which I discovered that the 40A fuse had malfunctioned. Acquired a set of these and installed one, resulting in the elevation of the suspension and the restoration of the car's functionality... but only for a distance of around 4 miles, after which the fuse malfunctioned once again and the same error message reappeared. I have returned to the garage. As they are unable to locate any leaks, their only option is to replace the compressor. That is now the only alternative being considered... Unless another individual with expertise in this subject can provide an alternative? The compressor seems to be the sole component in the air suspension configuration that has the potential to cause the fuse to blow. Is the ingress of water into the compressor a potential reason for the 40A fuse to malfunction? Update - Observers have observed the presence of a valve located just beneath the NS headlight that is leaking air, indicating the existence of a mechanism that is instructing the flow of air. Presently, the intention is to replace both the valve and the compressor, since they are the cause of the blown fuses. I was previously under the impression that this valve was located near the back bumper, but to my astonishment, my colleagues informed me that it is really situated behind the headlamp.

An inquiry for the collective intelligence... The rear air suspension of my 2017 S213 220d Premium Plus is experiencing a malfunction. In January 2023, I was involved in a collision with a taxi that struck the back of my vehicle. Upon the scheduled collection of the automobile for insurance repairs, the air suspension had completely deflated, causing the vehicle to rest directly on the bump stops. This was an unprecedented occurrence prior to the rear-end collision. I informed the insurance company and they assured me that they would handle the matter. The automobile was returned with the tail end damage repaired and the suspension restored to its original condition... or so I believed.

Hello w4rlock. What are the warranty numbers for a brand new 2024 Lamborghini Tecnica with 0 miles?

Indeed, my answer would be affirmative. I own the ACARNAVI, but, I choose to evaluate the facelift radio. The post-facelift version offers improved resolution, contrast, and much quicker menu scrolling compared to the pre-facelift version.

Could you possibly provide more specific information?

Thank you for your reply! I lack experience with VCDS and have only using OBDEleven.It seems that I may need to seek the assistance of a more knowledgeable someone in VCDS to do the reprogramming task.

Seeking assistance from someone who can help- I bought a Gen 1.5 Facelift OEM radio unit to put in my Gen 1 Pre-Facelift. Prior to the replacement, the rear camera was functioning well on the previous unit. However, when connecting the new radio and engaging reverse gear, the screen briefly shifts to the rear camera display (which is blank) for a few seconds before returning to the original menu. The car has been in storage for the winter and I have not yet pulled it out or driven it. I am unsure whether doing so is necessary to remedy the problem. Thank you everyone

To begin, I would do a battery test by charging it for a few hours and observe any observable impact. Internal failure may occur abruptly, as I personally experienced.

I have perused the title of this discussion, omitted any intermediate content, and will just respond to the last sentence/question. Indeed.

Concurred. It is advisable to do necessary tasks or tasks that are likely to be required while you are already at that location.

Purchasing a well-maintained 15-year-old CLS will not result in ongoing costly repairs; get it evaluated by a local independent mechanic. If your mileage is modest, you will likely see little depreciation. The cost of maintenance is unlikely to exceed that of your existing warranty, which may not cover all potential issues. I would be more worried about the dependability of your recent diesel vehicle in the next years, particularly if you want to use it for short trips. In 3-5 years, as the transition to electric vehicles and petrol hybrids gains momentum, the present diesel generation with its intricate and costly pollution control systems will likely become unwanted. I agree with you. A high-performance petrol car priced at 219 with extra money to pay off the mortgage is a more advantageous option in my opinion.